Intricacies of Sewing

Tape Measure Reading

- Each of the spaces denote 1/8, and there are 8 spaces to an inch.
-The first stick denote 1/8 and adding the next stick to it gives us ¼.
-The next stick to 1/4 gives 3/8
-Progressively as you add 1/8 to the initial value gives the value of the next stick
-Further instruction will be given in class.

Pattern Drafting
It is means of creating design on flat paper using the measurement of human body
or body form as a guide.
Basic Types of Pattern Cutting
(1) Free hand cutting
(2) Pattern cutting
(3) Knock off cutting
(4) Dropping pattern
Free Hand Cutting: Does not deal with paper and it's done mostly by tailors in the
industry and it is done directly on the fabrics.
Knock off Cutting: Simply copying an already existing or new design on a fabrics
or paper.

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Paper Pattern Drafting: This is the creating of designs following a creating
templates, before tracing it out or assembling them.
Pattern Drafting: Is carried out is carried out on a body form allowing the
creative design of fashion designers.

The Importance of Pattern Cutting

 It allows almost perfection while cutting
 It allows correction of mistakes on pattern paper before transferring to your
fabrics.
 It is mostly used when creating ready to wear designs

Disadvantage
- It is time consuming
- Technical
- Requires a lot of calculations
- It Requires accuracy

STITCHES
- Running stitch
- Back stitch
- Caich stitch
- Gathered stitch
- Chain stitch

Body Measurement
- Length (L)
- Shoulder/ back (B)

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- Bust (Bur)
- Waist (Wai)
- Sleeve (SL)
- Cuff (CU)
- Under bust (UB)
- Half length (1/2L)
- Hip (h)
- Nipple to nipple (N-N)

Skirts
Basic Skirt
Measurements needed (in inches)
- Skirt length
- Waist
- Hip
- Hip depth

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 Divide your hip measurement into 2,
 Mark half Hip measurement across your pattern i.e F – B
 Measure your hip depth from your waist line downward as shown in your
diagram.
 The square your hip depth across the front & back pattern forming your hip line.

Dart Formation
- On your waistline, mark out your N-N measurement divide by 2 for both the front
& back pattern
NOTE
 Your dart legs for the front is Shorter by 0.5 inch than the back Dart leg i.e. the
back Dart leg is longer than the front.
 Your dart leg is always between 5 inches long from your waist line or 2 inches
away from the hip line
 Divide your waste measurement by 4 plus 1 inch for Dart allowance and this is
marked on both the front and back pattern.
- On your N-N line, mark 0.5 in on either side of your N-N to form your dart for
your front pattern.
- For your back pattern, mark 1/4 inch on either side for of N-N line and the
remaining 0.5 inch is marked on your CB.
- On your hem line, on your SB & SF come in by inch
- Connect your waist to your hip using Curve ruler and your hip line to your hem
line using straight ruler for both front and back pattern.

Circle Skirts

Half Circle Skirts

 The formula for calculating your waist circumference is

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 Waist  waist circumference measurement
6.28
- This type of circle skirt does not have much fullness and it is folded in a bias
form when cutting
- Or you slash and spread your basic skirt

Full-Circle Skirt
- Waist  for a full single circle
6.28
- The waist circumference measurement is added to your skirt length plus 1 inch
seam allowance but if your skirt is having a band, you remove your band
measurement from your skirt length
- The fabrics is folded in 4 even piece before tracing your waist circumference
measurement.

Gathered Skirt
 The waist measurement is multiplied by minimum of 3 times depending on the
fullness you desire to achieve
 The length of the Skirt is measured plus 1 inch seam allowance
 The waist is gathered back using a gathered stitch

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- Draft your basic skirt pattern
- A-line is achieved in two ways
(a) Slashing your basic skirt from the N-N line to your hem line & then spreading
(b) Adding fullness (minimum of 6 inch) on your SB & SF then connect to your
waistline as shown in the diagram.
(c)For more fullness, both A and B can be done.
 The hem line towards the SB & SF go up by 0.5 inch then connect back to your
hem line.

