CHANDERNNAGAR
Early History of Chandernagor
The importance of Chandernagor in pre-colonial history lies in its strategic location on the river
Saraswati. What is now a narrow stream was a swift river in mid-16th century and was a
preferred route by colonial traders. The French received a firman from Emperor Aurangzeb in
1688 and established Fort d’Orleans at Chandernagore, which was later razed to the ground by
the British. Chandernagore passed from the French to the British and back again until it became
a part of the Indian Republic in 1952.
The French Settlement
Chandernagor, locally called Chandannagar, is believed to have
acquired its name from the word Chandra or the moon due to its
geographical location on the river Bhagirathi where the river turns like
a crescent moon. There are other opinions too on the origin of the
name.
Chandannagar grew up during the French regime covering mainly
three villages – Borokishanpur, Khalisani and Gondalpara. It is famous for its handloom
products. Hindus of different castes, Muslims, Europeans and Armenians inhabited it.
Arrival of the French
The first French settler in Chandernagor was Duplessis who first landed here in 1673. He built a
warehouse and stayed up to 1676 but could not prosper. Then the first French factory came up
at Gourhati in 1688. Chandernagar was occupied in 1690 but officially founded only on 23rd
January 1693 through a fireman of Ibrahim Khan the Mughal Governor of Bengal. It authorized
the French to settle their open loges (warehouses) wherever necessary in the kingdom of Bengal
and Orissa and province of Bihar. The Loges of Chandernagar with its round baroque pediment
in early Louis XV style was probably the first monumental building of the French in India.
In 1701 Chandernagar was made subordinate to Pondicherry. But little was done in the trade
either by French or by the Danes, who shared the French settlement up to 1755. But by 1744,
Chandernagar had risen to highest pitch of prosperity and was a greater centre of trade than
Kolkata.
Dupleix and rapid Urbanisation
Joseph Francois Dupleix was the son of the Director of the French
Company of the Indies. He first went on a voyage to India in 1714 at
the age of 17. On his return to France he was appointed Second in
Council at Pondicherry in 1720. The process of urbanization
accelerated in the early years of the 18th century under Dupleix.
During the tenure of Duplex from 1731 to 1741 French trade
developed enormously in Bengal. Chandannagar continued as the commercial centre but
completely banking on the local businessmen.
Mimic French Revolution on Hooghly
In 1789 the great French Revolution took place and its effects gradually spread to the French
settlements in India. The Traite de cession was signed in Paris in 1951 and the "transfert de jure"
took place on 9 June 1951. Chandernagor thus got its independence earlier than the four other
French settlements in India. The territory was merged with West Bengal.
French English War
When the city of Madras capitulated to the French in 1746, Dupleix
opposed the restoration of the town to the British, thus violating the
treaty signed by La Bourdonnais. The conflicts between the French
and the British in India continued till 1754 when the French
government anxious to make peace sent a special commissioner to
India.
The Battle of Chandernagor
Nawab Siraj snatched Calcutta from the hands of the English on June 20 in 1756. The English
were then busy lessening the French suzerainty in the Deccan.
The English again snatched Calcutta from the Nawab on January 2, 1757. The English
understood that in case of the French joining the Nawab, the reversal of fortune for the English
was inevitable. The English plundered Hooghly to terrorise the French and the Nawab. Renault,
the French Commander saw through the devilry of the English. The fall of Chandarnagar would
mean the fall of Nawab Siraj-ud-Daulah which simply would mean the conquest of Bengal by
the English. On March 9, 1757, Clive's army of marauders came to the north of Belur. Clive's
army set up their tents at Serampur on March 9. Shrewd Clive did not make haste. He was
waiting for Watson. The naval might of Watson and the land power
of Clive – these influenced the plan of Chandernagor battle.
Armstrong and 150 soldiers joined Clive's tent on March 11. On
March 23, 1757, the Fort of Orleans fell at 4 pm and Renault
surrendered.
Chandernagor never recovered from its destructions in 1757. In 1812 a new and lovely residence
was constructed for the Administrator General. This imposing, yet gracious building is today the
Institute de Chandernagor and is under west Bengal government.
