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Big Loss for Quilting:
UNL Shuts Down Textile Dept.
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The board of regents at the University of Nebraska at Lincoln voted on Friday, December 5 to shut down four academic departments including the Textiles, Merchandising and Fashion Design department (TMFD). The moves were part of a $27 million cost-saving plan the chancellor said was desperately needed to plug a budget deficit.
TMFD-trained people have gone into such careers as clothing design and retail management, but some of its courses focused on quilts. It was one of only a few schools in the country where students could earn a textile-focused graduate degree and only TMFD offered a professional certificate in quilt studies. People who came out of those quilt-focused programs have gone on to become quilt appraisers, historians and curators, some of them quite prominent (more on that later). Part of the attraction was studying on the same campus as the prestigious International Quilt Museum, which boasts the largest publicly owned quilt collection in the country.
Indeed, the museum was actually born within the Textile Department at UNL inside what was then called the Home Economics Building. In 1997, Ardis and Robert James donated nearly 1,000 quilts then worth $6 million to found an organization dubbed the International Quilt Museum and Study Center. The museum moved to its current building in 2008, where it now houses a collection of nearly 9,000 quilts from 65 countries. Over the years, it continued working closely with the textile department: its graduates have held some of the top roles, including the director and the head of collections.
To be sure, colleges are struggling all over the country partly due to demographic trends. Budgets have been slashed, professors fired and some colleges have closed their doors entirely. For context, here's an article in Forbes about this national financial crisis.
UNL seems to be in better shape than many but as with many state colleges, its financial support from state government has fallen considerably. In 1990, the university got 34% of its budget from the state and this year, only 19% of its budget was covered. Enrollment was a little squishy even before the pandemic, but it increased in 2024 for the first year since 2017, bringing the student body to nearly 24,000.
However, chancellor Rodney Bennett said UNL's budget was in the red and smaller actions like retirement buyouts for 70 tenured professors weren't making enough of a difference. The administration announced in September that it would eliminate six "underperforming" departments. There were efforts to protest these cuts and the chancellor took two departments off the chopping block. But the textile and fashion department remained a target for closure. More than 50 professors in all will now lose their jobs from the four departments, including 11 at TMFD.
On December 4, a sociology professor at UNL, Regina Werum, weighed in with an op ed piece in the local Nebraska Examiner, begging the regents to take a step back and reconsider. These are her arguments.
At the six-hour Board of Regents meeting on December 5, 110 people spoke in defense of the four programs including professors, students and staff. Multiple presenters said UNL's math was just plain wrong, including professors from the about-to-be-axed Statistics Department. A speaker on behalf of the Textile department insisted it makes more money for the university in tuition, grants and other inputs than it costs to run. There had been some small amount of hope that the board of regents would balk. That's because when the Faculty Senate met last month to consider the budget proposal, an overwhelming majority delivered a "No Confidence" vote on the chancellor. This marked the first no-confidence vote in the 157-year history of the university. But the regents approved the cuts anyway.
People in the hearing room were openly weeping about the decision. Just two days before, faculty and students had staged a "jazz funeral," mourning the cuts by parading around campus carrying four black coffins bearing the names of the targeted departments, as a brass band played. Here is a link to a local TV station's report on the meeting, complete with crying students.
WHY THE LOSS OF THE TEXTILE PROGRAM IS DEVASTATING
I've seen plaintive social media posts from other students affected by the cuts including a young woman who has always wanted to be a meteorologist (Earth and Atmosphere Sciences). But for the sake of my audience, I'm only going to focus on the textile and fashion department and what this means for graduates and why it's loss will ripple out from them to all of us who care about quilts.
Anneliese Johnson graduated from the textile department in 2010 with a degree in textile and apparel design. She's been going to quilt shows since she was 6 years old and loved the chance to work with quilts in college: when the quilt museum was still located in the Home Ec building, she was trained as a quilt tour guide. Even before graduating, Anneliese started a quilt pattern business with her mother Brenda Reid called Eye Candy Quilts. She has designed more than 50 quilts, some of which were published in magazines, has been a fabric designer and a teacher. She also does digital marketing in the quilt world, mostly for quilt shops.
