Survey: Standards
Survey: Standards
Fiber/Textile/Apparel Industry
Craig G. Pawlak
QC
100 NIST
.056
NO. 5823
1996
NISTIR 5823
Craig G. Pawlak
April 1996
TECHNOLOGY ADMINISTRATION
Mary L. Good, Under Secretary for Technology
This publication was prepared by United States Government employees as part of their official
duties and is, therefore, a work of the U.S. Government and not subject to copyright.
A SURVEY of STANDARDS for the U.S
FIBER/TEXTILE/APPAREL INDUSTRY
Craig G. Pawlak
Manufacturing Systems Integration Division
Manufacturing Engineering Laboratory
National Institute of Standards and Technology
Gaithersburg, MD
ABSTRACT
This report documents a survey of standards relevant to the U.S. Fiber/Textile/Apparel (FTA)
industry. The standards are discussed in four main groups —
integration standards, test methods,
quality standards, and standard reference data and materials. The Appendix of the report lists the
titles of all standards found, grouped together by the organization responsible for them. Those
organizations are also listed along with contact information for them. The report attempts to bring
together useful information concerning FTA standards as a starting point to support the industry in
intelligently planning future standards' development efforts.
KEYWORDS
apparel, fiber, integration, quality, specifications, standards, test methods, textile
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
This work is supported by the government initiative on High Performance Computing and
Communications (HPCC), which is primarily being supported through the Systems Integration for
Manufacturing Applications (SIMA) initiative. The work is being done by the Manufacturing
Systems Integration Division of the Manufacturing Engineering Laboratory of the National Institute
of Standards and Technology.
Iwould like to thank my supervisor, Jeane Ford, for her support of this project, and Howard
Moncarz for his editing and other help.
IV
TABLE OF CONTENTS
ABSTRACT iii
KEYWORDS iii
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS iv
TABLE OF CONTENTS v
1 INTRODUCTION 1
1.1 Purpose 1
1.2 Scope 2
1 . 3 Methodology 2
1 .4 Reader’s Guide 2
2 OVERVIEW OF FT A STANDARDS 2
3 INTEGRATION STANDARDS 3
3.1 Business/EDI Transactions 4
3 2 . Manufacturing Automation 6
3 3 . Product Data Exchange 7
4 TESTMETHODS 8
4.1 Fibers 9
4.2 Textiles 9
5 QUALITY STANDARDS 10
5 1 . General Apparel 10
5.2 Special/Protective Clothing 10
5.3 Military Specifications and Standards 11
5 4 . Textile Machinery 12
7 SUMMARY 15
V
APPENDICES
A REFERENCES 17
D GLOSSARY 79
HGURE
Figure 1 Taxonomy for FTA Standards 4
TABLES
VI
A SURVEY of STANDARDS for the U.S
FIBER/TEXTILE/APPAREL INDUSTRY
Craig G. Pawlak
Manufacturing Systems Integration Division
Manufacturing Engineering Laboratory
National Institute of Standards and Technology
Gaithersburg, MD
1 INTRODUCTION
The Fiber/Textile/Apparel (or FT A) industry is one of the largest manufacturing industries in the
United States. It employs over one and a half million people, accounting for ten percent of all jobs
in the U.S. manufacturing sector. Apparel and textile products shipped each year are worth well
over one hundred billion dollars. The success of the FTA industry in the United States is critical to
the economic well-being of our country.
However, in the last decade, the FTA industry's domestic markets, which are key, have been
seriously eroded by foreign imports. As a result, hundreds of thousands of jobs have been lost
over the past ten years and new job opportunities have been missed as well.
The American Textile Partnership (AMTEX ), initiated in mid- 1992, is a collaboration of industry
research consortia and academia working in conjunction with the U.S. Department of Energy
(DOE) national laboratories, to provide assistance to the U.S. FTA industry to recover its domestic
market share and enhance its global competitiveness. In June 1995, the National Institute of
Standards and Technology (NIST) in the U.S. Department of Commerce (DoC) officially joined
the AMTEX collaboration. The survey described in this report is the first effort undertaken by
AMTEX
NIST in the effort. The goal of the survey is to help identify the standards that apply to
the entire FTA industry.^
1 . 1 Purpose
The survey is intended to benefit the Demand Activated Manufacturing Architecture (DAMA)
Project, one of the key The main goal of DAMA is to r^uce the long cycle time
AMTEX projects.
that it takes for a product to ultimately work its way through the "apparel pipeline" from fiber —
production to an apparel product on the retail shelf. The long cycle time costs the industry an
estimated $25 billion a year due to stockouts, inventory, and distressed pricing. The god of
DAMA is to greatly reduce that loss by improving the efficiency of information exchange
throughout the pipeline and enabling effective action as a result of that information. Understanding
what standards apply throughout the pipeline should be useful to that effort.
This paper reports on the results of that survey. It identifies standards related to the FTA industry,
identifies and describes the organizations responsible for approving those standards, and directs
the reader to the appropriate sources for further information.
^AMTEX identifies the FTA industry by the term "integrated textile complex," and has coined the acronym, "ITC."
1
1.2 Scope
The survey covers both national and international standards and standards organizations involved
with and relating to the fiber, textile, and apparel industries. This includes industry standards,
which make up the majority of the standards found, as well as any specifications issued by the
government (such as the MlL-series). This report focuses on standards that are currently in effect,
although past standards and current work may be mentioned to provide additional background and
understanding.
There are many products of the fiber and textile sectors of the FT A industry that do not go through
the entire life-cycle apparel pipeline (from fiber to textile to apparel to customer). Standards
relating to fiber products that do not end up as textiles, but are rather used for industrial purposes,
are included within the scope of this survey. Also included are fiber products such as rope or
webbing, which do not eventually become part of a garment. In addition, any products that are
fabricated from fiber and textile products are included. However, the main focus of this survey
concentrates on standards used in the apparel pipeline.
1.3 Methodology
A general search of standards for the industry was accomphshed through database searches as well
as the use of other reference material. The sources used are listed in Appendix A. The approach
was centered on determining the standards organizations for different sectors of the industry. The
standards organizations are hsted in Appendix B. After identifying the organizations, hsts of their
standards were obtained. The listings are transcribed for use in Appendix C. For the purposes of
discussing the standards in the text, they were organized into four main groups.
1 . 4 Reader’s Guide
Section 2 provides an overview of the different groups for the standards that were found. Sections
3 through 6 describe each group of standards in greater detail. Section 7 concludes the main text of
the paper with a brief summary.
Following the text are five appendices — A, B, C, D, and E. Appendix A contains a list of
references that are referred to in the text as well as additional references that are useful for further
A
information. Appendix B identifies standards' organizations relevant to the FT industry with a
brief description of each and contact information. Appendix C lists the titles of the standards found
over the course of this survey. The documents are grouped according to the standards organization
responsible for each. Appendix Dcontains a glossary of terms related to the FT A industry.
Appendix E is a brief list of acronyms used in the paper, intended for quick reference.
The first group contains integration standards. These are standards which allow one system or
activity to communicate with another. The types of communications may range from one machine
2
communicating with another on a shop floor to one company ordering materials or products from a
supplier. Integration standards are covered in more detail in Section 3.
The second, and largest, group of standards found contains test methods and procedures. These
are methods for testing properties of anything from raw fibers, to yams, to woven fabrics, or even
the machinery used to make textiles. The standards themselves are arranged in the form of an
experiment format, with sections on materials, procedures, and observations. Properties
determined by this group of tests range from the tensile strength of raw cotton fiber to a fabric's
ability to resist fading or mnning (colorfastness). More detail about test methods can be found in
Section 4.
The third group is These deal with more functional properties of a finished
quality standards.
fabric or apparel product. Quality standards specify how to determine if certain products are
suitable for the application intended. The specification might cover the protective ability of a
fireproof jacket, or the stitch spacing of a dress. The bulk of these standards are military
specifications for combat apparel, but there are many important standards which apply to other
areas. Section 5 discusses quality standards in greater detail.
The remaining group of standards consists of standard reference materials (SRM), standard
reference data (SRD), and terminology. An SRM
is used to rate by direct comparison other data or
materials for different applications. An SRD is a collection of numerical information accepted as
accurate within a domain. For example, anthropometric data (body measurements of different
types of people), is used by companies for apparel sizing (an example of SRD), and standard color
or color change charts or samples are used in the apparel industry for direct comparison tests
relating to colorfastness (an example of SRM). More detail can be found in Section 6.
Figure 1 (on page 4) shows the grouping used in this discussion. In the figure, the four broad
groups of standards are each decomposed further to show the types of standards contained.
3 INTEGRATION STANDARDS
Integration is the process of unifying separate items, that is to make multiple objects (whether they
be machines, computers, or entire sectors) act as if they were one unit. This is contingent upon
accurate communication of ideas and information between the (different) parties involved. For this
to occur, both parties must agree upon and use the same protocol, or "language." There are many
accepted standards of communication for the multitudes of different interfaces existing in the FT A
industry. These interfaces exist from one end of the FT A hfe cycle to the other, and the efficiency
and effectiveness of the communication across these junctions has a major effect on the efficiency
of the industry.
Since the area of integration is so important, special attention is needed here. Time delays between
the different phases in the life cycle are due most directly to ineffective communication. These
delays (manifested in the need to keep large inventory) are responsible for $25 billion being lost
annually. The loss occurs through markdowns, stockouts, and inventory maintenance. The other
result of lack of integration is that the FFA industry as a whole cannot respond to demand directly,
but rather must anticipate it, a less desirable situation.
This section will discuss integration standards that are in existence now, as well as describe some
standards that are under development. Some of the most important work is still underway, so
special attention will be given to these up-and-coming protocols. Division of the integration-related
standards is done by what type of interface is affected. The three processes discussed are business
transactions, automated manufacturing, and product data exchange.
3
Figure 1: Taxonomy for FTA Standards
Put simply, electronic data interchange (EDI) is the process of conducting business electronically,
rather than by paper. Communication occurs between two computers, rather than between two
people^. This includes many different types of transactions, such as placing orders, transferring
funds (payment), and confirming receipt of goods. Although the task of creating electronic
protocols to replace all the different (paper) forms used in various kinds of businesses is daunting,
the benefits in terms of efficiency, accuracy, and ability to trace make it more than worthwhile.
^ Shaw, p. 5. 1994.
4
Because the information is transmitted rather than mailed, EDI is faster than the traditional paper
method. Since the "forms" don't have to pass through as many different sets of hands, danger of
an order being miswritten, misplaced, or permanently lost is almost completely eliminated. And
lastly, electronic transmission allows one to trace the history of a form, a feature not always
available with normal mail.
Although EDI began in the 1960s, standards development didn't begin until 1978, when the
American National Standards Institute (ANSI) founded the Accredited Standards Committee (ASC)
X12^. This organization was chartered with the responsibility of creating transaction sets (protocol
for a specific business exchange) for electronic commerce. X12 grew over time and has
established over two hundred different transaction sets through more than a dozen subcommittees.
Although these standards have been very widely used in North America, most industries have
found it necessary or desirable to modify the basic transaction sets in different ways to better suit
their business.
The EC/EDI effort is known as the United Nations Electronic Data Interchange for
international
Administration, Commerce, and Transport (UN/EDIFACT or just EDIFACT) standard.
UN/EDIFACT came about with the merger of the original EDIFACT with the United Nations
Trade Data Interchange (UN/TDI). This standard has often been seen as a competitor to XI 2,
though in fact their methods of organization and design rules are quite similar^. By the very nature
of EDI only one protocol can be used, unless the two are somehow made compatible. For this
reason, ASC X12 announced a deadline for converting to the international standard. This was
initially set for 1997, but was later extended to at least 1999, pending a poll of EDI users that will
be conducted the same year as the original deadline^. As part of the EDIFACT initiative, the
International Organization for Standardization's (ISO) Technical Committee (TC) 154 developed
some syntax rules, which were first published in 1988^. They have since been revised.
In the FT Aindustry, EDI standards work can be divided into three domains: textile, apparel, and
retail. The Fabric and Supplier Linkage Council (FASLINC) was established to adapt X12
standards to the specific needs of textile companies and their suppliers (in the fiber sector). This is
accomplished mainly by inserting textile-specific codes into existing transaction sets, but a few
new transaction sets were actually developed by FASLINC and approved by ASC XI 2.
FASLINC as an entity was discontinued and its standards and responsibilities were transferred to
the Apparel Textile Manufacturers Institute (ATMI).
The Textile Apparel Linkage Council (TALC) and the Sundries and Findings Linkage Council
(SAFLINC) promote and develop electronic commerce standards for clothing manufacture.
Founded in 1986, TALC
is responsible for interactions between fabric suppliers and apparel
companies. SALLINC handles business with the suppliers of non-textile materials needed for
garments, such as zippers and buttons. These two organizations were merged to form
TALC/SAFLENC, which is now part of the American Apparel Manufacturers Association
(AAMA).
There are several EDI standards used in the apparel-retail sector. The Uniform Communication
Standards (UCS) began development in the early 1980's for use by the grocery industry, but has
5
since been expanded in its scope and application^. It consists of about thirty transaction sets, as
well as the stated protocol of using the public phone system with a modem speed of 4800 or 9600
baud. The Warehouse Information Network Standard (WINS) consists of seven transaction sets
for that aspect of retail. The emerging standards for use by aU types of merchandising industries is
the Voluntary Interindustry Communication Standard (VICS). VICS is a subset of ANSI X12
pertaining specially to retail. The domains for UCS and VICS overlap. For more information on
any of these standards, contact the Uniform Code Council at the address and number listed in
Appendix B.
Much of the manufacturing of textiles is automated. Monitoring and control of the many different
machines present on the shop floor can require a lot of people, in the worst case one per machine.
Although most of the maclunes don't require constant monitoring or input, setting them up or
changing a weaving pattern, for example, can take a lot of time. Even shutting down a machine
often requires a long process, and can be dangerous if there are personnel in the wrong places on
the shop floor. This is important because utility companies commonly offer textile manufacturers
significant saving on their electricity if they can shut down power in a short span of time (this
reduces the peak load and keeps the power company from switching to less efficient back-up
generators).
Integrating the manufacturing process allows an entire shop floor to be runfrom the convenience
(and safety) of one central control booth. This can only take place if all the machines are
compatible with the controller and each other. Presently, companies making textile machinery use
proprietary methods of storing and communicating information such as speed of a process or error
warnings. As a result, these machines can only be integrated with others made by the same
—
company an inconvenience for textile manufacturers who may already have other equipment. If
the makers of textile machinery adopted voluntary standards for shop floor data, CIM for textiles
would be much easier to achieve.
One of the major proponents of computer-integrated manufacturing (CIM) for the FTA industry is
ATMI. To aid in the development of voluntary standards, ATMI is working on a dictionary of data
elements for control and monitoring of textile processes. The rationale is that in order to come up
with a universal data set for a certain process, one must first identify all the different variables
involved. This is being done in conjunction with ISO TC 72, and wUl be published in parts as ISO
10782. The first part covers spinning and related processes. At the present time, the dictionary
contains over 100 variables that require attention, as well as definitions and a method of
organization. It is currently in the draft stage and under committee review.
AAMA. 1995.