Chadernagar in Early 20th Century
The city was administered by a council, consisting of a governor-
director and 5 members, besides 115 traders, 2 doctors, 1 artisan, 2
clergymen and 103 soldiers of whom 20 were Indians. In 1909 there
were 2000 brick-built houses and a population of 26,831. The
European area had a convent, the fort, the river-port, the residence of
the governor, the Thistle Hotel, the church of St Louis built in 1726, a
beautiful palace at Gourhati and a strand along the river.
Modern Chandernagor
Modern Chandernagor is a very neat and well-kept little town as far as the European quarter
goes. There is a fine promenade or strand along the riverbank, on the landward side of which
stand the chief buildings of the town, the residence of the administrator, the Convent, the Jail,
the Church of St Louis built in 1726. The strand was known as the Quai Dupleix.
French Colony - Chandannagar
Remnants of colonial times still linger in Chandernagore, in the pastel facades of buildings like the Saint Joseph’s
Convent, and the toots of cycle rickshaws.
Chandannagar Museum
The museum and French language school are housed in
Dupleix House, a handsome cream-coloured building, once the
home of the French Governor. Owing to its French influences
during the many years of French rule, this beautiful museum
houses numerous French and British artifacts from the colonial
rule. The museum contains displays regarding the local history
of Chandannagar, including the archaeological discoveries in
the district since the Gupta period. This is a must visit place for
tourists and history buffs.
Few steps ahead is a distinct red building- the French Fort which is now the court.
The Sacred Heart Church
Along the promenade, almost 50 meters from there is a landmark church – Sacred Heart of Jesus
Church.. Though the walls in the front had peeled to reveal a bare brown with bits of plaster
sticking on like scabs, this is a living, thriving place. Inside, under the tall ceiling, are beautiful
stained-glass windows, the colours glowing bright red, blue, and yellow.
The centuries-old Sacred Heart Church has a statue of Mother Theresa as a saint ; Chandernagore is famous for
sweets like baked ras malai. Another famous sweet is the Jolbhora Sandesh of Surjya Kumar Modak sweet shop.
A statue of St. Peter with a rooster at the entrance, a restored grave, altar lights which had been
brought from France, just like the bell that still tolls three times a day to call the faithful to
prayer. The church was built in the late 19th century to provide spiritual solace to French traders.
KMDA Park
Chandan Nagar also has a lot of picnic spots to offer. But the
most popular and biggest one is the KMDA Park. Built over a
sprawling 33-acre piece of land, the place offers dozens of
picnic spots. With many exciting rides for children and a
boating complex, this place attracts many tourists.
Nandadulal Temple
The beautifully sculpted temple was built back in 1740. One of
the few temples in the area, the walls are covered with idols and
carvings. This significant icon in the city is indeed a must place
to visit.
The Chandannagar Strand
The Chandannagar strand is the most important and popular
pathway in all of Chandan Nagar. The strand is built along the
Ganges river, lined with trees and lights.
The Patal Bari
Another very unique and yet equally beautiful offering by
Chandan Nagar, the Patal Bari literally means the underground
house. Its lowest floor is submerged in the River Ganga. The
Nobel laureate Rabindranath Tagore frequently visited the place
and appreciated a lot about the building. This interesting place
with a lot of historic significance is indeed a must visit in
Chandan nagar.
Other attractions
Scattered across the city are various architectural marvel. One such house is that of Neline Mondal
and Ujjal Mondal called the Mondal Bari. A 300 year old palatial house which is almost in a
shambles now. Neline who is from Belgium came to India to complete some project and then
never went back, and married a local, the son from the Mondal family. The house sees some 85
rooms out of which only a few are open. The house is a storehouse of various artifacts one of
them being a huge glass mirror brought all the way via the water route from Belgium. Beautiful
carved wooden furniture from the 18th century and fine paintings similar to ones seen at Napoleon
Bonaparte’s Mansion located on the Rue Saint-Charles in Ajaccio on the French island of Corsica
are must-see items here.
In February 2019, the West Bengal government and France signed the memorandum of
understanding, with an active engagement of the French Consulate in Kolkata, to restore heritage
structures in the erstwhile French colony most of which are growing fern and moss from their
near-dilapidated and cracked remains.
