Department of Textile Technology

REPORT ON
INDUSTRIAL TRAINING
Course Code :Tex- 500
Duration: From 25th April to 25th June 2010

DALAS FASHION LTD.

East Chandra, Shafipur, Kalaiakor, Gazipur.
Bangladesh.

Md. Ershad Khan

Lecturer, DTT, AUST

S.N. Roll No. Name

[Link] Islam
01. [Link]

02. [Link] [Link] hossain

4TH Year 2ND Semester, 13th Batch

Session : Fall 2009
 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
At first, we would like to remember the almighty Allah to give our the
capacity to continue and complete the Internship program.

We convey our deepest thanks to Prof. Dr. Mustafizur Rahman, Head, DTT
for his strong guidance.

We express our heartiest thanks to. A.S.M Atiquzzaman,

Atiquzzaman Asst. Professor,
DTT whose valuable suggestions, constructive criticisms and comments
helps to prepare myself for the long run.

We are very grateful and deeply indebted to our respected supervising

teacher Md. Ershad Khan, lecturer, DTT for his continuous support,
encouragement, suggestion, guidance and a special thanks to our project
supervisor and honorable teacher Mohammad Mahbubul Alam, Alam Assistant
Professor, DTT for his logical guidelines, constant inspirations, necessary
instructions and proper supervision.

We express our heartfelt gratitude to all our honorable teachers for giving
their support and encouragement.

We would like to thank to the management of DALAS FASHION LTD. for

giving us the opportunity to undergo Industrial Training there.

We would like to express my sincere gratitude and cordial thanks to the Mr.
Zulfikar Ali Sikder –Managing Director , Mr. Tarek Imam, General Manager
(Marketing), Mr. Saem Ahmed, Knitting Manager & Mr. Mansur Rahman
Rashed, General Manager (Fabric) of the DALAS FASHION LTD. for their
kind permission and co-operation that help me to complete my industrial
internship and as well as this report.

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 INTRODUCTION
Textile and garments sector is the largest and rapid growing sector in Bangladesh.
This sector plays an important role in the economy of our country. World wide it
creates a large market of RMG product. At the same time it earns foreign currency
and increases life living standard of our people by creating job opportunity. In this
sector, the demand of knit garments is increasing day by day. The opportunity of
smaller investment, availability of raw material, shipment facility & higher profit than
woven garments inspires the investors to empower here. That’s why export of knit
garments is increasing steadily for last few years and up to now.

Industrial attachment is the basic needs for the education of Textile. This attachment
makes a student habituated to factory environment & gives a clear conception about
factory work. Students may also find out the implementation of theories in practical.
As a student of AUST have completed Eight (08) weeks long industrial training at
DALAS FASHION LTD. which is a 100% export-oriented composite Knit Dyeing
Industry. It has well planned and equipped fabric knitting, dyeing, and finishing units
in order to facilitate knitting and knitwear manufacturing.

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 CONTENTS

Chapter Topics Page No

01 General Information 5-10
02 Manpower Management 11-15
03 Machines 16-21
04 Raw material 22-25
05 Production planning and Sequence of operation 26-55
06 Quality Assurance System 56-66
07 Final Inspection 67-69
08 Production planning & control 70-71
09 Maintenance 72-74
10 Utility 75-84
11 Costing 85-89
12 Conclusion 90-91

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 Company Profile

Dalas Fashion Ltd. Is a composite (Knitting, Dyeing, Finishing, Garments and Embroidery)
Factory. It is established at 2005. It is located at Eaast Chandra, Kaliakoir, Gazipur district, about
35 km North of Dhaka North -Bengal Highway. The Industry is equipped with modern state of art
machinery and at the same time it complies with:

1. All government, International laws & regulations.

2. The 100% child free labor requirement.
3. Health care facility.
4. Free prevention & fire safety requirements.

General Information

Address:
Corporate and head Office : 20 lake Drive Road, Sector # 07,
Uttara Dhaka -1230

Phone : # 88-02-8933435, 8933436

Fax : # 88-02-893340

Factory : Dalas Fashion Ltd.

East Chandra, Shafipur, Kalaiakor, Gazipur.
Banggladesh.
Email : info@[Link]

Bank Details : ISLAMI BANK BANGLADESH LTD.

Foreign Exchange Branch
Address : 41, Dilkusha Commercial Area
Dhaka-1000, Bangladesh
Telephone : 88-02-9552444, 9565756, 956412-3
Fax : 88-02-9552444
Email : fex@[Link].
Telex : 632238, IBF EB BJ SWIFT : IBBL [Link].109
Member of :

The Dhaka Chamber of Commerce & Industries, Bangladesh Knitwear Manufactures & Exporters
Association.

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Daily rejection% : 1.50%

Shift Hour : 08 Hour

No. of Shift : 03

Lunch : 01 Hour

Peak Season : October to March.

No. of Exit : Every Section has 2 Exit.

Product :Knit Dyeing Fabric

Yearly working days : 302

Export Type : 100% Export Quality

Shift Change:

There are three shifts in the industry. So the shifts are changed at every 8 hours.

Shift Change/ for worker of Security:

A Shift – 06:00 – 14:00
B Shift – 14:00 – 22:00
C Shift – 22:00 – 06:00

Contact person:

[Link] Ali Sikder –Managing Director - (01713-031501)

[Link] Imam-General Manager (Marketing) - (01713-066274)
[Link] Rahman Rashed- General Manager (Fabric) - (01713-049611)

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 Different Sections of Dalas Fashion Ltd.

a) knitting Section:
Knitting
Inspection
b) Dyeing section:
Batch section
Dye house
Dyeing lab.
Quality control
Finishing
c) Garments section:
Merchandising
Sample
Cutting Section
Sewing Section
Finishing Section
d) Maintenance section:
Electrical
Mechanical
e) Store Section
f) Administration Section
g) Security Section
h) Marketing Section
i) Production Planning & Control
j) Human Resource & Development Section

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 Production Capacity
Sl No. Section Capacity
01 Knitting Fabric -5,000 kg/day, Collar -4,000 pcs/day
02 Dyeing & Finishing 12,000 kg/day
03 Garments 30,000 pcs/day (based on items)
04 Embroidery 20,000 pcs/day (based on items)

Working floor Area

Sl No. Division Section Area

Knitting 10,000 Sft
01 Textile Dyeing 28,000 Sft
Embroidery 2,500 Sft
Sewing 3,6000 Sft
Cutting 12,500 Sft
02 Garments Finishing 17,500 Sft
Sample room 1,500 Sft
Office 3,000 Sft
Garments Store 2,000 Sft

Total Man Power List

S/L No. Section Male Female

01 Office (with Manager) 83 01
02 Knitting 57 -
03 Dyeing 155 -
04 Cutting 52 -
05 Sewing 364 470
06 Quality 105 60
07 Finishing 95 71
08 M&U 20 -
09 Sub-Stuff 45 18
10 Sample 19 01
11 Embroidery 28 24
Total 1023 645

Quality Standard
The quality assurance process in DALAS FASHION LTD Is as on going process which begins
from the moment yarn arrives at the Factory until the time of Shipment of Ready Made Garments.
This Factory works under AQL 1.5 and some of their product are inspected by ITS/SGS

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 Layout Plan

Overall view of the industry:

Main Gate

Security Office ↓
W
← ← ← ↓
S N
E ↓ Knitting
Floor
Batching
Area.
Office. Lab
↓ .
Grey Store
Inspection
Dyeing
Floor
Finishing
↓ Floor

Dining← ↓ ←
Dyes & Chemical Store
HR &
Admin ↓
Office
Maintenance Department

Water Treatment Plant

↓
→

Effluent Treatment Plant.

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 Organogram of DALAS FASHIONS LTD.

Managing Director

Director

GM(Production) DGM ( HR & Admin) Additional GM (Operation & Planning)

Manager
Manager Manager Manager Manager
(Lab)
(Lab) (Dyeing) (Planning) (Marketing)

Manager Manager [Link] Manager

(Finishing) (Knitting) (Inspection) (Maintenance)

Manager Manager Manager Manager

(Accounts) (Admin) (Store) (Procurement)

Security Civil & IT

Construction

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 Laboratory Organogram

Lab In-charge

Lab Technician Lab Technician

Lab Asst. Lab Asst.