When Anneliese, who lives in Lincoln, heard of the proposed cuts, she was furious and started posting videos on Instagram explaining why the department and its ties to the museum were vital and how to protest the cuts. TMFD's programs include both design and textile science, and she argued "Textile science is a very prestigious department and one of the few in the country doing that kind of work. Dr. Yang there continues to get new patents in things like biofibers and is now developing ways to turn agricultural waste into textiles." When I tracked her down for an interview, she seemed especially distraught about the loss of a connection between the quilt museum and the textile department. "That museum has the largest publicly held collection of quilts in the whole country. It is a built thing. Why are we abandoning the academics that support this national facility?"
Quilter Jill Soens Gordon was a history and science teacher for many years. When she left that profession she literally Googled "how to make money by quilting." This was how she discovered there was a quilt studies certificate offered by UNL and she could also study to become a quilt appraiser through the American Quilter's Society. She was told she would "be a better appraiser if take the certification program." She began taking courses in the textile department virtually in the spring of 2019 and expects to graduate in May.
"I think this decision is just devastating," she told me. "This program changed everything for me. It got me on a track where I could see the possibility of doing something productive that I loved." Even as a student studying remotely from Illinois, Jill felt very connected to the school, her professors and the museum, getting opportunities she never imagined. She remembers in 2021 when the International Quilt Museum was preparing to mount a major exhibition of important Amish quilts, "they had us students work with the curators on some of the writing, including the signage that would go on the walls for the exhibition. That was a tremendous experience."
One of the most prominent experts to go through this department is Nancy Bavor, who went on to become a quilt appraiser and director of the San Jose Museum of Quilts & Textiles. Currently, Nancy is president of the board of the American Quilt Studies Group, a nonprofit concerned with quilt history that is also located in Lincoln, Nebraska. At the age of 47, Nancy began a masters program in the history of textiles through TMFD, with an emphasis on quilt studies. At the time, there was a hybrid program available where students could complete this degree by spending one semester on campus. Nancy lives in California and completed her other studies from there.
"As I look at the impact the graduates of this program have had on the professionalism of quilt studies, it has been really remarkable," Nancy told me. "An academic background really adds clout. For me, going through the program gave me the tools, the confidence and the connections to do what I always wanted to do, become a curator of textiles, specifically quilts."
The University of Delaware is one of the only other universities where quilts can be studied as part of a material culture degree, and that program is affiliated with the prestigious Winterthur Museum in the state. But the Delaware degree program "isn't as narrowly focused on quilts," Nancy said. "Besides, in Lincoln, the largest quilt museum in the country is across the street from the textile department. That isn't the case with Winterthur." (The university is based in Wilmington, Delaware, about 10 miles away from the museum.)
Nancy was one of many who wrote heartfelt letters to the UNL administration to nix the planned cut. She wrote: "Before eliminating this small but mighty department, please consider the ripple effect and the significant impact TMFD graduates have on the broader textile and fashion worlds. PLEASE SAVE TMFD!"
"A STORY LIKE MINE WON'T BE POSSIBLE"
Another prominent person whose masters from TMFD propelled her into a significant career is Janneken Smucker, now a professor of history at West Chester University in Pennsylvania. When Janneken started in 2001, she was the first graduate assistant in the brand new program.
"I learned how to look at fibers under a microscope and how to identify quilts. I curated an exhibition and by the middle of my second year, I had a book deal for a book about Amish crib quilts," she said. "It was life changing and it has given me so many opportunities. I can't believe I get paid now to research and write about quilts as a career."
But Janneken is saddened that others will no longer will be able to follow in her footsteps. "A story like mine won't be possible anymore," she said.
Patricia Crews was a long time faculty member in the Textile department before becoming the first director of the quilt museum. When I reached out to her recently, she called the imminent closure of the department "heart-breaking."