6
3.3 Product Data Exchange
Product data includes information from every stage in the life cycle of a product. This extends
from initial design through manufacturing, shipping, and even recycling of the product. A
standard for product data has as its goal the accommodation of all the computer interfaces a product
will encounter, thus integrating the life cycle. The benefits include independence from any
particular software tools (such as a certain CAD system); continuity of data (same format of
information can follow the product through the different stages of its life); and the ability to
communicate a neutral data format between different departments, sectors, and even industries.
The development of total product data is called STEP (standard for the
international standard for
exchange of product model being developed in conjunction with ISO by TC 184/SC 4.
data). It is
STEP is being published (in many parts) as ISO 10303. Parts of STEP that have already finished
the approval process include standards relating to drafting and design. At the present time, there
are over forty more ISO 10303 parts in some stage of planning, development, or approval.
STEP an open methodology and framework for the development of product data models and
is
specifications. STEP uses a language for modeling information that is known as EXPRESS^^.
Within STEP, Application Protocols (APs) are created that specify the product information
requirements within the scope of particular applications. In addition to these APs, a large amount
of generic information, applicable to various kinds of products and applications, is used. This
saves the AP developers from redundant effort. Each AP contains a number of important
elements, including a scope for the AP, application reference model (ARM) which describes the
information requirements and constraints in the terminology of that particular domain, application
interpreted model (AIM) that is a representation of the ARM
in terms of STEP constructs, and
methods for testing conformance of an implementation of the standard (conformance testing,
abbreviated as CT).
The effort to extend STEP to apparel product data has been undertaken by the Apparel Product
Data Exchange Standard (APDES) project at NIST. This project is funded by the Defense
Logistics Agency (DLA) which is interested in streamlining the process of contracting uniform
design and manufacture through adoption of integration standards; and improving garment fit by
replacing the traditional ready-to-wear sizing with a made-to-measure system.
A prototype AP (to man for an official ISO STEP AP and containing all the
be used as a straw
parts of an STEP AP except for the AIM) for ready-to-wear pattern making has been under
development at NIST. The AP covers ready-to-wear pattern making, focusing on the
"representation of two-dimensional (flat) patterns generated by the traditional ready-to-wear pattern
making and grading method." ^ prototype AP for made-to-measure pattern making is also under
development. The ultimate goal, of course, is to incorporate all information that describes an
apparel product in terms of STEP.
Other work related to apparel product data is being done by AAMA/ARC. As mentioned earlier,
ARC has published an apparel pattern data interchange standard approved by ANSI. This standard
is based largely upon the Drawing Interchange file format (DXF) developed by AutoDesk™, Inc.
for their AutoCAD® product^^. In addition to continuing research, ARC is tasked with promoting
^^Schenck. 1994.
Lee & Moncarz, p. vi. 1994.
Lee & Moncarz, p. iii. 1994.
ANSI/AAMA-OO 1-1992 : "Standard for Pattern Data Interchange - Data Format."
7
the move towards CIM standards within the apparel community and identifying technologies that
become more competitive globally^^ Current product data
will enable the U.S. apparel sector to
work includes developing implementation guidelines for the pattern data interchange standard, a
standard for grade rule table exchange to support the pattern data exchange standard, and a plotter
data exchange standard^
The area of integration standards seems to warrant special attention by those in the FTA
is one that
where losses to foreign competition are greatest (due to
industry, especially in the apparel sector,
intensive labor requirements). A large portion of the apparel sector is made up of small and
medium-sized companies who lack the resources to develop their own standards and protocols.
Potential exists for increasing efficiency through integration and automation standards development
(and implementation).
4 TEST METHODS
In order for an industry with hundreds of suppliers selling (what is supposed to be) the same
product to hundreds (or even thousands) of buyers, standards are needed to insure that products of
the same type are uniform (and to rate goods based on their quality). FTA is such an industry,
where multitudes of cotton growers and wool farms sell tens of thousands of tons of raw fiber to
the fabric manufacturers who, in turn, sell many bolts of colored fabric to the apparel
manufacturers. It is absolutely essential that the apparel sewers, who produce the end product,
have materials to work with that are of high and consistent quality.
At virtually every step in the transformation of raw fibers to finished apparel, inspections are made
and tests are done. Specific physical (and sometimes chemical) properties of the fiber, or textile,
or apparel are tested to insure that they meet the requirements of the manufacturer and its buyers. It
is important that each company uses the same tests for the same property, so that the results can be
interpreted consistently by those working with the manufacturer and their customers. To this end,
standards organizations are formed and standard test methods and procedures created and
published.
Most test methods consist of three main sections: purpose and scope, procedure, and evaluation
method. The purpose and scope describe exactly what property is to be tested by the method and
to what type or types of fibers or fabrics or yams it pertains. The procedure section is at the heart
of the test, and explicitly describes what steps to take in order to perform the test. The procedure
details what supplies, chemicals, or special equipment to use and how to use them. Lastly, the
evaluation section tells the tester what exactly to look for in rating the particular property being
observed and very often refers to a control sample or a standard reference system, such as the
American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) Chromatic Transference
Scale^^.
Test methods apply to the fiber and textile segments of the industry, but in general not the apparel
sector, as the physical properties that can be tested completely objectively have already been taken
care of. Evaluation of finished apparel garments are done by means of quality standards and
specifications, which are covered in a later section. Test methods relating to the fiber and textile
sectors of the FTA industry are described in turn below.
8
4.1 Fibers
The raw natural fibers (or produces raw man-made filaments) and sells these
fiber sector harvests
fibers to the textile sector. The most basic properties of these fibers (and filaments) need to be
known by both sectors. To this end, many tests are performed and their results recorded. The
main properties of interest include length and length distribution, strength and elongation, maturity,
and adhesion to other materials, such as steel or rubber. These properties are important because
they directly relate to how the fibers will act during the spinning process.
The testsused for fibers and textiles are created and published by two main organizations. They
are the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM), and ISO TC 38. With respect to
leather goods, the American Leather Chemists Association (ALCA) publishes standards, as does
ISO. Approximately 90 of ALCA's 140 or so test methods have been adopted by ASTM. These
organizations play a key role in the development of standards. Since they are independent of any
particular company, their standards are used throughout the sector. Having external standards also
saves each grower or distributor from having to develop and adopt its own standards, which
wouldn't be universal anyway.
Although some of the test methods apply to aU types of fibers, most are specifically targeted at one
type each. This is due to the intrinsic differences between man-made and naturd fibers, and the
ftirther differences between cotton and wool (the natural fibers used most often). So, although the
properties being tested are limited in number, the number of test methods are proliferated by the
variety of fiber types.
4.2 Textiles
The business of the textile sector is to take raw fibers and filaments and convert them into fabrics
which can then be sewn into garments. This process involves three main steps. In the first, the
yam manufacturer prepares the fibers or filaments (through carding, drawing, and roving), spins it
into cones of yam, and then winds the yam onto spools. During the second stage, the slashing
plant chemically treats the yam, preparing it for the next step. The last, and most involved process
is accomplished at the weaving plant. The yam is woven (or knitted) into fabric first. After that,
the fabric is prepared, dyed, and finished. Lastly, the fabric is cut for shipping to the garment
sewing plants.
Throughout this process numerous checks are made. After every major step of the fabric
manufacturing process, at least a visual inspection is done. Test methods applying to textiles are
concerned with a wide range of features. These include strength, flammability, creasing, and
dimensional change due to different environmental factors. The property that is most thoroughly
tested is colorfastness. The importance of that particular behavior of a textile is shown in that
almost half of ISO's 1 14 standards related to fabrics deal with colorfastness.
There are a few organizations that publish test methods for textiles. At the national level, AATCC
and ASTM both make standards. ISO TC 38 publishes standards, including test methods, on the
international level. As its name implies, AATCC is most concerned with chemical and biological
properties of fabrics and colorfastness, though some physical properties are covered. ASTM tests
are very physical in nature, dealing with aspects such as abrasion resistance, moisture, and mass.
There are many more tests applying to textiles made by AATCC than by ASTM. ISO tests are
dominated by tests for colorfastness, since many of the other textile-related standards are reference
information and not test methods.
9
5 QUALITY STANDARDS
A
A major part of the body of standards which affect the FT industry are general quahty standards
or specifications. Unlike the integration standards and the test methods, quality standards are
concrete expectations for a finished product of a certain type. The expectations conveyed through
the document vary in content from flammabihty (such as a fireproof coat) to appearance, and vary
in detail from a general durability specification to a military standard for a uniform specifying every
design particular.
Quality standards are used for many different products in the FTA industry. In most cases, the
standard applies to high-level concepts in a finished product, rather than minute details. For
instance, there are not many quality standards applying to raw fibers, since examining most of the
properties of those fibers require specific tests. In keeping with the organization philosophy, the
quality standards have been sectioned on the basis of their area of application. The major areas of
interest are general apparel, special and protective clothing, military specifications, and textile
manufacturing machinery.
The majority of garments which are manufactured are sold to retailers who in turn sell them
through stores. The success of the apparel sector, and to a large part the whole FTA industry, is
determined by whether people, especially those in the United States, buy the clothes that the
garment companies sew. It is of paramount importance that the garments put on the shelf be of
consistently high quality, and it is in the interests of the manufacturers to minimize the number or
seconds that cannot be sold for full price.
There are many standards used to ensure that garments sold to a customer satisfy minimum quality
as defined by those standards. Most manufacturing and also retail companies have their own
inspections, but national and international specifications do exist. These are written by ASTM on
the national level. ASTM has about fifty performance specifications, each applying to a different
type of apparel, such as knitted overcoat fabrics for men and women^^, or swim wear^^ fabrics.
In addition, some smaller apparel manufacturers and retailers adopt the inspection criteria of large,
established companies such as J.C. Penny, Inc., making such procedures de facto standards.
It is important to note that most of these specifications are standards of quality for the fabrics used
to sew the garments. They insure that the clothing made will meet some basic standards of
durability and, in some cases, fit. ASTM publishes several standards relating to fit, as opposed to
the fifty or so fabric-related performance specifications mentioned earlier. The manufacturers and
designers of clothing who use these standards still have the ability to make whatever they want,
provided the material it is made from meets the specifications they have voluntarily adopted. In the
end, it is beneficial for fabric manufacturers to use these quality standards so potential customers in
the apparel sector wiU know that they are not buying shoddy materials.
The area of special and protective clothing is one of the most sensitive to quality. This is for the
obvious reason that the consequence of product failure is often injury to the wearer of the garment.
D 3562 - 92 (ASTM) : "Performance Specification for Men's and Women's Sliver Knitted Overcoat and Jacket
Fabrics."
D 3994 - 94 (ASTM) : "Performance Specification for Men's, Women's, and Children's Woven Swimwear
Fabrics."
10
(This is much worse than merely inconveniencing or alienating a customer, the result of general
apparel defects.) For this reason, quality standards must be more demanding and much less
tolerant of deviations. As a result, the field of protective clothing has a relatively large number of
fairly specific quality standards and specifications associated with it.
Standards relating to protective and other special clothing can be differentiated on the basis of what
exactly the garment they relate to is intended to do (or in most cases prevent against). Special
clothing is needed for use in a variety of hazardous environments; it may protect against electricity,
chemicals, fire, or even cold. Because of the large number of fires and firefighters, fire-protective
clothing is probably the most common protective clothing, though electrically insulated and
chemical-protective clothing are very important in their respective industries.
Specifications for special clothing are published by ISO TC 94 on an international level. The
National Fire Protection Association (NITA) writes national requirements for protective clothing
for fighting fires. There are many other standards that relate to protective clothing which are not
quality standards, but rather test methods applied to the fabric from which these garments are
made. These standards are published primarily by ASTM and ISO.
The U.S. Armed Forces are probably the largest single customer for apparel made in the United
States. The Department of Defense (DoD) spends hundreds of millions of dollars every year
purchasing uniforms and other textile-based equipment. The consistent quality of garments
purchased is highly valued by the military, more so than in the civilian market. In addition to the
uniforms looking the same, they must meet strict requirements for durability and reliability, since
many of them are ultimately intended for combat. It is also important that the clothing is functional
and easy to wear under a wide variety of conditions. To insure the consistency, toughness, and
utility of their uniforms, DoD pubhshes specifications generally referred to as the "MIL-" standards
or specifications.
There are over 600 MIL-specifications that detail the requirements of specific apparel and textile-
related products and a dozen or so MIL standards that detail the requirements of a category of
apparel and textile-related products. These specifications vary greatly in content. On one side of
the spectrum, quality standards exist that cover all uses of certain fabrics or textiles in military
equipment^®. At the other extreme, some MIL-specifications are detailed requirements for the
making of a certain garment^i. There are also a substantial number of standards that involve textile
products other than apparel. Examples of this would be fabric hoses and life preservers. Since
these are still products of the FT A industry as a whole, they have been included within the scope of
this survey.
22 MIL-4404 IC(GL) "Shirt, Man’s, Short Sleeve, Polyester Cotton, Army Green
: 415, Durable Press."
11
packaging section is self-explanatory. The last part of every MIL-specification contains
information of a general or explanatory nature that may be helpful, but is not mandatory.
The current system of military specifications is designed to insure total uniformity. Every detail of
the sewing process is dictated. There are typically a dozen or more other documents referenced in
each MIL-specification. The reference to each consists only of the name and number of the
standard. No indication is given to the manufacturer of where to find the information that pertains
making of the garment. Unless the scope of the item referred to is very narrow, this
directly to the
can make it comply. Companies are left to search a possibly very
difficult for the contractor to
large document from cover to cover to find what might be a very small section applicable to their
product.
At the present time, proposals are being made to use commercial specifications because they are
simpler. The format for the new series is known as a commercial item description (CID). The
main difference is that the new format will specify what is desired, and allow the contractor to
make it in the most efficient method availible. Previously, the MIL-documents gave exact
instructions for making the item, which placed sometimes unnecessary demands on the companies
contracted to do the job. In addition, some of the specifications will be given in terms of
performance, rather than requiring a certain material, giving the maker leeway in choosing the most
desirable way to meet the requirements. This will make the process of procuring uniforms faster
and more efficient.
The process of making textiles from fibers and filaments is almost completely done by machine.
Setting up and loading the equipment is still often done manually, but the actual spinning,
weaving, etc. is done automatically. Therefore, the sector depends on these devices consistently
working in the proper manner. Standards are used to insure the safety and reliability of textile
machinery.
The primary pubhshers of specifications for textile machinery are ISO TC 72 and ASTM. Most of
these documents apply to key pieces of the machines, such as the rings and travelers on ring
spinning machines^^, or the cones for yam winding^^. There are also a good number of standards
which give definitions and terminology relating to different types of textile equipment. These will
be discussed in the next section.
ISO 96-1:1992 : "Textile Machinery and Accessories — Rings and Ring Spinning and Ring
Travellers for
Doubling Frames — Part 1 : T-rings and Their Appropriate Travellers."
^ ISO 1 1 1:1978 "Textile
: Machinery and Accessories — Cones Yam Winding (Cross Wound) — Half Angle
for
of the Cone 4 Degress 20'."
AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 : "Gray Scale for Color Change." p. 348 of AATCC Technical Manual .