Knitting Organogram

Knitting Manager

Deputy manager

[Link]

Store Manager Knitting Supervisor Q.C In-charge

Master

Fitter man Shift In-Charge Asst.Q.C

[Link] Man
Operator

Helper

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 Dyeing Organogram

GM

Manager

Floor Incharge

Shift Incharge -01 Shift Incharge -02

Supervisor 01
Supervisor 02

Senior Operator -01

Senior Operator -02

Operator
Operator

Helper
Helper

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 Organogram of Finishing Department

Finishing In-Charge

General Shift A Shift

B Shift

Q.C in-charge C Shift

Supervisor

Operator/ Asst Operator

Helper

Loader

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 Knitting Machine

Name of Machine Brand Dia (inch) Gauge No.

of Set
16 24 01
17 24 01
18 24 01
19 24 01
20 24 01
21 24 01
Single Jersey FUKUHAMA 22 24 01
With Spandex 23 24 01
Attatchment TAIWAN 24 24 01
25 24 01
26 24 01
28 24 01
30 24 01
32 24 01
34 24 01
36 24 01
Fleece 30 20 01
FUKUHAMA 32 20 01
34 20 01
TAIWAN 36 20 01
Rib with Spandex 30 18 01
Attatchment FUKUHAMA 32 18 01
TAIWAN 34 18 01
36 18 01
Rib – Interlock with 30 24 01
spandex Attatchment FUKUHAMA 32 24 01
TAIWAN 34 24 01
36 24 01
Flat Knit Young Gin, Chaina 54 14 10
(computerized)

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 Dyeing Laboratory
Washing M/C Siemens 01 set
Tumble Dryer Siemens 01 set
Woven Dryer A&D 01 set
Lab Dyeing M/C : Shaking A&D 01 set
Water
Bath
Lab Dyeing M/C : Rapid A&D 01 set
Electronic Balance A&D 01 set
Color Assessment Cabinet - 01 set
Crock Meter Taiwan 01 set

Dyeing Machine:

Name of Machine Brand Country [Link] Set

25 kg -03set
50 kg -02 set
150 kg- 01 set
High Pressurized Yang Jia Korea 250kg – 01 set
(Winch) 500kg- 02 set
750kg- 02 set
1000Kg- 02 set
1250kg- 01 set

Dyeing Finishing
Squeezer Man Mool Korea 01 set
De twisting & Slitting - - 01 set
Dryer Hankuk - 01 set
Stenter Ehwa Korea 01 set
Open width Pk. Poong Kwang korea 01 set
Compector
Tubular compactor Tube-Tex USA 01 set
Auto Folding & - - 01 set
Sticthing

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 Garments Finishing Machine

S/L No. M/C Name M/C Type Brand Model Quantity Total

01 Needle Detector Auto Hsima HN-750G 01 Set 01 Set

M/C
02 Thread Sucker Manual - N/A 02 Set 04 Set
M/C
03 Thread Sucker Manual Oshima OP-747S 02 Set 02 Set
M/C
04 Spot Cleaner Auto PMM Pmm- 02 Set 02 Set
M/C MiniSpotty
05 Iron Table - Oshima OPB-777A 30 Set 54 Set
06 Iron Table - Taiwan - 24 Set

Cutting Machine:

M/C Name M/C Type Brand of M/C Model Quantity

Cutting M/C Manual K.M KS-AU-V10 09 Set
Lay cutting M/C Manual K.M KC-2 02 Set

Cutting Table Manual - - 04 Set

Srappping M/C Manual Taiwan NT-88 01 Set

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 Sewing Machine:

S/L No. M/C Name M/C Type Brand Model Quantity Total
1. Plain M/C Manual Siruba L818F-M1 69 Set
264 Set
2. Plain M/C Manual Yamata FY5550 13 Set
3. Plain M/C Manual Brother SL7340-3 60 Set
4. Plain M/C Auto Brother SL2110-403 4 Set
5. Plain M/C Manual Brother SL1110-3 118 Set
6. Over Lock M/C 4 thread Siruba 747514m2-24 64 Set
7. Over Lock M/C 4 thread Kansai UK-1014H-40M-2x4 89 Set
193 Set
8. Over Lock M/C 4 thread Kansai Uk-1014H-01M- 10 Set
2x4/ETC

9. Over Lock M/C 6 thread Kansai UK-1143H-90M-5x2x4 30 Set

10. Flad Lock M/C Cylinder Bed Siruba W122-356-CH 12 Set
11. Flad Lock M/C Cylinder Bed Siruba W222-356-FQ 4 Set
82 Set
12. Flad Lock M/C Flat Bed Siruba U712-264-FSP 15 Set
13. Flad Lock M/C Flat Bed Siruba Rx9803ALK 03 Set
14. Flad Lock M/C Flat Bed Siruba RX-9803CC 09 Set
Back Tap

15. Flad Lock M/C Bottom Hem Kansai MM-1103 20 Set

16. Flad Lock M/C Cylinder Bed Kansai WX-880A-F 04 Set
17. Flad Lock M/C Small Cylinder Bed Kansai H-800A-3 6 Set

18. Flad Lock M/C Flat Bed Kansai FY781 09 Set

19. Button Hole M/C Auto Brother BE-438D 08 Set 09 Set
20. Button Hole M/C Manual Yamata Ke430d-01 01 Set
21. Button Stitch M/C Auto Brother FY1850 07 Set 07 Set
22. Bartack M/C Auto Brother N/A 03 Set 04 Set
23. Bartack M/C Manual Yamata HR808 01 Set
24. Rib Cutting M/C Manual IDEA NH-SB47 04 Set 04 Set
25. Snap Button M/C Manual Honrey HP-450CS 02 Set 04 Set
26. Snap Button M/C Auto Nisho Da-9270-3-264L 02 Set
27. Fusing M/C Auto Hasima PX-302-4W 01 Set 01 Set
28. Feet of the Arm Manual Brother V.C008 02 Set 02 Set
29. P.Q Manual Kansai DFB1411P-XP 02 Set 02 Set
30. PMD Manual Siruba HW-40C 02 Set 03 Set
31. PMD Manual Kansai 01 Set
32. Re- winding M/C Auto Hasima 02 Set 02 Set

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 Embroidery Machine:

Sl. No. Name of Machine Brand [Link] Set

01 Embroidery Tajma 20 Head 6 set
(computerized)
02 Software Wilcom ES 7.1 -

Power Section :

S/L No. Description of Equipment Model Qty. Company Origin

01 Effluent Treatment Installation work is running

02 Water Treatment Plant ION 01 INDIA
03 325 KVA Gas Generator - 01 Shengly Power CHINA
04 750 KVA Gas Generator - 02 Shengly Power CHINA
05 Boiler (capacity =6000 kg/hr - 02 DAELIM ROYAL Korea
06 Water softening Plant (Boiler REB-50 01 REVOTHERM INDIA
07 Weighing Scale 20 HP, 15 15 PUMA Taiwan
HP

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 TYPES OF RAW MATERIAL
The basic raw materials are:
1. Yarn
2. Grey Fabric
3. Dyestuffs
4. Chemicals & Auxiliaries

1. Yarn
Generally used yarn and their count:
Cotton 24S, 26S, 28S, 30S, 32S, 34S, 40S
Polyester 75D, 100D
Spandex yarn 20D,40D, 70D
Grey Mélange (C_ 24S, 26S
Ecru Mélange (C-85% V-15%) 24S, 26S, 28S
Anthra Mélange (C-65% V-35%) 24S, 26S, 28S
PC (65%Polyester & 35% cotton) 24S, 26S, 28S, 30S
CVC 24S, 26S, 28S, 30S

2. Fabric

Singe Jersey:
1. Normal Single Jersey (G.S.M-80-200)
2. Heavy single Jersey(G.S.M-200-270)
3. Single Lacost (P.K)
4. Double Lacost (single P.K)
5. Double Pique (polo P.K)
6. Lycra Single Lacost
7. Lycra double Lacost
8. Half Feeder Lycra
9. Full Feeder Lycra
10. Stripe single Jersey
11. Normal Terry
12. Lycra Terry
13. Design Terry
14. France terry
15. Fleece
16. Terry Fleece
17. Diagonal Fleece

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 Rib Fabric:
1. 1*1 Rib
2. 2*1 Rib
3. 2*2 Rib
4. Derby Rib
5. English Rib
6. Half Feeder Lycra Rib
7. Full Feeder Lycra Rib

Interlock Fabric: :
1. Plain Interlock
2. Mesh Interlock

3. Dyestuff
I. Remazol Briliant Yellow-3GL
II. Remazol Yellow - RR
III. Remazol Blue - RR
IV. Remazol Briliant Blue – RSPL
V. Remazol Turq Blue – G
VI. Moderzol G Yellow – EC
VII. Moderzol Blue – EC
VIII. Moderzol Navy Blue – EC
IX. Moderzol Black – ECN
X. Kemifix fixed – 3BS
XI. UNIFIX Black – EDH
XII. Unifix Yellow – 4GL
XIII. Unifix Red
XIV. Unifix Black – B
XV. Unifix Yellow – DRL
XVI. Unifix Red – D2B
XVII. Unifix Blue – DGG
XVIII. Unifix Orange – 2RXF
XIX. Rema Orange – RR
XX. Rema Yellow – RGB
XXI. Rema Navy – RGB
XXII. Rema Red – F3B
XXIII. Rema Deep Black – GWF
XXIV. Leva Amber – CA
XXV. Leva Fast Red – CA
XXVI. Leva Blue – CA
XXVII. Nova Yellow – S3R
XXVIII. Nova Deep Cheray – SB
XXIX. Nova Super Black – G
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4. Chemicals & Auxiliaries:

Chemical
Acid i) Acetic Acid
ii) Hydrochloric acid
Detergent i) Felosan NOF
Washing Agent i) Cibapon R
Leveling Agent i) Cibacel DBC
Salt i) Gluber Salt
Whitening Agent i) Uvitex BAM
ii) Uvitex BHV
iii) Hostalux ETBN (for polyester fabric)
iv) Bluton BBV
Softener i) Alkamine CWS
ii) Sapamine FPG
iii) Sapamine 544
iv) Megasoft TET
v) Megasoft FMG (For white fabric)
Fixing agent i) Sandofix EC
Reducing Agent i) Hydrose
Bleaching Agent i) H2O2
Enzyme i) Bio ACE
ii) Tinozyme 44L
Stabilizer i) Tinoclarite CBB
Anticreasing i) Cibafuid C
Agent
pH Controller i) Acid
ii) Neutracid RBT
iii) Soda ash
iv) Caustic
Per-oxide killer i) Invatex PC

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 ORDER PROCESSING SYSTEM
Marketing G.M deal with Buyer (including all the cost).