In a letter to the university committee that proposed eliminating her old department, Pat wrote in October, "The TMFD Department is a vital academic unit that complements and supports the mission of the International Quilt Museum. The presence of the TMFD Department was one of the most persuasive arguments offered to the State Coordinating Commission when seeking approval for operating and management funds for the museum building on the UNL campus."
Pat went on to describe a synergy between the academic department and the museum "which expands teaching, research, internship and outreach opportunities for students and faculty." And she closed by noting that the department's "faculty and alums have brought national recognition and distinction" to the university.
WILL THIS AFFECT THE INTERNATIONAL QUILT MUSEUM?
Michael James is a pioneering art quilter who was deeply involved in the museum's beginnings. One of the rare quilters to have two quilts chosen for a selection of "the best 100 quilts of the 20th century," he became a professor in the textile department in 2000 and headed the department for 15 years. He retired from the university 6 years ago. In an interview, he acknowledged that the size of the student body has fallen in recent years to about 75, down from 237 when he led TMFD. He said part of the problem was national demographics and part of it is that especially in recent years, parents have balked at funding a degree they fear won't be a lucrative one for their kids.
Michael has been outspoken in his objection to this move. In an opinion piece for the Lincoln Journal Star in late November, he argued:
"The elimination of TMFD is not simply the closure of an academic department. It represents the loss of Nebraska’s only academic home for textile and fashion education, material culture studies, and quilt scholarship. It removes the intellectual roots of one of the state’s most recognized cultural institutions. At a time when Nebraska’s leaders say they want to retain talent and strengthen creative industries, this decision moves the state in the opposite direction.
Nebraskans deserve to understand what is being lost and why it matters."
Now that the vote has happened and there is no way of reversing it, Michael reported to me that "Personnel in the affected departments are basically in mourning and the grief is palpable. Personally, I'm heartbroken over it all, and angry...It feels like an enormous betrayal, a word many people are using."
What happens next? The college has promised that current students in all four departments will be assigned advisors to help them finish their degrees.
No one from the administration has said anything yet about what will happen to a collection of historic textiles and costumes owned and housed in the textile department. There are more than 3,500 items in the collection.
But Michael James has a bigger fear: in 2019, the International Quilt Museum and its staff stopped reporting to TMFD leadership and IQM was moved under the direct control of the chancellor's office. Now that there is no longer any academic tether to the campus, Michael worries that someday the administration might lose interest in continuing to fund and run the museum.
The museum's current director Leslie Levy is adamant that IQM is strongly supported by the university and not in any danger.
"It's not easy to learn of the closing of a department that played such a foundational role in the International Quilt Museum's earliest history," she said. "Although the International Quilt Museum hasn't been a part of TMFD for 6 years, we do share an important and meaningful legacy - its professors and graduates are among our valued colleagues, board members, donors and ambassadors. At the same time, it's important to emphasize that the IQM continues to grow and thrive. Each year, we continue to welcome visitors from all 50 states and around the world and we actively collaborate with campus partners across UNL and across disciplines. The University's decisions regarding departmental changes are not a reflection on the museum. As an accredited academic museum we continue to curate diverse exhibitions, offer a wide range of public programs, conduct rigorous research and publish. This is possible through strong private support and the full aegis of the University."
I'll close with this observation. I'm not terribly worried about the people studying in the statistics and meteorology departments in terms of finding relevant college programs elsewhere. But where else can people study quilts in these ways? I'm a little heartbroken too.
My optimistic side hopes for multiple possible reactions to this loss. One would be for the International Quilt Museum to create new ways of embracing, encouraging and presenting quilt scholarship. I'm also rooting for other academic institutions or nonprofits to fill in the gap in whatever ways they possibly can, whether through degree programs or something more like the professional certificate in quilting UNL has offered. Quilt history lovers and scholars are going to need some new patrons, defenders and institutions so that this work continues and these quilt stories continue to be valued.
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