12
Standard reference information can be divided into three categories: standard reference data (SRD),
standard reference materials (SRM), and terminology. These are described below.
6.1 SRD
Standard reference data (SRD) refers to a collection of scientific or technical measurements, values,
or facts that can be represented quantitatively. SRD is accepted as correct within a particular
domain of expertise to be used as the basis of further calculations or decisions. A very simple
example from the field of engineering is the assignment of the value for the constant 7C. 11 is the
ratio of a circle's circumference to its diameter, and its value can only be estimated to a specified
level of precision. For the purpose of taking a test, students may be told to use the value of 3.14
for 7C. Therefore, they should dl get the same answer, and their answers should conform with the
professor's solutions. Although simple and far removed from the FTA industry, this analogy
illustrates both the nature of SRD and its significance.
It iseasy to see the importance of these accepted values when the opposite scenario is considered.
If therewas no accepted value for n, each student would make an independent best guess, or use
whatever approximation the student felt appropriate. Some might use 3.14, others might extend it
to five or six places, while a handful might just truncate the fraction and go with 3. More
ambitious students might use string and ruler to measure the constant directly from a circular
object. (Others might forget entirely and just guess 7.) Depending on what is being done with the
number, the end results could be drastically different (and in some cases drastically wrong).
In the apparel industry, an important set of standard reference data are the different dimensions that
make up size. To achieve a good fit, the apparel manufacturer needs accurate measurements of the
human body. This is called anthropometric data. The first standard set of body dimensions was
compiled by the National Bureau of Standards (NBS, now NIST) in the 1950's. In 1983, the
Department of Commerce withdrew these voluntary standards. ASTM took over responsibility.
The D- 13.55 Body Measurement for Apparel Sizing sub-committee of ASTM has published
standard tables of measurements for ladies^^, infants^'^, and women over fifty-five^^. Sizing
standards for children, men, and large women are in different stages of committee review. With
the exception of the sizing for women over 55, all of these standard tables are based on the original
anthropometric survey conducted by NBS. D-13.55 is currently trying to rally industry support to
update the anthropometric survey to reflect the changing population of the country. Internationally,
ISO TC 133 has an international standard of anthropometric data^^ and sizing.
From surveys of body measurements, standards for actual sizing of garments are derived. NBS
had developed close to twenty voluntary apparel sizing standards which it published in the late
1960s. These covered all the most common types of apparel, from shirts to gloves. Although
girls and women were part of the anthropometric survey, there were no voluntary standards
relating specifically to women's clothing. The NBS-sizing standards were withdrawn in 1983.
On an international level, ISO TC 133 publishes ten standards relating to clothing size for both
sexes. A bibhography dealing with apparel sizing was pubUshed by NIST in 1994^0.
ASTM D 5585 - 93. "Standard Table of Body Measurements for Adult Female Misses Figure Type Size 2-20."
ASTM D 4910 - 89. "Standard Table of Body Measurements for Infants, Ages 0 to 18 Months."
ASTM D 5586 - 94. "Standard Tables of Body Measurements for Women Aged 55 and Older (All Figure
Types)."
ISO 8559:1989. "Garment Construction and Anthropometric Surveys — Body Dimensions."
30 Lee 1, 1994.
13
Although the NBS anthropometric data and sizing recommendations were valuable, some larger
manufacturers have done work to improve the fit of their garments for their customer population.
Of the companies in the U.S., Sears, Roebuck and Company, Inc. has the distinction of doing the
most body size and clothing fit research.^^ With the knowledge they have gained, they publish
pages of details on sizing and fitting of garments. Although Sears has placed special emphasis on
this in the past, reducing returns and increasing customer satisfaction through improving the way
apparel fits remains a goal of all clothing manufacturers.
6.2 SRM
Standard reference materials are physical artifacts that are used for direct comparison with the
sample being evaluated. The reference material is accepted as a standard for the property it
exemplifies. SRMs are often used when dealing with qualitative aspects of an item, such as color
or texture. ("Qualitative aspects," as used here, refers to those properties that are generally not
measured by the industry directly due to technology limitations. For example, as technology
advances, measurements of texture may be more scientifically conducted than by a comparison
with known textures, as it is generally done in the textile industry today.) In order to have some
degree of consistency and control over properties, the properties must be converted to a
quantitative base. This is done by selecting an arbitrary point of reference which the property of a
particular physical artifact exudes. Then samples may be measured relative to the "standard,"
consequently providing an objective measurement of the "quahtative" property.
Many, if not most, of the pertinent properties of fibers, textiles, and apparel are qualitative.
However, many of these properties can be quantified through a certain method of testing. A few
can not. As mentioned earlier, a large percentage of the test methods relating to the fiber and textile
sectors relate to colorfastness. AATCC has developed scales for evaluating color change
(mentioned before), as weU as transference^^ and staining^^ reference standards. These SRMs are
directly compared with the sample that has been through the test procedure (and also a control
sample in tests relating to color change).
Another type of SRM which warrants mention is the model form. Model forms are actual molds of
the human body used to check sizing for apparel. NBS made standard model forms for girls',
boys’, and toddlers' apparel of different sizes. These were developed in conjunction wiA the
anthropometric survey ^scussed above in Section 6.1. Although these may be used for reference,
apparel manufacturers have their own model forms for all tj^s of people and sizes.
6.3 Terminology
The task of publishing definitions and vocabulary on an international level has been undertaken by
ISO. There are approximately forty-five ISO standards which define terminology for everything
AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2. "Gray Scale for Staining." p. 350 of AATCC Technical Manual .
14
from stitches^'^ to fibers^^ Some of the standards which fall into this category deal with words,
while a slightly smaller number define some physical aspect of a piece of equipment, such as
which side is left and which is right^^. ISO's terminology standards are most heavily concentrated
in the area of textile machinery, where there are many different types of machines, each with a
plethora of parts that may need definitions to refer to them.
ASTM has written roughly fifteen standards defining terminology for the FTA industry. Over half
of these standards deal with textiles (yams and fabrics) and textile properties, while a smaller
number deal with the textile manufacturing and apparel sewing processes. A few of the documents
apply to labeling of apparel. There is a terminology specifically for wooP^, but not for the other
fibers. This may be because wool requires a lot of processing before it can be spun into yam.
Dealing with plant fibers such as cotton and flax, is simpler. One standard of special interest to the
apparel sector defines terminology for apparel sizing^^. Overall, these documents seem to cover a
good portion of the industry.
7 SUMMARY
The primary purpose of this survey was to identify the standards that apply to the U.S. FTA
industry. To compete effectively in the global marketplace, the FTA indushy must operate as
efficiently as possible. By developing and adopting new standards where they are needed, and
improving existing standards where possible, many benefits in terms of reduced wait time and
elimination of unnecessary effort can be realized by the industry as a whole.
As can be seen by a pemsal of the appendix, the number of standards related to the FTA industry is
voluminous. The intent of this paper was to bring together in one document a listing of the
standards and standards' organizations associated with the FTA industry. That compilation
represents a first step to determine where to concentrate resources on further standards'
development.
ISO 4915:1991. "Textiles — Stitch Types —Classification and Terminology." Bilingual Edition.
ISO 8159:1987. "Textiles — Morphology of Fibers and Yams — Vocabulary." Bilingual Edition.
ISO 92:1976. "Textile Machinery and Accessories — Spinning Machinery — Definition of Side (Left or
Right)."
ASTM D 4845 - 89. "Terminology Relating to Wool."
ASTM D 5219-94. ‘Terminology Relating to Body Dimensions for Apparel Sizing.”
15
APPENDICES
A REFERENCES
Accredited Standards Committee XI 2. The ASC X12 Plan for Technical Migration to and
Administrative Alignment with UN/EDIFACT tAmendedi May, 1995. .
American Apparel Manufacturers Association. Minutes for November 1995 Meeting . Arlington,
VA.
American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists. AATCC Technical Manual . Research
Triangle Park, NC : 1994.
American Leather Chemists' Association. Journal of the American Leather Chemists' Association .
1994.
American Society for Testing and Materials. 1994 Annual Book of ASTM Standards Section . 7,
Textiles. Vol. 07.01 and 07.02. Philadelphia, PA 1994. :
Amoff, Robert and Hsing, Karen. An Analysis of ANSI ASC X12 and UN/EDIFACT Electronic
Data Interchange fEDD Standards NISTIR 5631, National Institute of Standards and
.
Fowler, Julian. STEP Development Methods . Australian STEP Conference Sydney, : 17-18
March 1995.
Gaffin, Adam. "EDI Standards Migration Effort Delayed Till 1999; Group to Help X12 Users
Ease Into EDIFACT." Network World Oct. 10, 1994, vll, n41. .
1983.
Information Handling Services, Inc. VSMF Product Subject Index . Englewood, CO : 1994.
Lee, Y. Tina. A Bibliography on Apparel Sizing and Related Issues . NISTIR 5365, National
Institute of Standards and Technology. Gaithersburg, MD : 1994.
Reports from the National Institute of Standards and Technology are availible from the National Technical
Information Service, Springfield, VA
22161.
17
Lee, Y. Tina and Moncarz, Howard T. A Prototype Application Protocol for Ready-to-Wear
Pattern Making NISTIR 5115, National Institute of Standard and Technology.
.
Gaithersburg. MD : 1993.
Link, Paul. Textile Encyclopedia . Taleres Graficos Jorman. Buenos Aires : 1954.
McCarthy, Shawn P. "Why Agencies Are So Slow to Embrace EDI," Government Computer
News March
. 20, 1995, vl4, n6. Cahners Publishing Associates.
Markovitz, Paul. Electronic Data Interchange in Message Handling Systems NISTIR 4608, .
Moncarz, Howard T. Information Technology Vision for the U.S. Fiber/Textile/Apparel Industry .
Moncarz, Howard T. and Lee, Y. Tina. "CALS Technologies Applied to the Fiber/Textile/Apparel
Industry." CALS/Enterprise Integration Journal Summer 1994. .
Moncarz, Howard T. and Lee, Y. Tina. Report on Scoping the Apparel Manufacturing Enterprise .
Shaw, Jack and Olson, Paula. "An EDI Review (1994 PC Expo Show)." The Computer
Conference Analysis Newsletter July 6, 1994, n345. Guidelines.
.
Schenck, Douglas and Wilson, Peter, Information Modeling: The EXPRESS Wav . Oxford
University Press, 1994.
Textile Clothing Technology Corp. Process Steps for Men's Cotton Slacks EMS95-108, .
Version 1.1.1994. For detailed information contact Dr. J.F. Macfarlane, Lawrence
Berkeley National Laboratory.
U.S. Allied-Textile Industry Standards Coalition. International Standards Issues and the U.S.
Allied-Textile Industry American Textile Manufacturer's Insatiate. Washington, DC
. :
1995.
1968.
Uniform Code Council, Inc. What is Electronic Data Interchange: UCS VICS EDI Wins Dayton, .
OH : 1994.
18
B FTA STANDARDS ORGANIZATIONS
The following is of organizations publishing and/or developing standards and specifications
a list
^ "Sanctioned by ANSI" means that many or most of the standards they publish are approved and adopted by ANSI
as U.S. national standards.
19
International Organization for Standardization (ISO)
1,rue de Varembe Standards relating to almost all
The following organizations are not directly involved in writing standards, but serve other
important capacities related to FTA standards.
American Textile Partnership lAMTEX')
Laboratory Program Office Collaboration of FTA industry and
Pacific Northwest Laboratory DOE. Develops technologies to
P.O. Box 999 address industry needs. Helps
Richland, WA 99352 industry to optimize product
(509) 375-2306 quality and market responsiveness
while minimizing costs and
IndustryProgram Office environmental impacts.
P.O. Box 4670
Wilmington, DE 19807 AMTEX projects are coordinated
(302) 999-6733 through the Laboratory Program
FAX: (302) 999-6736 office (of DOE) and the Industry
Program Office.
National Institute of Standards and Technologv INISTl
Manufacturing Systems Integration Division Current efforts include the Apparel
Room A127, Bldg. 220 Product Data Exchange Stand^d
Gaithersburg, Maryland 20899 (APDES) project.
(301) 975-3508
FAX: (301) 258-9749
20
c FTA STANDARDS LISTINGS
The following is a listing of FTA standards obtained from the organizations listed in Appendix B.
The listings were obtained when possible from the organizations that issue the standards. The
listings have been reformatted so that they will be consistent across the standards organizations.
For the most recent information or to purchase any of these standards, contact the appropriate
organization directly. Information for contacting any of these organizations can be found in
Appendix B: FTA Standards Organizations.
C . 1 AAMA Standards
The American Apparel Manufacturers Association is in the process of creating and publishing a
number of standards which are important to the integration of apparel manufacturing. The
standards which have been generated thus far are the following:
21
C.2 AATCC Test Methods and Procedures'^^
The standards listed are organized first according to the following categories:
BIOLOGICAL PROPERTIES
COLORFASTNESS
DYEING PROPERTIES
EVALUATION PROCEDURES
IDENTIFICATION AND ANALYSIS
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
Within each category standards are listed in numerical order, according to their identification
number inthe left column. All standards are test methods unless otherwise noted.
BIOLOGICAL PROPERTIES
15-
16-
COLORFASTNESS
1989 Colorfastness to Fulling, p. 174.
1989 Colorfastness to Bleaching with Chlorine, p. 19.
6-1994 Colorfastness to Acids and Alkalis, p. 21.
8-1989 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC
Crockmeter Method, p. 23.
1989 Colorfasmess to Crocking: Rotary Vertical Crockmeter Method,
p.23.
1989
106- Colorfastness to Stoving, p. 26.
107-
11-1989 Colorfasmess to Carbonizing, p. 28.
1994 Colorfastness to Perspiration, p. 30.
1993
116- Colorfasmess to Light, p. 33.
16-1993
117- Colorfasmess to Light, p. 241.
23-1994 Colorfasmess to Burnt Gas Fumes, p. 72.
61-1994 Colorfasmess to Laundering, Home and Commercial; Accelerated,
p. 94.
101-1994 Colorfasmess to Bleaching with Hydrogen Peroxide, p. 150.
104-1994 Colorfasmess to Water Spotting, p. 1565.
1991 Colorfasmess to Water: Sea, p. 157.
1991 Colorfasmess to Water; p. 159.,
AATCC Technical Manual , pp. 5-14. 1995. All page numbers in this section refer to this document.
22
AATCC Test Methods and Procedures
DYEING PROPERTIES
1992 Disperse and Vat Dye Migration: Evaluation of, p. 243.
1994 Compatibility of Basic Dyes for Acrylic Fibers, p. 245.
146-1994 Dispersibility of Disperse Dyes: Filter Test, p. 258.
1991 Thermal Fixation Properties of Disperse Dyes, p. 278.
1991 Transfer of Disperse Dyes on Polyester, p. 280.
1991 Transfer of Basic Dyes of Acrylics, p. 282.
159-1994 Transfer of Acid and Premetallized Acid Dyes on Nylon, p. 288.
161-1992 Chelating Agents: Disperse Dye Shade Change Caused by Metals;
Control of, p. 262.
166-1993 Dispersion Stability of Disperse Dyes at High Temperature, p.
305.
167-1993 Foaming Propensity of Disperse Dyes, p. 307.