↓
Marketing G.M informs to the Merchandiser Manager.

↓
Merchandiser Manager discuss with Merchandiser. They meet with Buying
House & manage all the process including buying everything to the
Shipment.

↓
Buyer gives color Swatch to Merchandiser & he gives to
Dyeing Manager.

↓
Then the Dyeing Manager gives the color swatch to Lab.

↓
Lab collects the same quality fabric from knitting
↓
Lab develops the swatch with three different shades namely: A, B, C.

↓
Lab also checks all the qualities of the fabric according to the Buyer
Requirements.

↓
Merchandiser meets the buying house with lab dip swatch & discuss
about the Quality requirements.

↓
If the Buyer approves any one from the three options then the lab dip is
ok.

↓
Merchandiser discuss with Buyer for P P sample making (a little
amount, say 5 kg for submission a fabric sample & a whole garments
to Buyer).

↓
Merchandiser gives sample booking to Knitting Manager, then he starts
knitting for P.P sample as well as the dyeing is also being completed.

↓
Then the Buyer checks the P P Sample (fabric & the garments with
all of their requirements).
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 ↓
Merchandiser makes for Bulk production booking & gives to Knitting
Manager, Dyeing Manager, and Garments section as well as to the Honorable
& Responsible persons.
↓

If the Buyer approves P P Sample then the Bulk Production is started.

↓
When the knitting is completed then Dyeing is started

↓
The Bulk production must be same as the lap approval swatch.

↓
The dyed sample is approved by the Dyeing Manager.

↓
Finishing process (Dyeing).

↓
Fabric inspection process.

↓
Garments processing (Fabric delivery to cutting, then sewing).

↓
Final inspection process.

↓
Then the garments are packed.

↓
Buyer inspects the final garments after packing by the Q.C from Buying
house or the inspector from any of the Int. Testing Company. Sometimes
they directly give to them to test all of their requirements.

↓
If Inspection is ok, then the order is ready for the shipment.

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 LAB
Laboratory:
Laboratory is the heart of dyeing Industry. An efficient laboratory can increase
the efficiency of dyeing. So, laboratory in-charge is sometimes called pilot.
Before bulk production a sample is sent to buyer for approval. Laboratory
supplies the recipe to the floor.

Purpose of Laboratory:
o Get color approval from buyer.
o Recipe supply to the floor.
o Shade correction.
o Minimize the deviation between bulk and laboratory.

Laboratory line:
Standard sample:
At first recipe % of standard sample is measured by CCM (computer color
matching) system.

Laboratory Trial:
Then by taking those recipe laboratory officers produce laboratory trial and
match with standard according to buyer requirement.

Approved Sample:
Then sample swatch, which is matched with the standard, is send to buyer
for approval.

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 Lab Working Procedure

Sample in (Fabrics)

Check & note the Lot no, Style no, Item no& Collar

Sample Preparation

Run the test

Physical test Wet lab

Color Fastness to wash

Bursting strength
Pilling Color Fastness to washing
Crocking

Evaluate the sample Pre-production Sample Final sample

Report Making Test Test

Prepared the report prepared the report

Pass Fail

Deliver Refinish Pass Fail Pass Fail

Need to test again Go for the final Refinish

Need to test again

Dimensional stability.

Prepare the sample

Wash the sample according to buyer method.

Tumble dry

Keep the sample flat in the conditioned temperature

at least four hours before, after measurement.

Measure the sample

Prepared the report

Pass Fail

Ready to delivery Refinish

Need to test again

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 Lab. Dip Dyeing

Sample:
- Type - 100 % cotton fabric
- Weight – 5 gm
Procedure:
- At first the recipe for the sample is calculated according to the sample
weight.
- The fabric is kept in the dyeing chamber.
- Then the dyes, chemicals, salt & required amount of water is taken in that
dyeing chamber by digital pipeting on the basis of stock solution.
- Then the beaker is set into the lab. dip. dyeing machine for dyeing.
- The program for dyeing is started for 20 min at 400C.
- After 20 min soda is added by pipeting.
- Then the dyeing program is set for 60 min at 600C.
- When the dyeing time is finished the sample is taken out from the machine
at 400C.
- Then the sample is washed off. At first cold wash & then hot wash is done.
After it soaping is done.
- Then the sample is dried and compared with standard.

Recipe Curve:

600C×60 min

400C×20 min
Wash off
Dyes+Salt+Material Soda
+Water

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Salt & Soda:

Salt and soda is taken on the basis of the shade%. The salt and soda is used according
to the following table:
Shade % Salt g/l Soda g/l
0.001-0.100 20 6
0.101-0.500 24 8
0.501-1.000 30 10
1.001-2.000 40 12
2.001-3.000 50 14
3.001-4.000 60 16
Above 4.000 80 20

Type of order:
• Swatch: It is a common type of order.
Swatch is the sample supplied by the buyer.
• TPX : It means textile on paper.
• TCX : It means textile on cotton.

.
Lab dyeing calculation:
• Calculation of reagent: (Salt, soda and others)

Concentration in g/L X Liquor volume

Stock solution %

• Amount of dye solution:

Material weight X Shade percentage

Stock solution%

• Total amount of liquor:

Material weight X liquor ratio.

• Required amount of water:

• Total amount of liquor - Amount of dye solution.

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 BULK PRODUCTION
Batching:

Batching means the preparation of the fabric for dyeing according to the capacity of
the dyeing machine. It has done under instruction of planning department and time
schedule of the dyeing department.

Function or Purpose of Batch Section:

- To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other source.
- Turn the grey fabric if require.
- To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following
criteria –
• Order sheet (Received from buyer)
• Dyeing shade (color or white, light or dark)
• M/C capacity
• M/C available
• Type of fabrics(100% cotton, PC, CVC)
• Emergency
- To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card.
- To keep records for every previous dyeing.

Preparation of batch

Make the priority as per dyeing plan

↓
Check the availability of fabric
↓
Take required quantity of body fabric from the store
↓
Take collar/cuff as per size
↓
Distribution of collar/cuff or rib in each rope equally to ensure
equal length
↓
Stitch the fabric to make equal weight
↓
Prepare batch card
↓
Send fabric to the dyeing floor.

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Batching of a product depends on some factors like:
• Fabric type
• Yarn count
• Fabric width & GSM
• Machine load capacity etc.
• Ratio of collar cuff with body fabric.

Calculation of collar:
Calculation of collar in a batch depends on the quantity of body fabric as follows-
No. of collar =
Total collar quantity (pcs)
* Required quantity of body fabric.
Total fabric quantity (kg)

= Amount of collar.

Note:
During batching 11% wastage for body fabric and 5% for collar is considered for
further processing.

There are some face knitted fabrics like Pique, S/j, Lacoste etc that needs to be tuned
by turner to avoid any type of dyeing fault in the face side. Turning of the fabric has
done here with the help of a turner.

Remarks:
The preparation of batch card indicates the dyeing schedule of the dyeing floor. It will
ensure the proper quantity of dyeing as per machine capacity.

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 DYEING

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 Process Flow Chart for Pretreatment

Scouring, Bleaching & Enzyme Treatment:

Level in

NOF + Stabilizer (600C by injection)

Fabric Load

Caustic Dosing (600C X10 min)

H2O2 Dosing (700C X10 min)

Temperature raise at 1050C

Run time 30 min

Drain

H2O2 Killer hot wash (800C X10 min)

Drain

Acetic Acid (600C X10 min)

MIR Rinse (10 min)

Acetic Acid (550C injection)

Check PH-4.5

Enzyme Dosing (550C X 5 min)

Run time 30 min

Drain

CS hot wash (900C X10 min)

MIR Rinse (20 min)

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Dyeing Production Flow Chart:

Production flow chart for 100% cotton fabric

Fabric Load
↓
Water Level – As Required
↓
Raise temp to 600C
↓
Add Felosan NOF & Tinoclarite CBB at 600C
↓
Add Caustic at 700C – Dosing time 10 min
↓
Add H2O2 – Temp. ≤ 800C

Raise temp. to 1050C and run 30 min (PH – 10.5-11)

↓
Drain
↓
Water Level – As required
↓
Add Feloson NOF at 980C & run 5 min
↓
Drain
↓
Rinse (Cold Water)
↓
Add Acetic Acid & Invatex PC at 600C and run 10 min
↓
Drain
↓
Water Level – As required
↓
Add Acetic Acid at 550C
↓
Add Bioace at 550C and run 30 min (PH – 4-5)
↓
Drain
↓
Add Invatex CS at 900C and run 10 min
↓
Cold Wash for 10 min
↓
Drain
↓
Water Level – As required
↓
Add Leveling agent (Cibacel DBC), Anticreasing Agent (Cibafluid C)
& Acetic Acid at 600C (PH – 5-6)
↓

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 Add Color at 600C – Dosing time 20 min
↓
Machine Run time – 15 min
↓
Add Salt at 600C & run time 15 – 20 min
↓
0
Add Soda at 60 C – Dosing time 35 min
↓
Machine Run
↓
After 20 min Sample Cutting & Shade Matching
↓
Raise the temp & run the machine as required to match the shade
↓
If shade match
↓
Drain (Bath Drop)
↓
Rinse for 5 min
↓
Add R and run for 10 min
↓
Drain
↓
Add Acetic Acid at 550C
↓
Add Bioace at 550C and run for 30 min
↓
Drain
↓
Hot Wash
↓
Add Sandofix EC (Fixing agent) at 450C and run for 15 min
↓
Drain
↓
Add Water
↓
Add Acetic Acid & Softener at 450C and run for 15 min
↓
Drain
↓
Cold Wash
↓
Unload Fabric

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 Production Flow Chart for White Color

Fabric Load
↓
Water Level – As Required
↓
Raise temp to 600C
↓
Add Feloson NOF & Tinoclarite CBB at 600C
↓
Add Caustic at 700C – Dosing time 10 min
↓
Add H2O2 – Temp. ≤ 800C
↓
Add Uvitex BAM (OBA)
↓
Raise temp. to 105 C and run 30 min (PH – 10.5-11)
0

↓
Drain
↓
Water Level – As required
↓
Hot Wash
↓
Add Acetic Acid at 550C
↓
Add Bioace at 550C and run 30 min (PH – 4-5)
↓
Drain
↓
Add Invatex CS at 900C and run 10 min
↓
Cold Wash for 10 min
↓
Add Acetic Acid
↓
Add Megasoft FMG (Softner)
↓
Drain
↓
Cold Wash
↓
Fabric Unload

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 Production Flow Chart For 100% Polyester

Fabric Load
↓
Water Level – As Required
↓
Raise temp to 600C
↓
Add Feloson NOF
↓
Raise [Link] 900C & run time 10 min
↓
Drain
↓
Water Level – As Required
↓
Raise temp. to 450C
↓
Add Neutracid RBT (Non volatile Acid) & runtime 10 min
↓
Drain
↓
Water Level – As Required
↓
Raise temp. to 450C
↓
Dye dosing for 10 min
↓
Raise temp. to 1300C & run for 45 min
↓
Drain
↓
Water
↓
Cooling at 700C & sample cheek if shade ok then bath drop
↓
Hydrose+ Caustic at 800C for 20 min
↓
Hot wash
↓
Acetic wash at cold temp. for 10 min
↓
Acetic Acid + Softener is added at 450C & run for 10 min
↓
Cold Wash
↓
Fabric Unload

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 Common dyeing faults with their remedies

1. Uneven dyeing:
Causes:
- Uneven pretreatment (uneven scouring & bleaching).
- Improper color dosing.
- Using dyes of high fixation property.
- Uneven heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers.
- Lack of control on dyeing m/c
Remedies:
- By ensuring even pretreatment.
- By ensuring even heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers.
- Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals.
- Proper controlling of dyeing m/c

2. Batch to Batch Shade variation:

Causes:
- Fluctuation of Temperature.
- Improper dosing time of dyes & chemicals.
- Batch to batch weight variation of dyes and chemicals.
- Dyes lot variation.
- Improper reel speed, pump speed, liquor ratio.
- Improper pretreatment.
Remedies:
- Use standard dyes and chemicals.
- Maintain the same liquor ratio.
- Follow the standard pretreatment procedure.
- Maintain the same dyeing cycle.
- Identical dyeing procedure should be followed for the same depth of
the Shade.
- Make sure that the operators add the right bulk chemicals at the same
time and temperature in the process.
- The pH, hardness and sodium carbonate content of supply water
should check daily.

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3. Patchy dyeing effect:
Causes:
- Entanglement of fabric.
- Faulty injection of alkali.
- Improper addition of color.
- Due to hardness of water.
- Due to improper salt addition.
- Dye migration during intermediate dyeing.
- Uneven heat in the machine, etc
Remedies:
- By ensuring proper pretreatment.
- Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals.
- Heat should be same throughout the dye liquor.
- Proper salt addition.

4. Roll to roll variation or Meter to Meter variation:

Causes:
- Poor migration property of dyes.
- Improper dyes solubility.
- Hardness of water.
- Faulty m/c speed, etc
Remedies:
- Use standard dyes and chemicals.
- Proper m/c speed.
- Use of soft water

5. Crease mark:
Causes:
- Poor opening of the fabric rope
- Shock cooling of synthetic material
- If pump pressure & reel speed is not equal
- Due to high speed m/c running
Remedies:
- maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed.
- Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature
- Reducing the m/c load
- Higher liquor ratio

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6. Dye spot:
Causes:
- Improper Dissolving of dye particle in bath.
- Improper Dissolving of caustic soda particle in bath.
Remedies:
- By proper dissolving of dyes & chemicals
- By passing the dissolved dyestuff through a fine stainless steel mesh
strainer, so that the large un-dissolved particles are removed

7. Wrinkle mark:
Causes:
- Poor opening of the fabric rope
- Shock cooling of synthetic material
- High temperature entanglement of the fabric
Remedies:
- Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed.
- Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature
- Higher liquor ratio

8. Softener Mark:
Causes:
- Improper mixing of the Softener.
- Improper running time of the fabric during application of softener.
- Entanglement of the fabric during application of softener

Remedies:
- Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed.
- Proper Mixing of the softener before addition.
- Prevent the entanglement of the fabric during application of softener

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 FINISHING
Finishing:

Textile finishing , in a restricted sense , is the term used for a series of

processes to which all bleached , dyed , printed and certain grey fabrics are
subjected before they are put on the market . In fact , finishing includes the
final treatment of every kind of fabric made from every kind of fiber .

Objective of finishing:
• Improving the appearance – Lustre, whiteness, etc.
• Improving the feel , which depends on the handle of the material
and its softness , suppleness , fullness , etc .
• Wearing qualities , non – soiling , anticrease , antishrink , comfort ,
etc .
• Special properties required for particular uses – water – proofing ,
flame – proofing , etc. .
• Covering of the faults in the original cloth.
• Increasing the weight of the cloth.

Types of finishing:

1. Chemical finishing:
- Chemical reaction of auxiliaries with fibers.
- Application of the handle modifying products / additives.

2. Mechanical finishing:

Finishing effects:
• Easy – care
• Crease recovery.
• Dimensional stability.
• Good abrasion resistance.
• Improved tear strength.
• Good sewability
• Soft or stiff handle.
• Shine or luster

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Flow chart of finishing Section

Finishing section

Open fabric Tube fabric

Slitting machine Dewatering machine

Stentering/Dryer Drying machine

Compacting Turning machine

machine
Raising/Sueding

Final inspection Stenter /Dryer Calendaring machine

Tube Compacting
machine

Final inspection

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 Dewatering Machine

Function:
Apply over feed to give some compaction.
Open the fabric from the rope form.
Width wise stretch the fabric.
Reduce water content.
Apply chemicals
Plait the fabric.

Working principle of Dewatering:

After completing the dyeing process from the dyeing m/c then the fabrics are ready
for de-watering. In de-watering m/c tubular fabrics are mainly processed. There is a
magnetic sensor which scene the twist of the fabric and its direction and turn the
fabric in opposite direction to remove twist automatically. De-watering is the process
to remove the water from the fabric completely by squeezing and it is done by the
padder. A suitable expander is used before the fabric is passed through the nip of the
padders, which expands the fabric flat wise and adjust the width. The expander width
is adjusted as S/J- 20%, PK-25%, Int.-35%, Lacoste-40% wider than the required
width. There is a pair of rubber coated padder, where water is removed from fabric
when passed through the nip of it.

Normally squeezer contain single or double padders where,

• One for removing water and
• Other for applying finishing chemicals such as softener.

But this finishing is done only for the tubular fabric. Open width knitted fabrics is
applied finishing treatment later in stenter.

Here present the compressor which given compress air to form ballooning before
passing through the padder. This balloon remove crease mark but not form the
maximum balloon otherwise shrinkage increase

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 Hydro-extractor
Function:
Remove water from fabric by centrifugal force.