170-1989 Dusting Propensity of Powder Dyes: Evaluation of, p. 317.
176-1993 Speckiness of Liquid Colorant Dispersions: Evaluation of, p. 335.
EVALUATION PROCEDURES
Evaluation Procedure 1 Gray Scale for Color Change, p. 348.
Evaluation Procedure 2 Gray Scale for Staining, p. 350.
Evaluation Procedure 3 Chromatic Transference Scale, p. 351.
Evaluation Procedure 4 Standards Depth Scales for Depth Determination, p. 352.
Evaluation Procedure 5 Fabric Hand: Subjective Evaluation of, p. 353.
23
AATCC Test Methods and Procedures
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
17-1989 Wetting Agents, Evaluation of, p. 45.
22-1989 Water RepeUency: Spray Test, p. 70.
1989 Aging of Sulfiir-Dyed Textiles: Accelerated, p. 80.
1989 Wetting Agents, Evaluation of Rewetting Agents, p. 82.
35-1989 Water Resistance: Rain Test, p. 89.
92- 1989 Water Resistance: Impact Penetration Test, p. 91.
93- 1989 Wetting Agents for Mercerization, p. 93.
62-1989 Oils, Wool: Oxidation in Storage, p. 98.
66-1990 Wrinkle Recovery of Fabrics: Recovery Angle Method, p. 99.
70-1989 Water RepeUency: Tumble Jar Dynamic Absorption Test, p. 101.
76-1989 Electrical Resistivity of Fabrics, p. 103.
79-1992 Absorbency of Bleached Textiles, p. 106.
84-1989 Electrical Resistivity of Yams, p. 111.
86-1989 Dry-cleaning: DurabiUty of Applies Designs and Finishes, p. 113.
88B-1992 Appearance of Seams in Durable Press Items after Repeated Home
Laundering, p. 115.
88B-1992 Smoothness of Seams in Fabrics after Repeated Home
Laundering, p. 218.
1989 Chlorine, Retained, TensUe Loss: Single Sample Method, p. 125.
1989 Abrasion Resistance of Fabric: Accelerator Method, p. 127.
96-1993 Dimensional Changes in Commercial Laundering of Woven and
Knitted Fabrics Except Wool, p. 137.
99-1993 Dimensional Changes of Woven Knitted Wool Textiles:
Relaxation, Consolidation and Felting, p. 144.
24
AATCC Test Methods and Procedures
25
C.3 ALCA Standards43
This standards listing contains the names and numbers of all ALCA's test methods and definitions.
Most of them related to leather in general, and a few specifically apply to leather for footwear
purposes. Some of these standards have been adopted and re-published by ASTM. The names of
ALCA/ASTM standards are followed by their ASTM
document number (in parentheses).
26
ALCA Standards
27
ALCA Standards
H3 Moellon - General
H4 Compounded Oils - General
H5 Sulfonated and Sulfated Oils (ASTM D500)
H6 Commercial Soap and Soap deducts
H7 Sponging Compounds - General
H8 Mineral Oil - General
HIO Specifications for Reagents and Equipment
H15 Specific Gravity of Oils aid Liquid Fats (ASTM D5355)
H16 Melting Point
H17 Titer Test (ASTM 5565)
H18 Cloud and Pout Point (ASTM D5551 and D5346)
H20 Moisture and Volatile Matter (ASTM D5556)
H21 Insoluble Impurities (ASTM D5557)
H22 Ash (ASTM D5347)
H23 Sediment in Moellon
H30 Free Fatty Acids (ASTM D5555)
H31 Saponification Vdue (ASTM D5558)
H32 Iodine Value - Wijs Method (ASTM D5554)
H40 Moisture (ASTM D5348)
H41 Moisture and Volatile Matter (ASTM D5349)
H42 Organically Combined Sulfuric Anhydride Titiration Test (ASTM
D5350)
H43 Organically Combined Sulfuric Anhydride Extraction-Titration
Test (for Sulfated Oils) (ASTM D5351)
H44 Organically Combined Sulfuric Anhydride Ash-Gravimetric Test
(in the Presence of True Sulfonates) (ASTM D5352)
H45 Total Desulfated Fatty Matter (for Sulfated Oils) (ASTM D5353)
H46 Total Active Ingredients (ASTM D5354)
H47 Unsaponifiable Nonvolatile Matter (for Sulfated Oils) (ASTM
D5553)
H48 Inorganic Salts (H48) (ASTM D5566)
H49 Total Alkalinity and Total Ammonia (ASTM D5564)
H50 Acidity as Free Fatty Acids of Acid Number in the ftesence of
Dark Colored Oils but in the Absence of Ammonium or
Triethanolamine Soaps (Brine Method) (ASTM 5559)
H52 Acidity as Free Fatty Acids or Acid Number in the Presence of
Ammonium or Triethanolamine Soaps (ASTM 5562)
H53 Neutral Fatty Matter (ASTM D5560)
28
ALCA Standards
29
C.4 ASTM Textile Standards'^'^
The following standards are categorized by the ASTM volume they appear in (either 07.01 or
07.02) and are hsted numerically.
VOLUME 07.01
D 76-93 Specification for Tensile Testing Machines for Textiles.
D 123- 93a Terminology Related to Textiles.
D 204- 93 Methods of Testing Sewing Threads,
D 276- 87 (1993) Test Methods for Identification of Fibers in Textiles.
D 418- 93 Methods of Testing Pile Yam Floor Covering Constmction.
D 434- 75 Test Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yams in Woven
Fabrics Using a Standard Seam.
D 461- 93 Test Methods for Felt.
D 519- 90 Test Methods for Length of Fiber in Wool Top.
D 541- 87 Specifications for Single Jute Yam.
D 578- 90 Specification for Glass Fiber Strands.
D 579- 90 Specification for Greige Woven Glass Fabrics.
D 580- 89a Specification for Greige Woven Glass Tapes and Webbing.
D 581- 89 Specification for Glass Fiber Greige Braided Tubular Sleeving.
D 584- 90 Test Method for Wool Content of Raw Wool - Laboratoiy Sc^e.
D 629- 88 Test Methods for Quantitative Analysis of Textiles.
D 681- 87 (1993) Specification for Jute Rove and Plied Yam for Electrical and
Packing Purposes.
D 737-75 (1980) Test Method for Air Permeability of Textile Fabrics.
D 861- 89 Practice for Use of the Tex System to Designate Linear Density of
Fibers, Yam Intermediates, and Organic-Base Fibers.
D 885- 85 (1992) Methods of Testing Tire Cords, Tire Cords Fabrics, and Industrial
Filament Yams Made fi'om Man-Made, and Organic-Base Fibers.
D 885M-85 Methods of Testing Tire Cords, Tire Cord Fabrics, and Industrial
Filament Yams M^le from Man-Made, and Organic-Base Fibers
[Metric].
D 1059 -87(1992) Test Method for Yam Number Based on Short-Length Specimens.
D 1060 -85(1991) Practice forCore Sampling of Raw Wool in Packages for
Determination of Percentage of Clean Wool Present.
D 1113 -90a Test Method for Vegetable Matter and Other Alkali-Insoluble
Impurities in Scoured Wool.
D 1117 -80 Methods of Testing Non-woven Fabrics.
D 1230 -94 Test Method for RammabOity of Apparel Textiles.
D 1233 - 88 (1993) Specification for Twine Made from Bast and Leaf Fibers.
D 1234 - 85 (1990) Method of Sampling and Testing Staple Length of Grease Wool.
D 1244 -81 (1991) Practice for Designation of Yam Constmction.
D 1282 -89a Test Method for Resistance to Airflow as an Indication of Average
Fiber Diameter of Wool Top, Cam, and Scoured Wool.
D 1283 - 85 (1990) Test Method for Alkah-Solubility of Wool.
D 1284 -87 Test Methods for Relaxation and Consolidation Dimensional
Changes of Stabilized Knit Wool Fabrics.
D 1294 -94 Test Method for TensOe Strength and Breaking Tenacity of Wool
Fiber Bundles - 1-in. (25.4 mm
Length).
D 1334 -91 Test Method for Wool Content of Raw Wool - Commercial Scale.
30
ASTM Textile Standards
D 1335 -67 (1972) Test Method for Tuft Bind of Pile Roor Coverings.
D 1336 -72 (1977) Test Method for Distortion of Yam in Woven Fabrics.
D 1388--64 (1975) Test Methods for Stiffness of Fabrics.
D 1422--92 Test Method for Twist in Single Spun Yams by the Untwist-
Retwist Method.
D 1423--92 Test Method for Twist in Yams by the Direct-Counting Method.
D 1424--83 Test Method for Tear Resistance of Woven Fabrics by Falling
Pendulum (Elmendorf) Apparatus.
D 1425--89 Test Method for Unevenness of Textile Strands Using Capacitance
Testing Equipment.
D 1440--90 Test Method for Length and Length Distribution of Cotton Fibers
(Array Method).
D 1441 -87 (1993) Ractice for SampUng Cotton Fibers for Testing.
D 1442--93 Test Method for Maturity of Cotton Fibers (Sodium Hydroxide
Swelling and Polarized Light Procedures).
D 1445--90 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Cotton
Fibers (Flat Bundle Method).
D 1447--89 (1994) Test Method for Length and Length Uniformity of Cotton Fibers
by Fibrograph Measurement.
D 1448--90 Test Method for Micronaire Reading of Cotton Fibers.
D 1464-90 Test Method for Differential Dyeing Behavior of Cotton.
D 1518-85 Test Method for Thermal Transmittance of Textile Materials.
D 1574--87a Test Method for Extractable Matter in Wool and Other Fibers.
D 1575--90 Test Method for Fiber Length of Wool in Scoured Wool and in
Card Silver.
D 1576-90 Test Method for Moisture in Wool by Oven-Drying.
D 1577-90 Test Methods for Linear Density of Textile Fibers.
D 1578-93 Test Method for Breaking Load of Skeins.
D 1683-90a Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Fabrics.
D 1684-90 Practice for Lighting Cotton Classing Rooms for Color Grading.
D 1770--88 (1993) Test Method for Neps, Vegetable Matter, and Colored Fiber in
Wool Top.
D 1774-93 Test Method for Elastic Properties of Textile Fibers.
D 1775-90 Test Methods for Tension and Elongation of Wide Elastic Fabrics.
D 1776-90 Practice for Conditioning Textile for Testing.
D 1777--64 (1975) Method for Measuring Thickness of Textile Materials.
D 1871 94
-
Test Methods for Adhesion of Single-Filament Steel Wire to
Rubber.
D 1907-89 Test Method for Yam Number by the Skein Method.
D 1908-89 Test Method for Needle-Related Damage Due to Sewing in Woven
Fabric.
D 1909-86 (1990) Table of Commercial Moisture Regains for Textile Fibers.
D 2050-87 (1992) Terminology Relating to Zippers.
D 2051 86 (1991)
-
Test Method for Durability of Finish of Zippers to Laundering.
D 2052-85 (1990) Test Method for Colorfastness of Zippers to Dry-cleaning.
D 2053-86 (1991) Test Method for Colorfastness of Zippers to Light.
D 2054-86 (1991) Test Method for Colorfastness of Zipper Tapes to Crocking.
D 2057-90 Test Method for Colorfastness of Zipper Tapes to Laundering.
D 2058-87 (1992) Test Method for Durability of Finish of Zippers to Dry-cleaning.
D 2059-87 (1992) Test Method for Resistance of Zippers to Salt Spray ^og).
D 2060-90 Methods for Measuring Zipper Dimensions.
D 2061 93
-
Test Methods for Strength Tests for Zippers.
D 2062--87 (1992) Test Methods for Operability of Zippers.
31
ASTM Textile Standards
D 2101 -94 Test Methods for Tensile Properties of Single Man-Made Textile
Fibers Taken from Yams and Tows,
D 2102 -90 Test Method for Shrinkage of Textile Fibers.
D 21 18 -84 (1990) Practice for Assigning a Standards Commercial Moisture Content
for Wool and Its Products.
D 2130 -90 Test Method for Diameter of Wool and Other Animal Fibers by
Microprojection.
D 2165 - 90 Test Method for pH of Aqueous Extracts of Wool and Similar
Animal Fibers.
D 2229 - 93a Test Method for Rubber Property - Adhesion to Steel Cord.
D 2252 -85 (1991) Specification for Fineness of Types of Alpacea.
D 2253 - 88 Test Method for Color of Raw Cotton Using the Nickerson-
Hunter Cotton Colorimeter.
D 2255 - 90 Test Method for Grading Cotton Yams for Appearance.
D 2256 - 90 Test Method for Tensile Properties of Yams by the Single Strand
Method.
D 2257 - 89 Test Method for Exti'actable Matter in Textiles.
D 2258 - 94 Practice for Sampling Yam for Testing.
D 2259 - 91 Test Method for Shrinkage of Yams in Boiling Water or Dty Heat.
D 2260 - 89 Tables of Conversion Factors and Equivalent Yam Numbers
Measured in Various Numbering Systems.
D 2261 - 83 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Woven Fabrics by the
Tongue (Single Rip) Method (Constant-Rate-of-Extension Tensile
Testing M^hine).
D 2262 -83 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Woven Fabrics by the
Tongue (Single Rip) Method (Constant-Rate-of-Extension Tensile
Testing Machine).
D 2401 - 67 (1972) Test Method for Service Change of Appearance of Pile Floor
Coverings.
D 2402 - 90 Test Metiiod for Water Retention of Fibers (Centrifuge Method).
D 2462 - 90 Test Method for Moisture in Wool by Distillation witii Toluene.
D 2475 - 88 (1993) Specification for Wool Felt.
D 2494 - 94 Test Method for Commercial Mass of a Shipment of Yam or Man-
Made Staple Fiber or Tow.
D 2495 - 87 (1993) Test Method for Moisture in Cotton by Oven-Drying.
D 2497 - 80 Tolerances for Man-Made Organic-Base Filament Single Yams.
D 2524 - 91 Test Method for Breaking Tenacity of Wool Fibers, Fl;at Bundle
Method - 1/8-in. (3.2 mm) Gage length.
D 2525 - 90 Practice for Sampling Wool for Moisture.
D 2594 - 87 Test Methods for Stretch Properties of Knitted Fabrics Having
Low Power.
D 2612 - 93a Test Method for Fiber Cohesion in Sliver and Top Static Tests.
D 2644 - 81 (1991) Tolerances for Yams Spun on the Woolen System.
D 2645 - 85 (1990) Tolerances for Yams Spun on the Cotton or Worsted Systems.
D 2646 - 87 Test Methods for Backing Fabrics.
D 2654 - 89a Test Methods for Moisture in Textiles.
D 2692 - 89 Test Method for Air Wicking of Tire Fabrics, Tire Cord Fabrics,
Tire Cord, and Yams.
D 2720 - 90 Recommended Practice for Calculation of Commercial Weight and
Yield of Scoured Wool, Top, and Notch for Various Commercial
Compositions.
D 2724 - 87 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and Laminated Apparel Fabrics.
D 2812 -88 Test Method for Non-Lint Content of Cotton.
D 2816 -91 Test Method for Cashmere Coarse-Hak Content in Cashmere.