Working Procedure:
The moving basket is round and made by steel. There are lots of hole in the metal
body of the basket. The wet fabric is rotated at a high speed into the metal case.
This rotation develops a centrifuge force which forces the wet fabric to the wall of the
cage. Water is then forced out through the perforations of the cage and drained away.
60-70% of water can be removed from fabric by this way.

Dryer Machine

After de-watering then the fabric through the dryer.

Function:
• To dry the fabric.
• To control the overfeed system.
• To control the vibration which increase the G.S.M.

Working principle of dryer:

This machine contains two chambers. Two mesh endless conveyors are placed
lengthwise to the chamber named conveyor net and filter net, each chamber contain a
burner, which supply hot air .This hot air is guided through the ducting line by suction
fan .There are nozzles placed in between filter net and conveyor net .When the fabric
pass on the conveyor net, hot air is supplied to the wet fabric to dry it. There are
exhaust fan which such the wet air and deliver to the atmosphere through the ducting
line.
The speed of the dryer depends on the temperature of the m/c & the G.S.M of the
fabric. If the m/c temp. is high then m/c speed also high and the m/c temp. is low then
m/c speed also low . The vibration speed of the m/c for heavy fabric is 730 m/min and
normal fabric is 480 m/min.

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 Chamber-1

Chamber-2

Chamber-3

Chamber-4
Dry fabric out
Wet fabric in

Fig: Flow path of dryer

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 Slitting machine

Slitting is a process that is applied for cutting the tubular fabric through the
intended break Wales line on lengthwise direction prior to stenter processing.

Machine parts:
1. Rotary blade: To cut the fabric through break Wales line.

2. Ring: To help cutting.

3. Guide Roller: To guide the fabric to plaiting.

4. Plaiting: To plait the fabric.

5. Sensor: Sense for cutting through break Wales line.

Working principle:

The slitting m/c has 4 units – (1) initial squeezer, (2) de-twisting, (3) sitter
and (4) padder. After dyeing completed and falling of water from fabric the fabric is
fed in slitting m/c. So it is necessary to remove some water initially for the case of
further processing in this m/c. The initial squeezer does this work. The de-twisting
unit removes twists that may present in tubular rope form fabric. This unit has 3 de-
twisting rollers, one rotation drum and 2 feeler rollers with sensors. By these rollers it
detects twist in fabric and removes by rotating rope fabric in opposite direction.
Before slitting there is a blower which blows air to open the tubular fabric & makes it
easy to pass over cigger. The cigger can be extended in circumference and opens the
tubular fabric in full circumference. Slitting is done by using open mark detecting
golden eye by around knife. Then the fabric passes through the padder where washing
or chemical treatment is done. Squeezer is used to remove 60-70% of water. After
removing water width is controlled by stretcher and fabric is delivered by folding
device.

Operational parameter:

• Set the padder pressure as required (3-7bar)

• Set the speed as much as possible (30-80m/min).

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Function of the Machine:

• Used to remove excess water after pretreatment and dyeing

• To slit the tube fabric by the knife for opening of the fabric and ready for
stentering
• Delivered fabric is crease free state
• Before squeezing balloon is formed with the help of compressed air
passing by a nozzle or air sprayer
• It can control the diameter of fabric and GSM and shrinkage by over
feeding mechanism
• To impart soft finish to the fabric by using required softener.

Picture of slitting machine

Detwister Rotary Knife

Cutter Slitting m/c

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 Open Compactor

Machine specification:
Model no : EHWHA
Company : KOREA
No of motor : 12
Over feed : m/min
Machine speed : m/min
Speed range : 13-22m/min
Temperature range : 100-1400C
Maximum width : 86″
Minimum width : 36″
Applied for : Open fabric
Left over feed : -20% → +20%
Right over feed : -20% → +60%
High production : -20% → +60%
Front over-
feeding cylinder : -20% → +60%
Middle belt : -20% → +60%
Heating system : Steam

Function of the Machine:

1. To compact the fabric

2. To control the shrinkage
3. To maintain proper width and G.S.M

Main parts of the machine:

2. Heating chamber
3. Blower (2, one at the entry chain zone for uncurling and another at the
entry of compacting zone)
4. Synthetic blanket as a conveyor,
5. Folder
6. Exhaust fan
7. Unpinning cylinder (-40% → +40%)
8. Belt cylinder (-40% → +40%)
9. Uncurling device at entry of compacting zone.
10. sensor
11. brush roller

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Additional attachment:

i) Selvedge cutting
ii) Selvedge safety
iii) Pinning safety
iv) Selvedge unrolling
v) Selvedge drying
vi) Steam zone heating
vii) Steam

Controlling points:

• Water pressure 2.5 lb

• Air pressure 4 lb
• Steam pressure 6 lb

PICTURE: OPEN COMPACTOR MACHNE

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 Stenter machine

Machine specification:
Model no : Ehwa
Country : Korea
Year : 2005
Other specification:
Speed range : 15-30 m/min (for knit)
15-80m/min (woven)
No of motor
in drying unit : 29

Total no of motor : 49
Temperature range : 20-2500C
Maximum width : 102″
Minimum width : 30″
Steam pressure : 2 bar
Air pressure : 10 bar
Applied for : Open width fabric

Extra attachment:
i) Mahlo attachment for bowing control.
ii) Selvedge gumming device
iii) Selvedge cutting device

Function of the Machine:

i) Drying
ii) GSM control
iii) Width control
iv) Shrinkage control
v) Decrease sprirality
vi) Decrease Bowing effect
vii) Softener application
viii) Surface coating for Teflon finish
ix) Soil release chemical finish
x) Heat set for cotton lycra fabric

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Main parts of the machine:
i) Feed zone
• Centering device
ii) Chemical padding zone
• Squeezing roller
• Chemical tray
iii) Bowing control zone
• Bowing roller (rubber roller, no of roller -2)
• Sensor (no of sensor -6)
• Uncurling roller
iv) Chain entry zone
• Uncurling device (both side of the chain entry)
• Sensor (both side of the chain entry)
• Brush roller (for attaching the fabric with the pin of the chain,
no of brush roller -4)
• Selvedge gumming device with gum box under the chain entry
v) Drying zone
• Gas rotamatic burner (10)
vi) Cooling zone
vii) Delivery zone

Chemical used:
Silicon softener (It is used to soft and slippery of the fabric)

Manpower Required:
Worker: 6

Production:
Capacity : 5 tones/shift
Actual production : 3.5-4.5 tones/shift.

Temperature:
Maximum : 2500C
Sample :1100C
Average : 130-1700C

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Standard Operating Parameter for Different Fabric in Stenter:

Fabric Type GSM Dia Temperat Over Padder Speed Blower

ure Feed Pressure (rpm) rpm
Single jersey 115-150 2”+ 110-140 40-45% 2 bar 30-35 1100-1300
Single jersey 160-220 2”+ 120-170 40-45% 2.5 bar 25-30 1200-1400
Lycra Single 160-200 4”+ 130-160 50% 2 bar 25-30 1200-1400
jersey
Lycra Single 200-250 4”+ 140-160 50% 2 bar 24-28 1200-1400
jersey
Pique 160-200 3”+ 130-160 40-45% 1.5-2bar 25-30 1200-1400
Lycra Pique 190-220 4”+ 130-160 50% 2 bar 20-25 1200-1400
Fleece/Terry 260-300 4”+ 140-170 40-45% 2 bar 20-25 1300-1400
1x1 Rib 160-220 2”+ 130-160 45% 2 bar 24-28 1300-1400
2x2 Rib 190-220 2”+ 140-160 45% 2 bar 20-25 1200-1400
Interlock 190-220 3”+ 130-160 50% 2 bar 20-25 1200-1400

*S/J fabric feed at 3-5 degree angle.

*Others fabric feed, straight.

Figure: Of Stenter Machine

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o

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 Scope of Quality Control, Quality Assurance and Testing

The scope of quality control, quality assurance and testing are good. It has very
well:
o Testing Laboratory.
o Machine auditing system.
o A good training system.
o Excellent analytical backup.
o Technical expertise.

Responsibility of Quality Assurance Manager:

• Responsible for all quality matter of fabric.
• Yarn selection.
• Monitoring product development.
• Organize Laboratory.
• Control grey and finished fabric inspection under 4- point

system.

• Documentation after shade check of every lot.

Responsibility of In-charge of Quality Control:

• Making report.
• Supervise the grey Q.C.
• Check machine is running according to program or not
• Check program can meet the requirement. Which is mentioned in
the order sheet or not.
• Check yarn is approved by Q.C. or not.

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 Quality management system in Dalas Fashion Ltd.

QA

On-Line Off-Line

Online Quality control:

There are two types of online quality control. These are as follows: -
• Raw material control:
Raw material control means control the quality of raw materials (e.g.- Quality
of Grey fabric, Dyes, Chemicals and Auxiliary)
• Process control:
Process control means the selection of right process and controlling of some
parameters. Such as PH, Water hardness, water volume, Temperature, Reel
Speed, Pump pressure, etc.