32
ASTM Textile Standards
VOLUME 07.02
D 3333 - 90a Practice for Sampling Man-Made Staple Fibers.
D 3374 - 89 Specification for Vinyl-Coated Glass Yams.
D 3412 - 89 Test Method for Coefficient of Friction, Yam to Yam.
D 3477 - 92 Performance Specification for Men's and Boy's Woven Dress
Shirt Fabrics.
D 3511 -82 Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Related Surface
Changes of Textile Fabrics : Bmsh Pilling Tester Method.
D 3512 -82 Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Related Surface
Changes of Textile Fabrics Random Tumble Pilling Tester
:
Method.
D 3513 -90 Test Method for Overlength Fiber Content of Man-Made Staple
Fiber.
D 3514 -81 Test Method for Resistance of Apparel Fabrics to Pilling
(Elastomeric Pad Method).
D 3562 - 92 Performance Specification for Men's and Women's Sliver Knitted
Overcoat and Jacket Fabrics.
D 3597 - 94 Specification for Woven Upholstery Fabrics - Plain, Tufted, or
Flocked.
D 3655 - 93 Performance Specification for Men's and Women's Sliver Knitted
Overcoat and Jacket Fabrics.
33
ASTM Textile Standards
D 3656 - 89 Specification for Insect Screening and Louver Cloth Woven from
Vinyl-Coated Glass Yams.
D 3657 -88 (1993) Specification for Zipper Oimensions.
D 3659 -80 (1993) Test Method for Flammability of Apparel Fabrics by Semi-
Restraint Method.
D 3660 - 90 Test Method for Staple Length of Man-Made Fibers, Average and
Oistribution (Fiber Array Method).
D 3661 - 90 Test Method for Staple Length of Man-Made Fibers, Average and
Oistribution (Single-Fiber Length Machine Method).
D 3690 - 78 (1990) Performance Specification for Vinyl-Coated and Urethane-Coated
Upholstery Fabrics - Indoor.
0 3691 -78(1990) Performance Specification for Woven, Lace, and Knit Household
Curtain and Orapery Fabrics.
D 3692 - 89 Practice for Selection of Sppers for Care-Labeled Apparel and
Household Furnishings.
0 3693 - 91 Specification for Labeled Length per Holder of Sewing Thread.
O 3773 - 90 Test Methods for Length of Woven Fabric.
O 3774 - 89 Test Methods for Width of Woven Fabric.
O 3775 - 85 (1990) Test Method for Fabric Count of Woven Fabric.
O 3776 - 85 (1990) Test Methods for Mass per Unit Area (Weight) of Woven Fabric.
O 3777 - 91 Practice for Writing Specifications for Textile.
O 3778 - 94 Performance Specification for Women's and Girls' Drycleanable
Woven Dress Coat Fabrics.
O 3779 - 81 (1990) Performance Specification for Women's and Girls' Woven
Rainwear and All-Purpose Water-Repellent Coat Fabrics.
O 3780 - 94 Performance Specification for Men's and Boy's Woven Dress Suit
Fabric and Woven Sportswear Jacket, Slack, and Trouser Fabrics.
0 3781-79(1990) Performance Specification for Men's and Boy's Knitted Rainwear
and All-Purpose, Water-Repellent Coat Fabrics.
O 3782 - 79 (1990) Performance Specification for Men's and Boy's Knitted Dress
Suit Fabrics and knitted Sportswear Jacket, Slack, and Trouser
Fabrics.
O 3783 - 94 Performance Specification for Woven Flat Lining Fabrics for
Men's and Boy's Apparel.
O 3784 - 93 Performance Specification for Woven Necktie and Scarf Fabrics.
O 3785 - 92 Test Method for Hydraulic Bursting Strength of Knitted Goods
and Non-Woven Fabrics - Diaphragm Bursting Strength Tester
Method.
O 3786 - 87 Test Method for Bursting Strength of Knitted Goods - Constant-
Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test.
O 3817 - 89 Test Method for Maturity Index of Cotton Fibers by Fibrograph.
0 3818-92 Test Method for Linear Density and Maturity Indices of Cotton
Fibers (HC-Shirley Fineness/Maturity Test).
0 3819-94 Performance Specification for Men's and Boys' Woven Pajama
Fabrics.
O 3820 - 94 Performance Specification for Men's and Boy's Woven
Underwear Fabrics.
0 3821-81(1993) Performance Specification for Woven Terry Household Kitchen
and Bath Towel Fabrics.
O 3822 - 94 Test Method for Tensile Properties of Single Textile Fibers.
O 3823 - 94 Practice for Determining Ticket Numbers for Sewing Threads.
O 3882 - 90 Test Method for Bow and Skewness in Woven and Knitted
Fabrics.
O 3883 - 90 Test Method for Yam Crimp or Yam Take-up in Woven Fabrics.
34
ASTM Textile Standards
35
ASTM Textile Standards
36
ASTM Textile Standards
D 4393 -94 Test Method for Strap Peel Adhesion of Reinforcing Cords or
Fabrics to Rubber Compounds.
D 4465 - 85 (1990) Performance Specification for Zippers for Oenim Oungarees.
D 4466 - 85 Terminology for Multicomponent Textile Fibers.
D 4467 - 94 Practice for Inter-laboratory Testing of a Textile Test Method That
Produces Non-NormaUy Oistributed Oata.
D 4510 -93 Test Method for Counting Partial Cleavages in Wool and Other
Animal Fibers.
0 4522-86(1993) Performance Specification for Feather-Filled and Down-Filled
Products.
0 4523 - 85(1993) Terminology Relating to Feather-Filled and Down-Filled
Products.
O 4524 - 86 (1993) Test Method for Composition of Plumage.
O 4604 - 86 Test Methods for Measurement of Cotton Fibers by High Volume
Instruments (HVT) (Motion Control Fiber Information System).
0 4605-86 Test Methods for Measurement of Cotton Fibers by High Volume
Instmments (HVI) (Special Instrument Laboratory System).
0 4685-87 Test Method for Pile Retention of Corduroy Fabrics.
0 4686 - 91 Guide for Identification of Frequency Distributions.
0 4697-91 Guide for Maintaining Test Methods in the User's Laboratory.
O 4720 - 87 (1994) Practice for Evaluation of the Performance of Soft Window
Coverings.
0 4721-89(1994) Practice for Evaluation of the Performance of Machine Washable
and Drycleanable Bed Coverings and Accessories.
0 4723 - 90(1993) Index and Descriptions of Textile Heat and Flammability Test
Methods and Performance Specifications .
37
ASTM Textile Standards
38
ASTM Textile Standards
D 5426 - 93 Practice for the Visual Inspection and Grading of Fabrics Used for
Inflatable Restraints.
D 5427 - 93 Practice for the Accelerated Aging of Inflatable Restraint Fabrics.
D 5428 - 93 Practice for Evaluating the Performance of Inflatable Restraint
Modules.
D 5429 - 93a Practice for the Pre-treatment of Backing Fabrics Used in Textile
Conservation Research.
D 5430 - 93 Test Methods for Visually Inspecting and Grading Fabrics.
D 5431 - 93 Performance Specification for Woven and Knitted Sheeting
Products for Institutional and Household Use.
D 5432 - 93 Performance Specification for Blanket Products for Institutional
and Household Use.
D 5433 - 93 Performance Specification for Towel Products for Institutional and
Household Use.
D 5446 - 93 Test Methods for Determining Physical Properties of Fabrics Used
in Inflatable Restraints.
D 5489 - 93 Guide for Care Symbols for Permanent Care Labels On Consumer
Textile Products.
D 5497 - 94 Terminology Relating to Buttons.
D 5585 - 93 Standard Table of Body Measurements for Adult Female Misses
Figure Type Size 2-20.
D 5586 - 94 Standard Tables of Body Measurements for Women Aged 55 and
Older (AU Figure Types).
39
C.5 Government/Military Standards and Specifications^s
Because of its size and diversity of content, the military and federal standards and specifications are
organized into two levels of subjects. Standards within each subgroup are hsted numerically. This
section is broken into the following groups and subgroups:
NOTIONSAENTS
Notions & Apparel Findings
Tents/T arpaulins/Covers
CLOTHING/INDIVIDUAL EQUIPMENT
General Information/Apphcations
Outerwear, Men's
Outerwear, Women's
Food Handler's/Processor's
Special Pockets Garments
Surgical Gown/Glove/Mask
Nonsurgical Medical &
Veterinary
Underwear & Nightwear, Men's
Underwear & Nightwear, Women's
Hosiery, Handwear & Clothing Accessories, Men's
Hosiery, Handwear & Clothing Accessories, Women's
Children's & Infant's Apparel & Accessories
Luggage
Clothing/Individual Equipment
NOTIONS/TENTS
40
Govemment/Military Standards and Specifications
Tents/T arpaulins/Covers
K-P-146E INT AMD 1 Tarpaulins, Cotton Duck, FWW/MR. FSC 8340
MIL-P-500H Plates, Tent, Peak and Ridge. FSC 8340
MIL-P-501P Pin, Tent, Metal. FSC 8340
MIL-P-549K Poles, Tent, Upright and Ridge. FSC 8340
MIL-P-608K Pole Section, Tent: Upright and Adapter, Tent Pole. FSC 8340
MIL-T-lllOF Tent, Assembly, M-1942. FSC 8340
MIL-T-1111G(2) Tent, Command Post, M-1945, Fire, Water, Weather and Mildew
Resistant, Olive Drab, Complete. FSC 8340
MIL-F-1461H Frame Sections, Tent, Maintenance. FSC 8340
MIL-S-1484E Shields, Stovepipe, Tent. FSC 8340
MIL-T-1712T Tent, General Purpose, Medium. FSC 8340
MIL-P-1716H(1) Pole, Tent, Telescopic, Adjustable 5 Feet to 9 Feet, Magnesium.
FSC 8340
MIL-S-1743H Slips, Tent Line. FSC 8340
MIL-T-1926G Tent, Mountain, Two-Man, Complete with Pins and Poles. FSC
8340
MIL-T-1956D (1) Tarpaulins, Waterproof, Special Purpose, 10 Feet Long by 8 Feet
Wide. FSC 8340
MIL-P-2383H Pins, Tent, Wood. FSC 8340
MIL-S-3725E Valid Notice 1 Shelter Half, Tent. FSC 8305
MIL-T-7249B Valid Notice 1 Tarpaulin, Light Weight. FSC 8340
MIL-T-10009H Tent, Kitchen, Flyproof, M-1948. FSC 8340
MIL-T-10035K Tent, Hexagonal, Light Weight, M-1950. FSC 8340
MIL-T-10069G (2) Tent, Maintenance Shelter, Fire, Water, Weather, and Mildew
Resistant, Ohve Drab. FSC 8340
MIL-T-10168J Tent, Frame-Type, Insulated, Sectional, with Floor, 16 Feet
Wide, M1948, Complete. FSC 8340
MIL-I-10901H Valid Notice 1 Insect Bar: Field Type, Nylon Netting. FSC 7210
MIL-U-11224E(1) Umbrella, Surveyor's (Six-Rib). FSC 8340
41
Govemment/Military Standards and Specifications
42
Govemment/Military Standards and Specifications
MSS 123 REV C Valid Notice 1 Cover, Fitted, Vehicular Body - Top. FSC 2540
A-A-55235 Tarpaulin; Cotton Duck, Camouflage Green 483; 20 Feet by 20
Inches. FSC 8340
MIL-S-55507E (2) Shelter, Electrical Equipment (With or Without Equipment),
Packaging of. FSC PACK
MIL-S-55557A Notice 2 Shelter, Electrical Equipment S-330()/TRC-l 17(V). FSC 5410
MIL-T-82120A (1) Tarpaulins: Duck, Cotton; Fire, Water, Weather and Mildew
Resistant Treated; with Carrying Bag. FSC 8340
MIL-T-82152B Tarpaulins: Duck, Cotton, Vinyl Resin Coated Both Sides, 14
Feet Lx)ng by 6 Feet Wide. FSC 8340
MIL-T-82288B Tarpauhn: Laminated, Vinyl-Nylon, Rexible. FSC 8340
MIL-T-83788 Tent, Pyramidal, Survival, 3-4 Man, SRU-l/P. FSC 8340
MIL-C-83991A Cover, Polyethylene, Pallet, Cargo HCU-6/E And HCU-12/E
(Use A-A-55437). FSC 3990
CLOTHING/INDIVIDUAL EQUIPMENT
Outerwear. Men's
BBB-C-0050 Cap, Softball. FSC 8415
MIL-STD-657A Provision for Evaluating Quality of Service Caps. FSC 8405
MIL-C-8131E(1) Cap, Utility: Cotton, Sateen, Green. FSC 8405
MIL-STD-901B Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Caps, Garrison, Men's.
FSC 8405
BBB-S-1268B Valid Notice 1 Sweatshirt. FSC 8415
BBB-S-1269B (2) Sweat Pants. FSC 8415
MIL-STD-1391D Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Overcoats, Men's. FSC
8405
MIL-STD-1488G Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Coats, Men's Dress. FSC
8405
MIL-STD-1492C Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Men's Shirts. FSC 8405
MIL-STD-1494B Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Raincoats. FSC 8405
A-A-1626 Shirt, Man's and Women's (Long or Short Sleeve). FSC 8405
A-A-1782 Cap, Civilian, Uniform. FSC 8405
A-A-1783 Shirt, Man's (and Woman's; Long Sleeve). FSC 8415
A-A-1784 Trousers, Man's (and Woman's - Summer Weight). FSC 8415
A-A-1785 Trousers, Man's and Woman's (Winter Weight). FSC 8405
A-A-1786 Shirt, Man's (and Woman's; Short Sleeve). FSC 8415
MIL-C-191 IJ INT AMD 2 Cap, Camouflage Pattern. FSC 8415
MIL-S-2036J Scarf, Neckwear, Wool. FSC 8440
MIL-C-2202H Coveralls, Men's Cotton, Sateen. FSC 8405
MIL-0-24 14H Overcoat, Man's, Enlisted. FSC 8405
MIL-T-2423L Trousers, Men's (White). FSC 8405
MIL-S-3003K (1) Poncho, Wet Weather, Heavy Duty. FSC 8405
MIL-S-3007J (1) Sweater, Man's, Olive Drab. FSC 8405
43
Govemment/Military Standards and Specifications
44
Govemment/Military Standards and Specifications
45
Govemment/Military Standards and Specifications
46
Govemment/Military Standards and Specifications
Outerwear. Women's
MIL-STD-656C Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Slacks, Women's. FSC
8410
MIL-STD~657A Provisions for Evaluating Quahty of Service Caps. FSC 8405
MIL-STD-902A Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Caps, Garrison, Women's.
FSC 8410
MIL-STD-984 Chg Notice 1 Size Labeling for Women's Uniform Clothing, Provisions for.
FSC 8410
MIL-STD-1608C Notice 1 Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Coats, Women's, Dress.