Responsibility of ON-Line Quality Control:

To check the following things:
• M/C Dia/Gauge
• Buyer
• Design
• Grey fabric GSN & Stitch Length
• Yarn count & Lot no
• Yarn whether approved or not by Q.C. Department
• Finished dia & grey dia.
Fabric quality checking under 4-point system

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Online Tests:
o Dyed fabric.
o Shade check.
o Wash fastness.
o Water fastness.
o Crocking fastness.

Responsibility of OFF-Line Quality Control:

To check the following things:
• Inspection of fabric in the inspection M/C under 4-point system.
• Yarn count and lot no.
• Buyer.
• Design.
• Stitch length of grey fabric.
• Shade of grey fabric with in one order.
Off-Line Tests:
Off-Line tests for finished fabrics are divided into two groups. These are as
follows:
o Physical tests
o Chemical tests
Physical Tests:
o GSM of Fabric.
o Abrasion resistance / Pilling.
o Dimensional stability test.
o Spirality test.
o Color fastness to rubbing test (Dry / wet).
o Bursting strength test (For Knitted fabric).
o Tensile Strength test (For Woven fabric).
Chemical Tests:
o Color Fastness to washing.
o Color Fastness to light.
o Color Fastness to heat. Color Fastness to actual laundering
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 o Color Fastness to Chlorinated water.
o Color Fastness to water spotting.
o Color Fastness to perspiration.
o Color Fastness to Seawater.
o Flammability test.
o Fibre analysis.
o PH test.
o Spray test (water repellency).
o Phenolic yellowing.

Color Fastness Test Procedure

Color Fastness:
The “color fastness” of a colored textile is defined as its resistance to these
changes when subjected to particulates of conditions. It follows that color fastness
must be specified in terms of these changes and expressed in terms of the magnitude.

Color Fastness to Rubbing (Dry & Wet) Test

Sample Size:
• Dyed fabric – 15 cm × 5 cm
• White Test Cloth - 5 cm × 5 cm

Procedure:
• White test cloth is put on to the grating and stag by steel wire.
• The sample is run twenty times manually for ten seconds and the
rubbing fastness of the sample cloth and degree of staining is accessed.
• For rubbing fastness (Wet), the rubbing cloth is placed in the water and
socked and squeeze. The wet rubbing cloth is placed on to the grating
and stag with stainless steel wire and run ten times manually then
assesses the staining on to the rubbing cloth and the rubbing fastness of
the sample cloth is accessed.
Report:
Change of shade of the sample is measured with grey scale and degree of staining of
the white test cloth is measured by Staining Scale.

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 Color Fastness to Wash

Required materials:

1. Sample size 40 × 100 mm

2. Multifiber at 40 × 100 mm
3. ECE detergent (WOB) – 4g/L
4. Sodium Perborate (Na2BO3.H2O2.3H2O2) - 1g/L
5. Distilled water
6. Normal cold water
7. Steel balls
Required instrument:
1. Rota Wash
2. Scissor
3. Stitch machine
Procedure:
1. Cut sample & multifibre at 100 × 400 mm and then stitch.
2. 50 ml ECE detergent (WOB) & 50 ml Sodium per borate is taken
with the sample.
For Marks & Spencer, the solution is taken by the following formula:
(Sample fabric + Multifibre weight) × 50 ml
3. The sample is kept in 600C for 30 minutes in Rota Wash Machine
4. Rinse the sample twice with cold water.
5. Dry at 60°C by hanging or by Flat iron pressing but temperature
should not be more than 150°C.
Report:
Dry the specimen and the change of shade & degree of staining is measured by
Grey Scale & Staining Scale.

Grading of staining:
Grade Rating
01 Very poor
02 Poor
03 Moderate
04 Good
05 Excellent

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 Color Fastness to Water Test

Test specimen:

• Sample fabric – 50 mm × 50 mm
• Multifibre fabric – 50 mm × 100 mm
• Cut the multifibre into two piece
• Sandwich the test specimen between two piece of multifibre

Testing Solution:

• Water is taken as required

Method:
• The composite specimen is put in a peri dish (2 specimen of a sample).
• Water is taken in the peri dish as required.
• Bubble is made out from the specimen by tapping.
• The specimen is put for 30 minutes.
• A glass plate is placed on the composite specimen for 15 minutes at
room temperature.
• Excess solution is poured off.
• Peri dish with composite specimen & glass plate is placed into the
incubator at (37±2) 0C for 4 hours.
• The specimen is dried (Temp ≤ 600C)

Report:
• Change of shade & degree of staining is measured by the Grey Scale
& Staining Scale.

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 Color Fastness to Perspiration Test
Test specimen:

• Sample fabric – 50 mm × 50 mm
• Multifibre fabric – 50 mm × 100 mm
• Cut the multifibre into two piece
• Sandwich the test specimen between two piece of multifibre

Testing Solution:
1. Alkaline Solution:

Histidine monohydro chloride monohydrate (C6H10ClN3O2.H2O) : 5.00 g/L

NaCl : 5.00 g/L
Disodium hydrogen orthophosphate (Na2HPO4.2H2O) :2.5 g/L
PH (Adjust by 0.1 N NaOH) :8

2. Acidic Solution:

Histidine monohydro chloride monohydrate (C6H10ClN3O2.H2O) : 5.00 g/L

NaCl : 5.00 g/L
Disodium hydrogen orthophosphate (Na2HPO4.2H2O) :2.2 g/L
PH (Adjust by 0.1 N NaOH) : 5.5

Method:
- The composite specimen is put in a peri dish (2 specimen of a sample).
- Solution (Alkaline & Acidic) is taken in the two peri dish. Here, M:L is
taken 1:20.
- Bubble is made out from the specimen by tapping.
- The specimen is put for 30 minutes.
- A glass plate is placed on the composite specimen for 15 minutes at room
temperature.
- Excess solution is poured off.
- Peri dish with composite specimen & glass plate is placed into the
incubator at (37±2) 0C for 4 hours.
- The specimen is dried (Temp ≤ 600C)
Report:
Change of shade & degree of staining is measured by the Grey Scale & Staining
Scale.

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 PH of a Dyed Fabric Test

Test specimen:
• 2 gm of dyed fabric is taken.
• The fabric is cut into pieces of (0.5 cm × 0.5 cm)

Procedure:
1. The sample is taken into conical flax.
2. 100 ml distilled water (slightly warm) is taken into the conical flax.
3. The conical flax is put on the Magnetic Stirrer for 30 minutes.

Report:
The PH of the conical flax is measured by Digital PH meter.

G.S.M TEST

Procedure:
GSM is the most important factor. There is a GSM cutter. The sample cut by
the GSM cutter is weighted in the electronic balance. The reading (in gm) from the
balance is multiplied by 100 to get the value of GSM.

Another way of G.S.M test:

CPI × WPI × SL(mm)

GSM = × 0.9158
Ne

Where,
CPI = Course Per Inch
WPI = Wales Per Inch
SL = Stitch Length
Ne = English Cotton Count

.
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 Shrinkage & Spirality test

Buyer’s requirements:
Template size : 50cm & 35cm, 25.5cm &18cm (use after quick wash).
Shrinkage : Length wise- 5%
Width wise-5%
Spirality : Left - 5%
Right - 5%
Procedure:
At first take two ply of fabric & put the template (50cm) on to the fabric. The
template has 8 holes. Both length & width wise the template holes can measure 35cm
at 3 places. Then we mark the 8 holes by permanent marker & also at the edges of the
template.
Then sewn the fabric & it is given to the washing m/c for run at 60°C for 60minutes
with water. After that dry the sample & then measure the fabric:

Spin speed - 500 rpm

Drum speed -500 rpm

Calculation:
Shrinkage Test:

Lengthwise:

After wash – Before wash ×100

Before wash
Width wise:

After wash – Before wash ×100

Before wash
Spirality test:

Left side + Right side

= 2 × 100 %
Length(width for H & M)

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 Pilling test
Procedure:
• Cut the fabric 12.5 x 12.5cm & balance mark should be 10cm by
using template.
• Then sewn the fabric so that it can be firmly fit in the tube moulded
polyurethane tubes.
• Then four tubes are placed in a box & start 60±2 rev/min for 5 hrs or
according to buyer requirement.
• Here mainly used 3hrs (1100 cycle).
• Then assess the pilling by putting tested specimen on the viewing
cabinet & compare with standard photographs

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 Process Flow Chart of Final Inspection:(Q.A.D)

After completing finishing process here firstly check the shade as per buyer
standard with dimensional stability from lab.

Secondly check dia / width fabric weight or G.S.M

Thirdly check fabric surface or appearance as per buyer standard.

The every roll with every meter check as per four (04) point system.

Make a report.

If OK then ready for delivery.

If not OK then identify the fault.

If it is knitting fault then inform the knitting department by job card and mail,
& requested the fabric for replacement.

If it is dyeing fault & If make sure that it is reprocess able then give job card to
dyeing department correction. And if is not reprocess able then reject the fabric
& inform the dyeing department to replace the rejected quantity.

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 Final Inspection

Final inspection is necessary to find out any type of fault which may produced in
different work procedure of knitting, dyeing or finishing. Identification of batch to
batch shade variation is also an important task of this section.
In Dalas Fashion Ltd. the inspection department follows four points system.