FSC 8410
MIL-STD-1609C Provisions for Evaluating Quahty of Women's Skirts. FSC 8410
A-A-1626 Shirt, Man's and Women's (Long or Short Sleeve). FSC 8405
A-A-1782 Cap, Civilian, Uniform. FSC 8405
A-A-1783 Shirt, Man's (and Woman's; Long Sleeve). FSC 8415
A-A-1784 Trousers, Man's (and Woman's - Summer Weight). FSC 8405
A-A-1785 Trousers, Man's and Woman's (Winter Weight). FSC 8405
A-A-1786 Shirt, Man's (and Woman's; Short Sleeve). FSC 8415
MIL-C-15065J Coat Fronts. FSC 8315
MIL-H-15505K Hat, Service, Woman's. FSC 8410
MIL-C-15507L Cap, Garrison, Woman's (Navy). FSC 8410
MIL-C-15881C Coat, Woman's: Cotton, Sateen; Green; (Utility). FSC 8410
MrL-S-19665B Shirt, Woman's: Cotton, Sateen, Green (Utility). FSC 8410
MIL-H-19793C Havelock, Plastic. FSC 8410
MIL-S-202474A Slacks, Women's: Cotton, Sateen, Green (Utility). FSC 8410
ME.-O-21086B (1) Overcoat, Women's: Wool, Serge, Green. FSC 8410
MIL-H-24900A Hat, Combination, Woman's (Coast Guard). FSC 8410
MIL-R-24919A Raincoat, Women's, w/Removable Liner(CG). FSC 8410
MIL-C-24921A Coat, All-Weather, Woman's, with Removable Liner. FSC 8410
MIL-S-24923 Shirt, Utility, Woman's, Polyester/Cotton (CG). FSC 8410
MIL-0-24926A Overcoat, Woman's, Enlisted. FSC 8410
MIL-S-24948A Slacks, Women's (with Side Pockets). FSC 8410
MIL-J-24949 Jumper, Woman's, White. FSC 8410
MIL-C-28922 (2) Coat, Woman's: Summer, Green and White. FSC 8410
47
Govemment/Military Standards and Specifications
MIL-U-28946A VaUd Notice 1 Uniform, Women's: White; Dress (Officer's). FSC 8410
MIL-S-29122D Skirt, Woman's, Blue, Dress. FSC 8410
MIL-C-29123A Coat, Women's, Summer (Navy). FSC 8410
MIL-C-29124D Coat, Woman's, Blue, Dress. FSC 8410
MIL-S-29138A(1) Sweater, Woman's, Acrylic. FSC 8410
MIL-S-29368C Shirts, Women's: I^ng and Short Sleeves. FSC 8410
MIL-T-29375A Tunic: Woman's Maternity. FSC 8410
MIL-S-29376A Skirt: Woman's Maternity. FSC 8410
MIL-S-29377A Slacks: Women's Maternity. FSC 8410
MIL-C-29381C Coat, All-Weather, Women's. FSC 8410
MIL-H-29382 Hood, Woman's: All-Weather Coat, Dress. FSC 8410
MIL-V-29384 Valid Notice 1 Vest, Women's: Scarlet, Dress (General Officer's). FSC 8410
MIL-C-29386A Cap, Dress: Women's. FSC 8410
ME.-S-29388B (1) Shirts, Women's: Maternity, Long and Short Sleeves. FSC 8410
MIL-C-29391A Coat, Women's: Wool Gabardine: Dress Blue Ceremonial. FSC
8410
MIL-C-29393 Valid Notice 1 Coat, Women's: Full Dress, Scarlet, U.S. Marine Band,
Musician's. FSC 8410
MIL-S-29394B Skirts, Women's: Evening Dress, U.S. Marine Band
(Musician's). FSC 8410
MIL-S-29395A Slacks, Women's; Musician's. FSC 8410
MIL-J-29396 Valid Notice 1 Jacket, Women's; Special Full Dress Scarlet, U.S. Marine Band,
Musician. FSC 8410
MIL-J-29397 Valid Notice 1 Jacket, Woman's, Full Dress Scarlet, U.S. Marine Band,
Musician. FSC 8410
MIL-B-29408A Belt, All Weather Coat, Women's. FSC 8410
MIL-C-29427A(1) Coats, Women's. FSC 8410
MIL-S-29429A Skirts, Women's. FSC 8410
MIL-C-29431 Caps, Garrison: Women's. FSC 8410
MIL-S-29432A Slacks, Women's. FSC 8410
MIL-C-29453A Coat, Woman's: Wool/Polyester; Gabardine, Blue. FSC 8410
MIL-C-29454 Caps, Service: Women's, PolyesterAVool, Wool. FSC 8410
MIL-C-29628 Coat, Woman's, Blue, Dress. FSC 8410
MIL-S-29629 Skirt, Woman's (with Welt Pockets). FSC 8410
MIL-S-29630 Slacks, Women's. FSC 8410
MIL-S-29631 Skirt, Woman's, Blue, Dress. FSC 8410
MIL-S-29633A Shirt, Woman's, Dress, Short and Long Sleeve (Coast Guard).
FSC 8410
MIL-D-37031 Dresses, Woman's, Cotton-Polyester, Static Resistant, Pleated
Front. FSC 8410
NnL-S-40035C (2) Shirt, Woman's (Exercise). FSC 8415
MIL-S-41825F Slacks, Women's. FSC 8410
MIL-H-43162F Hat, Service, Woman's, Wool or Polyester and Wool. FSC 8410
MIL-S-43505D Shirt, Woman's, Polyester/Cotton. FSC 8410
MIL-C-43972D Coat, All-Weather, Woman's, Black with Removable Liner. FSC
8410
MIL-S-44090C Shirt, Woman's, Short Sleeve, Polyester/Cotton, Army Green
415, Durable Press. FSC 8410
MIL-S-44092B (1) Slacks, Women's: Classic Design, PolyesterAVool. FSC 8410
MIL-S-44093B Shirt, Woman's, Long Sleeve, Polyester/Cotton, Army Green
415, Durable Press. FSC 8410
MIL-S-44102B Skirt, Woman's, Classic Design, PolyesterAVool. FSC 8410
MIL-C-44107C Cover, Ground Troops-Parachutists Helmet. FSC 8415
MIL-S-44110B Slacks, Maternity, Utility Work Uniform. FSC 8410
48
Govemment/Military Standards and Specifications
49
Govemment/Military Standards and Specifications
Food Handler's/Processor's
A-A-91B Apron, Food Handlers. FSC 8415
DOD-A-616G Valid Notice Aprons, Food Handlers'. FSC 8415
1
Surgical Gown/Glove/Mask
DOD-C-48E Cap, Operating, Surgical, Green. FSC 6532
A-A-30119A Hood, Operating, Surgical. FSC 6532
A-A-30153 Mask, Surgical. FSC 6515
A-A-30156 Cap, Operating, Surgical (Woman's). FSC 6532
A-A-30188 Mask, Surgical (Sub-Micron). FSC 6515
MIL-M-36168 Mask, Surgiczd, Nonwoven Fabric, Green, Disposable. FSC
6510
MIL-G-36565A Valid Notice 1 Gowns, Operating, Surgical, Cotton, Vest-Type, Green. FSC
6532
MIL-S-36573B (2) Smock, Dental Operating. FSC 6532
MIL-F-36972 Vahd Notice 1 Gown, Operating, Surgical. FSC 6532
MIL-F-36978 (1) Footwear Covers, Disposable, Conductive Plastic Film. FSC
8430.
MIL-T-37030 Valid Notice 1 Trousers, Operating, Surgical Men's, Cotton-Polyester, Static
Resistant. FSC 6532
MIL-S-37039 Valid Notice 1 Shirts, Operating, Surgical, Man's Cotton-Polyester Static
Resistant. FSC 6532
MIL-T-37046 Vahd Notice 1 Trousers, Operating, Surgical, Women's, Cotton-Polyester, Static
Resistant. FSC 6532
MIL-T-37064 Vahd Notice 1 Tunics, Operating, Surgical, Woman's Cotton-Polyester, Static
Resistant, Long Sleeves. FSC 6532
MIL-T-37069 Valid Notice 1 Tunics, Operating, Surgical, Woman's Cotton-Polyester, Static
Resistant, Short Sleeves. FSC 6532
50
Govemment/Military Standards and Specifications
MIL-S-37129 Valid NoUce 1 Shirts, Operating, Surgical, Man's, Cotton, Sleeveless, Style A.
FSC 6532
MIL-S-37130 Valid Notice 1 Shirts, Operating, Surgical, Man's, Cotton, Quarter Length
Sleeves, Style B. FSC 6532
MIL-T-37131 Valid Notice 1 Trousers, Operating, Surgical, Man's Cotton, Green. FSC 6532
A-A-51070A Mask, Surgical. FSC 6515
A-A-51264B Surgical Pack, Gown and Towel. FSC 6532
A-A-51301A Footwear Covers, Operating Room (Disposable). FSC 6532
A-A-51343 Surgical Pack, Lower Extremity. FSC 6532
A-A-51361A Surgical Pack, Gown and Towel. FSC 6532
A-A-51373A Gown Operating, Surgical. FSC 6532
A-A-0053134 Gloves, Surgeons' (Powder-Free, Sterile, Disposable). FSC
6515
A-A-53443 Gown, Operating, Surgical. FSC 6532
A-A-54252 Surgical Pack, Disposable (Arthroscopic). FSC 6530
A-A-54372A Mask, Surgical (Pleated). FSC 6532
A-A-54407 Gown, Operating, Surgical. FSC 6532
A-A-54433 Cap, Operating, Surgical. FSC 6532
A-A-54435 Mask, Wgic^ (Non-Woven Fabric, Pouch). FSC 6515
A-A-54553 Mask, Surgical. FSC 6515
A-A-54791 Gloves, Surgeons', Latex Rubber, Pre-Powdered, Disposable,
Sterile. FSC 6515
A-A-54807 Gloves, Surgeons', Brown-Milled Rubber, Pre-Powdered, Talc-
Free, Disposable, Sterile. FSC 6515
A-A-54870 Caps, Operating, Surgical (Woman's). FSC 6532
51
Govemment/Military Standards and Specifications
52
Govemment/Military Standards and Specifications
Luggage
KK-S-151C Satchels, Physician's. FSC 6532
A-A-584B Valid Notice 1 Case, Generd Utihty (Artificial Leather). FSC 8460
KK-B-650A INT AMD 2 Briefcase (Leather). FSC 8460
MIL-B-829M Bag, Duffel. FSC 8465
53
Govemment/Military Standards and Specifications
Individual Equipment
MIL-F^llD Fasteners, Belt; Clips, End Strap with Hook; and Keepers, Slide.
FSC 8465
MIL-B-833G Belt, Trousers, Cotton Webbing, with Clip. FSC 8440
MIL-C-1002J Case, Field, First Aid Dressing, Leather (Military Police). FSC
8465
A-A-1040A Key Chain, Reel (Door Key and Drill Chuck Keys). FSC 5340
MIL-B-1107G Belt, Individual ^uipment, M-1936. FSC 8465
NAF1197REV2 Tube Pilot's Relief. FSC 1680
MIL-B-1462F Belt, FSC 8440
General Officer's.
MIL-P-1474J Pitons, Mountain. FSC 8465
MIL-C-1476G Creepers, Ice. FSC 8465
MIL-S-1478F Snap Link, Mountain Piton. FSC 8465
MIL-B-1718H Belt, Military Police, 1-3/4 Inch Wide, Man's. FSC 8465
MIL-S-1812C Shelf, Cargo Support, Packboard, Pressed Steel. FSC 8465
MIL-P-1814E Valid Notice 1 Pad, Shoulder, Packboard. FSC 8465
MIL-C-1933G Carrier, Policeman's Club: and Grommet. FSC 8465
MIL-B-2883D Boatswain's Pipe. FSC 8465
MIL-C-3880E Club, Policeman's. FSC 8465
AN8018 Rev A Valid Notice 1 Horn, Flyer's Relief Tube. FSC 4730
AN8019 Rev 1 Valid Notice 1 Tee and Flyer's Relief Tube. FSC 4730
MIL-S-10055D Strap, Packboard: Quick Release. FSC 8465
MIL-P-10941D Valid Notice 1 Packboard, Plywood. FSC 8465
MIL-H-13102D Holder, Cartridge, Belt, Cal. .38, Leather, Black, 6-Round. FSC
8465
MIL-B-17693e (1) Belts, Coats, Man's: Polyester/Wool. FSC 8405
MIL-C-17774A Valid Notice 1 Cover, Bayonet; Scabbard; Cotton Duck, White (with Leather
Tip). FSC 8465
MIL-C-17841B (2) Carrier, Club, Policeman's: Cotton Webbing; White. FSC 8465
MIL-P-17863C (1) Pocket, Ammunition Magazine: Military Police. FSC 8465
MIL-C-17864C Carrier, Pistol Holster: Cotton Duck, \VTiite (MP). FSC 8465
MIL-B-18184B Valid Notice 1 Belt, Coat, Man's, Webbing, Cotton, White. FSC 8440
MIL-S-19206D Sword and Scabbard (Noncommissioned Officers). FSC 8465
54
Govemment/Military Standards and Specifications
MIL-S-40022E Shoulder Strap, Side Arm, Military Pohce, Leather, Black. FSC
8465
MIL-S-40046D Vahd Notice 1 Sling, Hagstaff. FSC 8345
MIL-C-4012E (2) Canteen, Water, Insulated, Corrosion-Resisting Steel, without
Cup and Cover. FSC 8465
MIL-C-40126F Cup, Water Canteen (for Insulated Canteen). FSC 8465
MIL-4013 1C Cover, Water Canteen, Insulated, Cotton Duck. FSC 8465
MIL-F-40165C Reinst Notice 2 Field Pack, Canvas, Combat, M-1961. FSC 8465
MIL-S-43013C Vahd Notice 1 Sling, Universal, Individual Load Carrying. FSC 8465
MIL-C-43103D Canteen, Water, Plastic, with Screw Cap. FSC 8465
MIL-S-43279D Slings, Bag and Carrying: Communications Equipment. FSC
8465
MIL-P-43304C Pack and Harness Assembly, Parachutist's Weapons and
Individual Equipment. FSC 8465
MIL-S-43306B Sling, Bag and Case Carrying, ST-33. FSC 8465
MIL-P-43312C Pocket, Ammunition Magazine. FSC 8465
MIL-R-43323E Rifle Butt Pocket and Strap Assembly. FSC 8465
MIL-S-43489D Shng, Bag and Case Carrying: ST-35. FSC 8465
MIL-C-43603B (1) Canteen, Water, CoUapsible, 2-Quart Capacity. FSC 8465
MIL-F-43673 Vahd Notice 1 Frame, Rucksack, Steel. FSC 8465
MIL-C-43689C Cover, Water Canteen, 2-Quart, Collapsible (with Pile Lining).
FSC 8465
MIL-L-43720C (1) Liner, Field Pack. FSC 8465
MIL-C^3742B Cover, Water Canteen, LC-2. FSC 8465
MIL-P-43756 Packboard, Metal. FSC 8465
MIL-M^3757A Modification Kit, Packboard, Radio Carrying. FSC 8465
MIL-C-43761C Cup, Water Canteen, w/Wire Handle, Corrosion-Resisting Steel.