Four point system for Inspection:

Inspection procedure for the system:

• At the beginning of each roll, a 6″ full width cutting ( Head end) should be
taken as a
• Color reference and checked for side to center and side to side shading.
• Measure useable edge to edge width of fabric.
• For direction of fabric fault the rating of 4 point should be as follows:
Flows up to 3″ in length : 1 Point
Flows up to 6″ in length : 2 Point
Flows up to 9″ in length : 3 Point
Flows over 9″ in length : 4 Point

Note:
• No linear yards to be penalized more than 4 points.
• All holes, regardless of size will be penalized 4 points.
• Determine fault rate per piece when actual fabric width is less than 36″.
• Minimum length of the roll 25 yards.
• Accepted range 28 point per 100square yards.

Calculation of fault per 100 square yards:

Actual point counted 36″
= * * 100
Actual roll length in yards Actual width in inch

= Points per 100sq. Yards

Note:
• Acceptable points for final inspection- 28.

• After inspection fabrics are packed and send to the store.

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 Production Planning and Control

This department plays an important role in any production related plant. In DALAS
FASHION LTD. the total operation of order receives to final product delivery has
planned by this section. The concern departments of production perform their
processing works on the basis of the instruction of this department. Planning section
made a proper schedule of operation to ensure the required delivery time schedule.
The costing of any product has done here.
The sections of this department are-
- Planning
- Marketing
- Inspection &
- Maintenance.

Human Resource & Administration:

The sections of Human Resource department are-
- Accounts
- Store & procurement.
- Civil & Construction.
- IT.

Administration:

The responsibilities of this department are-

- Maintain rules & regulation of the company.
- Maintain welfare & participation committee.
- Ensure different facility of the employee like increment, bonus, leave etc.
- Logistic support of the company.
- Workers salary payment.
- First aid & medical facility.
- Transport of the factory.

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 MAITENANCE
Maintenance is a procedure by which we can maintain active functioning in operation
according to the behavior and utility of a particular element. In engineering, we use
this terminology for maintaining smooth and uninterrupted performance of machines,
tools and metallurgical characteristics in practical uses.

Objective of maintenance:
♦ To keep the factory plants, equipments, machine tools in an optimum working
condition.
♦ To ensure specified accuracy to product and time schedule of delivery to
customer.
♦ To keep the downtime of machines to the minimum thuds to have control over
the production program.
♦ To keep the production cycle within the stipulated range.
♦ To modify the machine tools to meet the need for production.

Three types of maintenance are performed in Dalas Fashion Ltd.

1. Preventive Maintenance.
2. Routine/ Schedule Maintenance.
3. Breakdown Maintenance.

Preventive Maintenance:
When a problem occurred the operator informed the supervisor, then the supervisor
informed the production officer, then the production officer called the maintenance
officer. The maintenance officer visits the problem and takes necessary steps to solve
the problem.

Schedule maintenance:
It is time-based maintenance and pre-planned to perform on machine and
equipments. This plan usually made on monthly basis.

Breakdown maintenance:
In this type of maintenance when the machine remains stop that time the
maintenance is done.

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Maintenance Tools, Equipments & their functions:

Name of Tools Function

Hammer To give shape
Slide Wrench Tightening and opening bolt
Spanner Tightening and opening bolt
Pliers Cutting, Holding, Joining, wire,
Gripping
Hacksaw Cutting
Pipe Wrench Tightening, opening, gripping pipe
Chisel Shaping, Cutting
File Shaping
Clamp Gripping
Vice

Name of Equipments Function

Grinding m/c Grinding
Cutting m/c Cutting
Drill m/c Drilling
Shaping m/c Shaping
Lathe m/c To make something
Bending m/c Bending

Flow chart of maintenance

Problem occurred

Operator

Supervisor

Production officer

Maintenance officer

Solution

Remarks:

Their maintenance procedure is very good & effective as a result they have
good efficiencies.

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 UTILITY

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Utility facilities:

The following utility facilities are available in Dalas Fashion Ltd.

Gas
Electricity
Water
Steam
Compressed Air

GENERATOR
The only one source of electricity of DALAS FASHION LTD. is the gas
generator. They had two gases Generator to overcome the required electricity of the
DFL.

Name of Generator : Gas Generator

Capacity :
• 750 KVA (02)
• 350 KVA (01)
Origin : China
Company Name : SHENGLY POWER

BOILER
The equipment used for producing steam from water is called steam
generator or boiler. The boiler used for producing steam in GKL is Cochran boiler
which is a fire tube type boiler. This produced steam is supplied by the steam line in
different section. Simple vertical boiler of fire tube type is mainly used in small plant
requiring small quantity of steam and where floor area is limited.

Boiler Specification:
Boiler Type : Fire Tube Boiler
Brand Name : DAELIM ROYAL
Max. Steam Output : 6 t /h
Test Pressure : 20.5 bar
Volume : 12540 L
Year of Manufacture : 2005
Country Name : Korea

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 COMPRESSOR

Basically Compressor generate the compress air which distributed in the knitting,
dyeing & finishing section and this air is used for following reasons-
- To clean the m/c parts in knitting zone.
- To open different type of valves in dyeing m/c during dozing, water feeding,
drainage time.
- Squeezer needed compress air for balloon form.
- Turning M/C’s needed compress air for batch preparation.

Compressed air is produced by air compressor. There are six air compressors and
three dryers in FAKIR Knitwear’s Limited. For producing compressed air.

Name of the compressor : Air Compressor

Origin : TAIWAN
Brand : PUMA
Model : 20HP, 15HP
No. Of Compressor : 01

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 WATER TREATMENT PLANT (W.T.P)

Natural water quality:

Water for a textile plant may come from various sources.
These include surface water from rivers and lakes, and subterranean water from wells.
In DALAS FASHION [Link] collect water from Under ground. Natural and
pretreated water may contain a variety of chemical species that can influence textile
wet processing in general, and dyeing in particular.

There are two deep tubeweel by the two side of the treatment plant. There are also
two submersible pumps in the deep tubeweel one is 100 ft deep and another is 140 ft
deep. The submersible pump transfer raw water in the water tank by creates force.
The formation of oxidation of the water by showering with the help of another two
pimps in the water tank. Iron content removes by the oxidation.

Two circular transfer raw water in the (vessel no-1) Multigrade filter unit. The large
size plastic, iron that means solid content are removed in the multigrade filter unit.
The water is transferred to the (vessel No-2) Activated carbon filter unit. In the
(vessel No-2) Activated carbon unit to remove chlorine that means bad smell. The
water then transfer in to the (vessel No-3) softener unit from the activated carbon unit
at the presence of cationic resin (Zeolite) is reacted with water to remove the hardness
of water.
The water is transferred in to the reserve tank from the softener unit. The soft water is
supplied from the reserve tank by the 7 Boosting pump in the different section of the
factory.

The various salts present in water depend on the geological formations through which
the water has flowed. These salts are mainly the carbonates (CO32-), hydrogen
carbonates or bi-carbonates ( HCO3-), Sulphates ( SO42-) and chlorides (Cl-) of
calcium ( Ca2+), magnesium (Mg2+) . Although calcium and magnesium carbonates in
limestone are relatively insoluble in water.

This water hardness causes some serious consequences in a textile dyeing and
finishing industries and these are
• Precipitation of soaps.
• Redeposit ion of dirt and insoluble soaps on the fabric being washed ,
this can cause yellowing and lead to uneven dyeing and poor handle.
• Precipitation of some dyes as calcium and magnesium salts.
• Scale formation on equipment and in boilers and pipelines.
• Reduction of the activity of the enzymes used in washing.
• Incompatibility with chemicals in finishing recipes and so on.
Hardness expressed by parts per million (ppm) of CaCO3 which is standard
hardness scale and it is also called American hardness. The hardness of raw water is
100 ppm or more. To use it in dyeing and in boiler this water must need to soft &
foreign materials needs to remove

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 The flow chart of water treatment plant is given below

Stone Carbon Resin Dele-

Hard Water Store Tank Filter Filter Filter Very
Pump

Soft Water Store Tank

Fig: Water treatment plan

Water hardness test

Necessary equipments & chemicals:

• Buffer soln .
• Indicator.
• Liquid EDTA soln .
• Beaker.

Procedure:
• Take 50 ml water in a beaker which treated by WTP-plant.
• Take 4/5 drops buffer soln in a beaker .
• Take 1 drop indicator in a beaker and form the violet color.
• Now EDTA soln is dropped until the pink color is not form a crystal
color.
Here,
1 drop EDTA soln = 3 ppm .

Result:

Industrial Soft-water std. range is 5 ppm but it is very difficult to control. So in this
industry, water hardness scale maintains 7 to 8 ppm of CaCO3.