FSC 8465
MIL-R^3826C Belt, Individual Equipment. FSC 8465
MIL-S-43828A INT AMD 2 Strap, Webbing, Cargo Tie Down, Lightweight Pack Frame, M-
1972. FSC 8465
MIL-S-43829B INT AMD 1 Suspenders, Individual Equipment Belt, LC-1. FSC 8465
MIL-C-43830B INT AMD 1 Cover, Field Pack, Camouflage, LC-1. FSC 8465
MIL-C-43831B INT AMD 1 Carrier, Intrenching Tool, Hand, Folding, Lightweight, Plastic,
LC-1. FSC 8465
MIL-F-43832C (1) Field Pack, Combat, Nylon, Large, LC-1. FSC 8465
MIL-F-43833D Field Pack, Combat, Nylon, Medium, LC-2. FSC 8465
MIL-F-43834E Frame, Field Pack, (Riveted), and Shelf, Cargo Support
(Lightweight), LC-1. FSC 8465
MIL-S-43835E Straps, Pack Frame and Field Pack, Ground Troops. FSC 8465
55
Govemment/Military Standards and Specifications
56
Govemment/Military Standards and Specifications
57
C.6 ISO Standards46
•58
ISO Standards
TEXTILE FIBERS
Reference
180 8159:1987 Textiles —^Morphology of Fibres and Yams— ^Vocabulary.
Bilingual Edition. TC 38.
Physical Properties
ISO 1973:1976 Textiles — ^Determination
of Linear Density of —GravimetricFibres
Method. TC 38/SC 6.
ISO 6741-1 to 4:1989 Textiles — and Yams —
^Fibres of Commercial Mass
^Determination
of Consignments (4 parts). TC 38.
Part 1 Mass Determination and Calculations.
:
Methods
ISO 1130:1975 —Some Methods of Sampling
Textile fibres TC for Testing.
38/SC 6.
ISO 1833:1977 —
Textile Mixtures—
^Binary Fibre Chemical Quantitative Analysis.
TC 38
Amendment 1:1980 ISO 1833:1977 to
180 5088:1976 —
Textiles Mixtures —
^Ternary Fibre TC Quantitative Analysis.
38/SC 6.
ISO 5090:1977 —Methods
Textiles Removal of Non-Fibrous Matter
for the Prior
to Quantitative Analysis of Fibre Mixtures. TC 38.
NATURAL FIBERS
Reference
ISO 6938:1984 Textiles — ^Natural Fibres —Generic Names and Definitions. TC
38.
Wool
ISO 137:1975 Wool —Determination of Diameter— Fibre Microscope ^Projection
Method. TC 38/SC 6.
ISO 920:1976 Wool—Determination of Length (Barbe and Hauter) Using a
Fibre
Comb TC 38/SC
Sorter. 6.
ISO 1136:1976 Wool— of Mean Diameter of
^Determination —Air Fibres
Permeability Method. TC 38/SC 6.
ISO 2646:1974 Wool—^Measurement of Length of the Processed on Fibres the
Worsted System, Using a Fibre Diagram Machine. TC 38/SC 6.
ISO 2647:1973 Wool— of Percentage of Medullated
^Determination by Fibres the
Projection Microscope. TC 38/SC 6.
59
ISO Standards
Cotton
ISO 2403: 1972 —Cotton
Textiles — Fibres of Micronaire Value. TC
^Determination
38/SC 6.
ISO 3060:1974 —Cotton
Textiles — Fibres of Breaking Tenacity of
^Determination
FlatBundles. TC 38/SC 6.
ISO 4911:1980 —Cotton
Textiles —^Equipment and
Fibres Lighting Artificial for
Cotton Classing Rooms. TC 38/SC 6.
ISO 4912:1981 —Cotton
Textiles — of Maturity—
Fibres ^Evaluation ^Microscopic
Method. TC 38/SC 6.
ISO 4913:1981 —Cotton
Textiles — Fibres of Length (Span Length)
^Determination
and Uniformity TC 38/SC
Index. 6.
ISO 8115:1986 Cotton Bales—^Dimensions and TC 72/SC Density. 1.
SYNTHETIC FIBRES
ISO 2076:1989 Textiles —^Man-Made Fibres—Generic Names. TC
—-Determination of Breaking Strength
38.
ISO 5079:1977 Textiles —^Man-Made Fibres
and Elongation of Individual Fibres. TC 38/SC 6.
TEXTILES IN GENERAL
Reference
ISO 139:1973 —
Textiles Atmospheres
Standards Conditioning and for Testing.
TC 38.
ISO 1144:1973 —
Textiles System Designating Linear Density (Tex
^Universal for
Systems). TC 38.
ISO 2947:1973 —
Textiles Conversion Table
^Integrated Replacing for Traditional
Yam Numbers by Rounded Values Tex System. TC in the 38.
ISO 3758:1991 —Care Labeling Code Using Symbols. TC—38/SC
Textiles 11.
ISO 4880: 1994 Burning Behavior of Textiles and Textiles Products ^Vocabulary.
Bilingual Edition. TC 38/SC 19.
Amendment 1 1992 to ISO 4880: 1984.
:
60
ISO Standards
Colorfastness
180 105-A01 to Z02: 1978-93 Textiles — ^Tests for Colour Fastness (69 parts). TC 38/8C 1.
61
ISO Standards
(Mild).
Part N04: Colour Fastness to Bleaching : Sodium Chlorite
(Severe).
Part N05: Colour Fastness to Stoving.
Part P: Colour Fastness to Heat Treatments.
Part POl: Colour Fastness to Dry Heat (Excluding Pressing).
Part P02: Colour Fastness to Pleating : Steam Pleating.
Past S: Colour Fastness to Vulcanizing.
Part SOI: Colour Fastness to Vulcanization : Hot Air.
Part S02: Colour Fastness to Vulcanization : Sulfur
Monochloride.
Part S03: Colour Fastness to Vulcanization Open Steam.
:
Salts.
Part Z02: Colour Fastness to Metals in the Dye-Bath Iron and :
Copper.
Physical Properties
ISO 2960:1974 Textiles —
Determination of Bursting Strength and Bursting
—
Distension ^Diaphragm Method. TC 38.
ISO 3071:1980 Textiles —
^Determination of pH of the Aqueous Extract. TC 38.
62
ISO Standards
YARNS
Reference
ISO 1139:1973 Textiles—Designations of Yams. TC38.
ISO 2:1973 Textiles— of
^Designation of Twist
the Direction Yams and in
Related TC 38/SC
Products. 6.
150 8159:1987 Textiles—^Morphology of and Yams—
Fibres ^Vocabulary.
— TC
Bilingual Edition. 38.
ISO 8160:1987 Textiles Filament Yams—Vocabulary. BUingual
^Textured
Edition. TC 38.
ISO 10132:1993 Textiles— Filament Yams—
^Textured Definitions. Bilingual
Edition. TC 38/SC 5.
ISO 10290:1993 Textiles—Cotton Yams— TC 38/SC
Specifications. 22.
Physical Properties
ISO 2061:1973 Textiles—^Determination of Twist Yams—Skein Method. TC
in
38/SC 6.
150 2062:1993 —Yams from Packages—Determination of Single-End
Textiles
Breaking Force and Elongation Break. TC 38/SC
at 5.
ISO 2060:1972 —Yams from Packages—
Textiles of Linear Density
^Determination
(Mass per Unit Length)—Skein Method. TC 38/SC 5.
ISO 6939:1988 —Yams from Packages—Method of Test Breaking
Textiles for
Strength of Yam by Skein Method. TC 38/SC
the 5.
ISO 6741-1 to 4:1987-89 —
Textiles and Yams—Determination of Commercial Mass
^Fibres
of Consignments (4 parts). TC 38.
Part 1: Mass Determination and Characteristics.
Part 2: Methods for Obtaining Laboratory Samples.
Part 3: Specimen Cleaning Procedures.
Part 4: Values Used for the Commercial Allowances and the
Commercial Moisture Regains.
TEXTILE FABRICS
Reference
ISO 2959:1973 —^Woven Fabric
Textiles Descriptions. TC 38/SC 20.
ISO 3572:1976 Textiles—Weaves— ^Definitions of General Terms and Basic
Weaves. TC 38/SC 20.
63
ISO Standards
Physical Properties
ISO 675:1979 Textiles —^Woven Fabrics—^Determination of Dimensional Change
on Commercial Laundering Near the Boiling Point. TC 38/SC 2.
Technical Corrigendum 1:1980 to ISO 675:1979.
ISO 811:1981 Textile Fabrics —
^Determination of Resistance to Water
Penetration —
^Hydrostatic Pressure Test. TC 38/SC 2.
ISO 2649:1974 Wool —
^Determination of Short-Term Irregularity of Linear
Density of Slivers, Rovings and Yams, by Means of an Electronic
Evenness Tester. TC 38/SC 6.
ISO 3005:1978
ISO 3801:1977 Textiles— —
^Woven Fabrics ^Determination of Mass per Unit
Length and Mass per Unit Area. TC 38.
ISO 3932: 1976 Textiles— —
^Woven Fabrics ^Measurement of Width of Pieces. TC
38.
ISO 3933:1976 Textiles—^Woven Fabrics—^Measurement of Length of Pieces.
TC 38.
ISO 4920:1981 Textiles—^Determination of Resistance Surface Wetting (Spray
to
Test) of Fabrics. TC 38/SC 2.
ISO 5081:1977 Textiles—^Woven Fabrics—^Determination of Breaking Strength
and Elongation Method). TC
(Strip 38.
ISO 5082:1982 Textiles—^Woven Fabrics—Determination of Breaking Strength
Grab Method. TC 38.
ISO 5084:1977 Textiles—Determination of Thickness of Woven and Knitted
Fabrics (Other than Floor Coverings). TC
Textile 38.
ISO 7771:1985 Textiles— of Dimensional Changes of
^Determination Fabrics
Induced by Cold-Water Immersion. TC 38/SC 2.
ISO 9073-1 to 5:1989 Textiles— Methods Nonwovens
^Test for TC (4 parts). 38.
Part Determination
1: of Mass per Unit Area.
Part 2: Determination of Thickness.
Part 3: Determination of Tensile Strength and Elongation.
Part 4: Determination of Tear Resistance.
ISO 9290:1990 Textiles —Woven Fabrics —
^Determination of Tear Resistance by
the Falling Pendulum Method. TC 38.
64
ISO Standards
Thermal Properties
ISO 6940:1984 Textiles Fabrics —Burring Behaviour—Determination of Ease of
Ignition of Vertically Oriented Specimens. TC 38/SC 19.
Amendment 1:1993 to ISO 6940:1984.
ISO 6941:1984 Textile Fabrics —
^Burning Behaviour —
Determination of Flame
Spread Properties of Vertically Oriented Specimens. TC 38/SC
19.
Amendment 1:1993 to ISO 6941:1984.
ISO 9866-1 to 2:1991 Textiles — Effect of Dry Heat on Fabrics Under Low Pressure (2
parts). TC 38/SC 2.
Part 1: Procedure for Dry-Heat Treatment of Fabrics.
Part 2: Determination of Dimensional Change in Fabrics Exposed
to Dry Heat.
ISO 10047:1993 Textiles —Determination of Surface Burning Time of Fabrics.
Appearance
ISO 2313:1972 Textiles —
Determination of the Recovery from Creasing of a
Horizontally Folded Specimen of Fabric by Measuring the Angle
Recovery. TC 38.
ISO 7768:1985 Textiles—^Method Assessing Appearance of Durable
for the
Fabrics After Domestic Washing and Drying.
ISO 9867:1991 Textiles— of Wrinkle Recovery of
^Evaluation Wrinkle the
Recovery of Fabrics—^Appearance Method. TC 38/SC 2.
ROPES
Reference
ISO 1968:1973 —
Ropes and Cordage ^Vocabulary. Bilingual Edition. TC 38.
ISO 3505:1975 —
Ropes an Cordage ^Equivalence Between Natural Fibre Ropes
and Man-Made Fibre Ropes for Use in the Mooring of Vessels.
Physical Properties
ISO 2307:1990 Ropes — ^Determination of Certain Physical and Mechanical
Properties. TC 38.
ISO 3090:1974 — —
Ropes and Cordage ^Netting Yams Determination of Change in
Length After Immersion in Water. TC 38.
Specifications
ISO 9554:1991 Fibre Ropes —General Specification. TC 38.
ISO 1969:1990 — —
Ropes ^Polyethylene Specification. TC 38.
ISO 1140:1990 — —
Ropes Polyamide Specification. TC 38.
ISO 1141:1990 — —
Ropes Polyester Specification. TC 38.
ISO 1181:1990 — —
Ropes ^Manila and Sisal Specification. TC 38.
ISO 1346:1990 — —
Ropes Polypropylene Specification. TC 38.
ISO 4167: 1979 —
Ropes and Cordage Sisal Agricultural Twines. TC 38.
ISO 4878:1991 Textiles —
^Flat Woven Webbing Slings Made of Man-Made
Fibres. TC 38.
65
ISO Standards
Reference
180 1957:1986 —
Machine-Made Textile Floor Coverings Sampling and Cutting
Specimens for Physical Tests. TC 38/SC 12.
ISO 2424:1992 Textile Floor Coverings— TC
^Vocabulary. Bilingual Edition.
38/SC 12.
ISO 5086:1977 TextileFloor Coverings—^Hand-Knotted Carpets—Sampling and
Selection of Areas of TC 38/SC
Test. 12.
ISO/TR 6131:1986 TextileFloor Coverings— Walker Apparatus
^Tetrapod
Constructional and
Details Use. TC 38/SC
Instructions for 12.
ISO 6347:1989 TextileFloor Coverings—Consumer TC 38/SC Information. 12.
Physical Properties
ISO 1763:1986 —
Carpets ^Determination of Number of Tufts and/or Loops per
Unit Length and per Unit Area. TC 38/SC 12.
ISO 1765:1986 Machine-Made Textile Floor Coverings ^Determination of —
Thickness. TC 38/SC 12.
ISO 1766:1986 Textile Floor Coverings —
^Determination of Thickness of Pile
above the Substrate. TC 38/SC 12.
ISO 2094:1986 Textile Floor Coverings —
^Determination of Thickness Loss Under
Dynamic Loading. TC 38/SC 12.
ISO 2549:1972 Textile Floor Coverings —
Hand-Knotted Carpets Determination —
of Tuft Length Above the Woven Ground.
Technical Corrigendum 1:1990 to ISO 2549:1972.
ISO 2551:1981 Machine-Made Textile Floor Coverings ^Determination of —
Dimensional Changes Due to the Effects of Varied Water and Heat
Conditions. TC 38/SC 12.
ISO 3018:1974 Textile Floor Coverings— ^Rectangular Textile Floor Coverings
Determination of Dimensions. TC 38/SC 12.
ISO 3415:1986 —
Textile Floor Coverings ^Determination of Thickness Loss After
Brief, Moderate Static Loading. TC 38/SC 12.
ISO 3416:1986 —
Textile Floor Coverings ^Determination of Thickness Loss After
Prolonged, Heavy Static Loading. TC 38/SC 12.
ISO/TR 4918:1990 —
Textile Floor Coverings —
^Determination of Wear Castor Chair
Test. TC 38/SC 12.
180 4919:1978 TextileFloor Coverings— of Tuft Withdrawal
^Determination
Force. TC 38/SC 12.
ISO 8543:1986 TextileFloor Coverings—^Methods Determination of Mass.
for
TC 38/SC 12.