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 The Back wash & Regeneration process
The back wash process to clean the vessel no-1,2 & 3. The back wash
process should be done after 8-12hrs. After 40-48 hrs later the regeneration
process should be done. It should be done after back wash process. After back
wash the common salt dissolved with water in to the STT (salt saturated tank)
the solution of common salt is ringing the resin by the injector. The use of 18%
salt in the total solution. (Suppose, 5000 lit of solution the amount of salt
600kg). The resin is activated by the salt rising. Here used cationic resin
(NaHSO3). If the PH of the water increase or decrease it should be control by
the dosing chemical (Sodium Hypochlorite) from the chemical tank.

A B C D E

Figure: Water treatment plant

Where,
A=Hard water storage tank
B=Stone filter
C=Carbon filter
D=Resin filter
E=Soft water storage tank
F= Pump

Hardness check:
The hardness should be checked after every 6 hrs. It should be checked
by the hardness test kits. The using hardness test kits are Hanna Instrument.
Made in Italy. If the hardness is going to be 0.5 on the syringe scale. Then have
to do the regeneration process. The capacity of the vessel 115m3/ hr or 115
ton/hr.

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 EFFLUENT TREATMENT PLANT

Effluents and effluent treatment:

“Effluent is the stream of excess chemical liquor extracted from an industry
after using in original operation. For example the excess dye liquor extracted
from textile industry after dyeing in an effluent of that dyeing industry.”
Effluent treatment can be explained as below:
Industrial effluent generated from different processes are treated with various
chemicals to remove or neutralize the environmentally toxic materials present in it,
before discharging it to surface or ground water. This is called effluent treatment.

The main objects of effluent treatment are:

1. To control PH
2. To remove coloring matter
3. This process is provided for treating the effluents of dyeing, printing,
finishing, weaving & thus allow to discharge effluent as per by World Bank
dept of environment of Bangladesh.

The effluent generated from different sections of a textile mill must be treated
before they are discharged to environment. Various chemicals & physical means are
introduced for this purpose. The effluent treatment plant in DALAS FASHION LTD.
is under installation work.

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 Effect of impurities or effect of effluents on environment:

Name of impurities Effect

Bacteria Diseases
Algae, Protozoa, Fungi Diseases, odor color, turbidity
Clay and colloids Turbidity
Carbonates Hardness, alkalinity, taste, corrosiveness,
scale formation
Salts of Bicarbonates Hardness, alkalinity, taste, corrosiveness,
calcium scale formation
and Sulphate Hardness, taste
magnesium Chlorides Hardness corrosiveness, taste.
Carbonates Alkalinity
Bicarbonates Alkalinity
Salts of Sulphate Foaming and scaling
sodium Chlorides Taste
Fluorides Tooth decay
Iron oxides Taste, red water hardness, corrosiveness
Manganese Black or brown water
Vegetable dyes Color, acidity
Radioactive impurities Diseases
Gases O2 Corrosive to metals
CO2 Acidity, corrosive to metals
H2S Odor, acidity, corrosive to metals
N2 Child disease, algal growth

Chemical used in effluent treatment:

The following chemicals are used in effluent treatment:
• FeSO4 approximately 600-700 PPM, it is used for removing color.
• polyelectrolyte, it is used to increase precipitation rate
• H2SO4 , up to PH neutralizations for controlling PH of liquor
• Lime approximately 450-550 PPM used to remove coloring matters in alkaline
medium
• Alum, alum is used to sediment residual matters
• DREWFLOC 270 polymer, about 0.05-.25%

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Requirement of discharge effluent as per World Bank:
PH :6–8
BOD : < 50
COD : < 250
SS : < 100
TDS : Not stated
Color : Clear

Typical Output of the Plant:

Raw effluent colour : Black
Raw effluent pH : 01
Treated effluent colour : Light greenish
Treated Effluent pH : 6-6.5
Treated Effluent Temp : 380C

Sketch of the ETP is given below:

Effluent water
from dyeing

Acid Poly electrolyte

solution & alarm dosing

Equalization Flocculation Primary

tank tank clarifier

Discharged
effluent
Sludge bed

Multi filter Sodium

hydrochloride

Chlorination Secondary Aeration

tank clarifier tank

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Flow Chart of Effluent Treatment:

Raw effluent

Equalization Tank

Flocculation tank

Primary Clarifier

Aeration tank

Secondary c larifier

Chlorinaiton tank

Multi filter

Sludge Separation:

Sludge of Tube Satalor

Sludge thickening plant

Sludge drying

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 COSTING
Costing is a process by which the setting price of a product is calculated. It is a
very important task for a factory which runs for business purposes.
And it is also strictly followed in the DALAS FASHION LTD. Costing of the
products considering the raw materials expenditure, salary and wages of officers and
workers, distributions and advertisement expenses etc. all direct and indirect
expenses is done in this factory. It is determined by a troop of accountants with advice
and consultancy of executive director.

Costing Of the Product

The following points are considered for costing any dyed product in DALAS
FASHION LTD.
1. Total dyes & chemical cost
2. Total utility cost
3. Salary
4. Payment
5. Transport cost
6. Lunch
7. Entertainment cost
8. Miscellaneous cost
9. Government cash incentive

Price of the Product:

Generally price of product is determined by the required profit adding to
the total expenses. So,

Price of products= (Direct expenses + Indirect expenses + Factory

Overhead) + Required profit

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Price Range of Different Products:
T-Shirt = $0.75 - $4.50 /Pcs
Polo Shirt =$2.00 - $6.50 /Pcs
Kids Wear ==$0.75- $2.15 /Pcs

Knitting Charge of Different Fabrics:

Fabric name Charge per

kg(Tk)
1. Single Jersey 09
2. Single Jersey with Lycra 30
3. Single locust PK 16
4. Double lacost PK 16
5. Single PK 16
6. Double PK 16
7. Rib 17
8. Rib with Lycra 30
9. Interlock 25
10. Auto striper 80
11. Auto striper with Lycra 100
12. Fleece 22-25

Dyeing Charge of Different Fabrics:

Name of fabric process Charge per kg(Tk)

1. White with Enzyme 35
2. White without Enzyme 30
3. Avg. color with Enzyme 85
4. [Link] without Enzyme (Light& 75
med.)
5. Deep shed with Enzyme (Black) 110
6. Deep shed without Enzyme (Black) 95
7. Only wash (Tubular) 25
8. Only wash (Open) 45
9. Double dyeing (Face & Back) 115

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Finishing Charge of Different Fabrics:

Name of fabric process Charge per kg(Tk)

1. Slitting only 5
2. Stenter only 25
3. Compacting only 15
4. Stenter + Compacting 35
5. Stenter + Compacting+ wash 50
6. Tube Compacting 10

Costing Of the Product:

Let price of yarn is $ 3.00/ kg.
+Process loss of yarn for knitting (10%) = $0.30
Knitting fabric cost = $3.30

Cost of dyes & chemicals = $2.50

+Process loss for dyeing (12%) = $0.30
Dyed fabric cost = $ 6.10

+Packing cost = $0.05

Production cost of fabric=$6.15

Fabric price (with 25% margin) =$7.79

Fabric consumption/ doz. =

(Body length + Sleeve length) x Chest length x 2 x GSM x12 /100, 00000

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Garments specification:

Body length=78 cm
Sleeve length=33 cm
Chest length=62 cm
GSM=210
Fabric consumption/ doz. = {(78+33) x62x2x210x12}/ 100, 00000
= 3.469 kg

Fabric consumption/dozen (with 10% wastage) = 3.816 kg

Body fabric cost / doz. =$(7.79x 3.816)
= $29.73

Cost of collar& cuff/doz = $ 4.00

Cost of Trims=$ 2.25
Cost of Trims (with 5% Process loss) = $2.36
Production Cost of Garments/ doz=$36.09
Garments Price/doz (with 25% Profit) =$45.12

L/C vat 5% add = 869.93

869.93
Fabric cost per kg = dollar
2067.0
= 0.421 dollar

Remarks:

Costing is very important for a productive factory. Without proper costing all
production curriculums will go to vain. Because a factory cannot reach to its goal
without achieving good profit and good profit is not possible without skillful costing.
In DALAS FASHION LTD. there are some skillful personnel to do this job.

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 Conclusion
We have completed our Industrial Training successfully by the grace of
Allah.

Industrial Attachment provides us to the expected destiny of practical

life. DALAS FASHION LTD. is a well known factory in the textile field of
Bangladesh. The completion of the Eight (08) weeks industrial attachment at
DALAS FASHION LTD. gave us the inspiration that factory is one of the
appropriate destiny to implement the theoretical knowledge. From this industrial
attachment we got the details idea about the factory environment, production
process, total management, store & inventory process, maintenance, utility etc.

DALAS FASHION LTD. is well equipped and the working environment

is excellent. The relation between top management to bottom level is so [Link]
are lucky to get the opportunity of having training in this mill.

The factory runs by a number of efficient Textile Engineers, Skilled

technical & Non-technical persons. All the Textile Engineers, technical & Non-
technical persons are very sincere, co-operative and helpful.

It was really a productive practical learning besides our four year

academics, so we wish we will be able to implement our learning and
methodological knowledge successfully in the textile industry and the betterment
of the economy of our country.

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