ISO 10833:1992 TextileFloor Coverings— of Mechanical Damage
^Determination at
a Cut Edge— Vetterman Drum Tester Method. TC
^Modified
38/SC 12.
ISO 10834:1992 TextileFloor Coverings—^Non-Destructive Measurement of Pile
Thickness Above the Backing — ^WRONZ Gauge Method. TC
38/SC 12.
ISO 2550:1972 Textile Floor Coverings —^Hand-Made Carpets— ^Determination of
Types of Knots. TC 38/SC 12.
Other Properties
ISO/TR 6356:1982 Textile Floor Coverings —^Assessment of Static Electrical
Propensity— "Walking" TC 38/SC
Test. 12.
ISO 6925:1982 Textile Floor Coverings— Behavior—
^Burning ^Tablet Test at
Ambient Temperature. TC 38/SC 19.
66
———
ISO Standards
TEXTILE MACHINERY
67
ISO Standards
Part 2: Warper's —
Beams ^Terminology and Main Dimensions.
Part 3: Weaver's Beams —
^Terminology and Main Dimensions.
Part 4: Quality Classification of Flanges for Weaver's Beams,
Warper's Beams and Section^ Beams.
Part 5: Sectional Beams for Warp Knitting
—
^Terminology and
Main Dimensions.
Part 6: Beams for Ribbon Weaving and Ribbon Knitting
Terminology and Main Dimensions.
Part 9: Dyeing Beams for Textile Fabrics.
68
ISO Standards
ISO 574:1979 —
Textile Machinery and Accessories Cyhndrical Tubes
Perforated
forCheese Dyeing. TC 72.
ISO 575:1978 TextileMachinery and Accessories— Cones—Half Angle Transfer
of theCone 4 degrees TC 72/SC 20'. 2.
ISO 1472:1977 TextileMachinery and Accessories— Tubes Draw-Cylindrical for
Twisters—Dimensions and Permissible Run-Out. TC 72/SC 1.
ISO 1946:1976 TextileMachinery and Accessories—Condenser Bobbins for
Woollen Spinning—Dimensions. TC 72/SC 1.
69
ISO Standards
70
—
ISO Standards
Knitting Machines
ISO 7839:1984 Textile Machinery and Accessories — Knitting Machines
Classification and Vocabulary. Trilingual Edition. TC 72/SC 3.
ISO 8117:1986 Textile Machinery — Knitting Machines —Nominal Diameters of
Circular Machines. TC 72/SC 3.
ISO 8119-1 to 3:1989 Textile Machinery and Accessories
—^Terminology — ^Needles for Knitting
Machines (3 parts). Trilingual Edition. TC 72/SC
3.
Part 1: Latch-Type Needles.
Part 2: Bearded Needles.
Part 3: Compound Needles.
ISO 8121:1986 Textile Machinery — Knitting Machines —^Nameplate Information.
TC 72/SC 3.
Technical Corrigendum 1:1992 to ISO 8121:1986.
ISO 8122:1988 Textile Machinery —
Knitting Machines —
^Number of Needles for
Circular Knitting Machines of Large Nominal Diameter. TC
72/SC 3.
ISO 8188:1986 Textile Machinery —
and Accessories Pitches of Knitting Machine
Needles. Bilingual Edition. TC 72/SC 3.
ISO 8640-1 to 2:1990 Textile Machinery and Accessories —
Flat Warp Knitting
—
Machines Vocabulary (2 parts). TC 72/SC 3. Trilingual Edition
Part 1: Driving Mechanisms, Supports and Knitting Elements.
Part 2: Warp Let-off, Fabric Take-up and Batching.
ISO 10223:1992 Textile Machinery —
^Flat Warp Knitting Machines ^Numbering of —
Guide Bars. TC 72/SC 3.
71
ISO Standards
LEATHER
ISO 1164:1993 Leather — Adhesion of
^Tests for lULTCS.
Finish.
ISO 2417:1972 Leather —^Determination of Absorption of Water. lULTCS.
ISO 2418:1972 Leather— Samples—
^Laboratory and
^Location Identification.
lULTCS.
ISO 2419:1972 Leather—Condition of Test Pieces Physical
for [Link].
ISO 2420:1972 Leather—Determination of Apparent Density. lULTCS.
ISO 2588:1985 Leather—Sampling—^Number of Items a Gross Sample.
for
lULTCS.
ISO 2589:1972 Leather— Testing—^Measurement of Thickness.
^Physical
lULTCS.
ISO 2820:1974 Leather—^Raw Hides of and Horses—^Method of Trim. TC
Cattle
120
and Horses—
.
72
——
ISO Standards
CLOTHING
Sizing
ISO 3635:1981 Size Designation of Clothes — and Body Measurement
Definitions
Procedure. TC 133.
ISO 3638:1977 Size Designation of Clothes — Garments. TC
Infants' 133.
ISO 3636:1977 Size Designation of Clothes —Men's and Boy's Outerwear
Garments.
Technical Corrigendum 1:1990 to ISO 3636:1977.
ISO 3637:1977 —
Size Designation of Clothes ^Women's and Girl's Outerwear
Garments. TC 133.
Technical Corrigendum 1:1990 to ISO 3637:1977.
ISO 4416:1981 —
Size Designation of Clothes ^Women's and Girls' Underwear,
Nightwear, Foundation Garments and Shirts. TC 133.
Technical Corrigendum 1:1990 to ISO 4416:1981.
ISO/TR 10652:1991 Standard Sizing Systems for Clothes. TC 133.
ISO 41 18: 1978 Size Designation of Clothes —
Gloves. TC 133.
ISO 4417: 1977 Size Designation of Clothes —
Headwear. TC 133.
ISO 7070:1982 Size Designation of Clothes —
Hosiery. TC 133.
—
ISO 5971:1981 Size Designation of Clothes ^Pantyhose. TC 133.
ISO 8559:1989 Garment Construction and Anthropometric Surveys ^Body —
Dimensions. TC 133.
Protective Clothing
ISO 2801:1973 Clothing for Protection Against Heat and Fire General —
Recommendations for Users and for Those in Charge of Such
Users. TC 94/SC 13.
ISO 6529:1990 Protective Clothing —
^Protection Against Liquid Chemicals
Determination of Resistance of Air-Impermeable Materials to
Permeation by Liquids. TC 94/SC 13.
ISO 6530:1990 Protective Clothing —
^Protection Against Liquid Chemicals
Determination of Resistance of Air-Impermeable Materials to
Permeation by Liquids. TC 94/SC 13.
73
ISO Standards
ISO 6942:1993 —
Clothing for Protection Against Heat and Fire ^Evaluation of
Thermal Behaviour of Materials and Material Assemblies When
Exposed to a Source of Radiant Heat. TC 94/SC 13.
ISO 8096-1 to 3:1988-89 Rubber- or Plastics-Coated Fabrics for Water-Resistant Clothing -
STEP47
This listing includes only the STEP initial release. There are many other parts in some stage of the development
and approval process.
74
C.7 NFPA Apparel Standards^s
The following are performance specifications for clothing to protect against hazardous
environments. Most of them relate to fire fighting. The standards are listed in numerical order.
NFPA 1977 Protective Clothing and Equipment for Wddland Fire Fighting
NFPA 1983 Fire Service Life Safety Rope, Harness, and Hardware
75
C.8 SAE AMS Textile Specifications49
These specifications for the most part relate to high performance aramid and para-aramid textile
materials. They are listed in numerical order.
390 IB # Organic Fiber (Para- Aramid), Yam and Roving, High Modulus
(Oct 92)
3901/lB # Yam, Organic Fiber (Para- Aramid), High Modulus, OY 390
(2689)/23.5 Tensile Strength, 18 (125)/982 Tensile Modulus, 195
Denier, 0.6% Finish (Oct 92)
3901/2B # Yam, Organic Fiber (Para- Aramid), High Modulus, OY 390
(2689)/24.5 Tensile Strength, 17.5 (121)/934 Tensile Modulus,
380 Denier, 0.6% Finish (Oct 92)
3901/3B # Yam, Organic Fiber (Para- Aramid), High Modulus, OY 390
(2689)/25.5 Tensile Strength, 16.5 (1 14)/900 Tensile Modulus,
1140 Denier, 0.6% Finish (Oct 92)
3901/4B # Yam, Organic Fiber (Para-Aramid), High Modulus, OY 390
(2689)/24.3 Tensile Strength, 18 (125)/982 Tensile Modulus,
1420 Denier, 0.6% Finish (Oct 92)
3901/5B # Yam, Organic Fiber (Para- Aramid), High Modulus, OY 450
(3103)/23.0 Tensile Strength, 17.5 (121)/780 Tensile Modulus,
7100 Denier, 0.6% Finish (Oct 92)
3901/6B # Yam, Organic Fiber (Para- Aramid), High Modulus, OY 500
(3447)/23.5 Tensile Strength, 7.5 (121)/800 Tensile Modulus,
4560 Denier, 0.6% Finish (Oct 92)
3901/7A# Yam, Organic Fiber (Para- Aramid), High Modulus, OY 390
(2689)/21.5 Tensile Strength, 16.5 (114)/825 Tensile Modulus,
2160 Denier, 0.6% Finish (Oct 92)
3901/8A# Yam, Organic Fiber (Para- Aramid), High Modulus, OY 390
(2689)/21.5 Tensile Strength, 18 (124)/982 Tensile Modulus, 195
Denier, 1.2% Finish (Oct 92)
3901/9A# Yam, Organic Fiber (Para- Aramid), High Modulus, OY 390
(2689)/24.5 Tensile Strength, 17.5 (121)/934 Tensile Modulus,
380 Denier, 1.2% Finish (Oct 92)
3901/10A # Yam, Organic Fiber (Para- Aramid), High Modulus, OY 390
(2689)/23.6 Tensile Strength, 16.5 (il4)/885 Tensile Modulus,
1140 Denier, 1.2% Finish (Oct 92)
3901/1 lA# Yam, Organic Fiber (Para- Aramid), High Modulus, OY 390
(2689)/22.2 Tensile Strength, 16.5 (114)/870 Tensile Modulus,
1420 Denier, 1.2% Finish (Oct 92)
390 1/1 2A# Yam, Organic Fiber (Para- Aramid), High Modulus, OY 390
(2689)/21.5 Tensile Strength, 16.5 (114)/870 Tensile Modulus,
1420 Denier, 1.2% Finish (Oct 92)
76
SAE AMS Textile Specifications
DODISS adpotion means that the document has been coordinated by the tri-services and is approved for military
use.
77
SAE AMS Textile Specifications
3907/2 Cloth, Aramid, 4.3 oz per sq. yd (145g/m2), Plain Weave (Oct
85)
3908A Cloth, Aramid (Para), Plain Weave, Thermally Stable (Jan 92)
3909 Cloth, Parachute, Aramid, Intermediate Modulus (Jul 85)
3909/1 Cloth, Parachute, Aramid, 3.0 oz per sq. yd (100 g/m^), 350 lb
per in. (61,300 N/m) (Jul 85)
3909/2 Cloth, Parachute, Aramid, 2.25 oz per sq. yd (75 g/m^), 250 lb
per in. (43,800 N/m) (Jul 85)
3909/3 Cloth, Parachute, Aramid, 2.0 oz per sq. yd (68 g/m^), 230 lb per
in. (40,275 N/m) and 220 lb per in. (38,525 N/m) (Jul 85)
78
D GLOSSARY50
This glossary contains terms common to the fiber, textile, and apparel sectors of the FTA industry,
and some terms appearing in the titles of standards listed in Appendix C FTA Standards Listing. :
beam A cylinder of wood or metal on which the warp from the warping
machine is wound before weaving; it is called the yam beam or
weaver's beam, backbeam or section beam.
chambray 1. A plain woven cotton or linen fabric with colored warp and
white filling that gives a mottled colored surface; used for shirts,
children's clothes, and dresses.
2. A similar but heavier carded yam fabric used for work-shirts
and children's play clothes.
The entries in this glossary were obtained from the following references (some entries have been modified):
Link, 1954.
The Riverside Publishing Company, 1984.
79
form and also in the form, "colour fastness," in the standards
listings.)
80
desizing The process of eliminating from grey
sizing (stiffening materials)
goods preparatory dyeing etc. The sizing substance
to bleaching,
is first made soluble by an acid or enzyme, then washed out.
carding machine.
2. Various processes, including giling, reducing, and roving, by
which slivers are converted into rovings of the required thiclmess
for spinning.
niament 1. A
thread or threadlike object, an appendage or a separate fiber;
the extreme length of filaments permits their being used in a yam
without twist or with very low twist, and they are usually made
into yam without the spinning operation required for fibers.
2. The single individual unit which is extracted by the silkworm or
by the spinneret.
3. Continuous filaments are synthetic and regenerated fibers which
have a short staple.
4. Monofilament is a simple filament of sufficient size to function
as a yam in normal textile operation.
5. Multifilament is a rayon yam with a very large number of fine
filaments.
flax A plant cultivated for its fibers; the long silky bast fiber freed from
the stemby retting and various mechanical processes is used in the
manufacture of a thread which is woven into a cloth generally
known as linen.
81
hand/handle (fabric) The reactionto the sense of touch, when raw material or goods are
grasped in the hand to judge their quality, taking into account
especially their fineness and softness.
Havelock A cloth covering for a cap, with a flap to cover and protect the
back of the neck.
hemp A plant cultivated for its touch bast fibers, which is obtained
similarly to flax; it is used for making cloth and cordage.
kemp Thick opaque and wavy fibers with a pointed tip and root, which
are shed periodically into the fleece; they develop in nearly all
breeds of sheep but principally in mountainous and carpet wool
types. They greatly reduce the value of the wool because of the
inferior spinning properties; they do not show up dyes.
medullated (wool) This differs from tme kemp because it is not shed but grows with
the wool; it is distinguished by the coarser diameter of the
medullated cells.
82
3. Little knots formed in cotton by immature fibers in the wool
staple.
nonwovens Materials, such as felts, which undergo neither the weaving nor
the knitting process. Such fibers may be forced together and the
cohesion produced by that process is enough for the intended
applications.
shaped conically.
2. Yam wound on the weaver's shuttle.
83
slashing A process in which sizing is applied to warp threads in their full
width; it is used to size the warp yarn with a starch or like
substance that will lay all the fibers parallel, and add strength to
the yam; this enables to go through weaving without damage.
vulcanization A process that increases the strength, resiliency, and freedom from
stickiness of a material by combining it with sulfur or other
additives in the presence of heat and pressure.
84
weaving (con’t) 2. A particular pattern
or design of weaving such as plain, twill,
hopsack, etc.
satin, herringbone,
3. Cross weaving is a style of weaving which produces open
work effects such as seen in gauze and lenos; it is produced by
crossing one warp thread with another, first to one side and then
to the other in some definite order.
weft The thread which is thrown through the warp at right angles by
means of a shuttle; it is, as a rule, softer spun and weaker than
warp yam.
85
E LIST OF ACRONYMS
The following is a list of key acronyms used in this paper. Many of them refer to organizations. A
brief description and contact information for these organizations can be found in Appendix B: FTA
Standards Organizations.
EC European Community
86
SRD Standard Reference Data
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