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- The armhole measurement determines the sleeve width, the armhole
measurement is derived in two ways
(a) Either by measuring the armhole of your dress form or human
(b) By measuring armhole circumference on your bodice.
- The Crown depth: is always an important value to consider. This determine the
sleeve cap
The Crown depth is always between 4-5 inches depending on the body size

Drafting Procedure
- Determine your armhole measurement and fold into two, the midline of the field

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becomes our LINE T
- The left part of line T becomes THE BACK and the right part of line T becomes
THE FRONT
- Then measure your sleeve length
- connect Line T to B as shown above & line T to F with a straight ruler.
- Find the mid of T – B and mark as M repeat for the other side
- Find the mid of B-M, M-T, T-M, and M- F, and mark as B1, Ta, Tb & F,
respectively.
- On B1 go in from the line by 1/2 inch;
- On Ta move out from the line by 1/2 inch
- On TB move out from the line by 1/2 inch
- And F1 go in from the line by 3/4 inch
- Then connect the points together using a curve ruler
- On your sleeve length, get your sleeve round, measure your sleeve round and
Mark on either side of line t and then connect to your crown depth on your sleeve
back and front
- Repeat the above procedure for short, and 3/4 sleeve length.

Cap Sleeve

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- Trace your basic sleeve and on your line T, measure your cap sleeve
measurement which is always between 3– 5 inch long.
- Measure your desire cap sleeve circumference and Mark on either side
- Then connect the point of your armhole circumference to line T & do a tightening
of inch of either side of line T then close the tightening

Basic Bodice

Measurement Needed
- Length to the upper hip
- Back/shoulder
- bust circumference

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- Waist length
- Nipple to nipple
Front Pattern
- To draft your dartless bodice, your biggest measurement (often hip) is divided
into two
- The half is used to Mark your workspace
- Mark your back or Shoulder measurement
- Draft your basic neckline
Note: Your front basic neckline is always 2.5 by 2 3/4 for normal body size that is
2 1/2 front neck width (horizontally) and 2 3/4 is your front neck depth (vertically).
*Plus size is always 3 1/2 by 3 3/4
- Form your shoulder slope
- From the point you Mark your shoulder measure, cone down by 1/2-1 inch and
connect to your neck point as seen below

- To get your bust line, you divide your bust circumference by 6 and you are 2.5 "
I.e. bust circumference / 6 + 2.5" = bustline
- From your shoulder point measure show your bust line measure. Measure and
connect across.
(b) The bust line is gotten by measure between 7 1/2 - 8 1/2 from your shoulder
point for normal body size and 8 1/2 - 10" for plus size.

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- The line from your SP to your bust line vertically is your armhole line and the
connection horizontally horizontally forms the bust line.

- Then divide the armhole line by two and go in from that midpoint by 5/8 on your
front pattern (armhole tightening).
- Using your Protractor; find angle 45° on the right angle formed by armhole line
and BL
- From angle 45°, go out by 1/2-2 inch to the point together to form your armhole
Curve.
- Measure your waist length from your neck point and also the length of the bodice
find connect horizontally.
- On your waistline Mark quarter of your waist circumference. plus 1 inch (dart
allowance).
- On your hemline, mark quarter of your hip circumference.
- On your bust line, Mark quarter of your bust circumference and connect the
point.
- On your Center front, measure your N-N measurement divide by 2 and rule
vertically
*Note: Your dart length is between 9-11 inches
- Measure your dart length on either side on the waist line and divide your dart
allowance on either side of your N-N line.

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 Back Pattern
- Repeat the same procedure as that of the front pattern
- The slight difference of the two is the armhole tightening measurement and the
basic neckline measurement
*The basic neck line is 2 1/2 by 3/4 i.e. basic neck width is 21/2 while basic neck
depth is 3/4 for normal body size
*3 1/2 for basic neck width and 1 inch for basic neck depth for plus size.
*The armhole tightening for back pattern is 1/2 inch
*On our Center back, back tightening is done to prevent bulging of our zipper and
its done by going in by 1/2 inch on your waistline on your centre back.
- It is connected to your neckline and the hem line as seen in the diagram

Dress Bodice

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 Drafting
- The drafting is the same with bodice, the difference is as follows;
*The hip length is used in dress bodice as hip line while the bodice don't have hip
line.
- The dress length is used as the hemline as the bodice but quarter of the hip
circumference minus 1 inch is marked on the hem line on like the bodice where
quarter of hip is just marked.
- The same procedure is used for both front and back pattern

Measurements Needed
- Length of the dress
- Back
- Bust circumference (BC)
- Waist circumference (WC)
- Half length
- Waist length
- Hip length and hip circumference (HC)
- Nipple to nipple (n-n)
- Under bust length and under bust circumference

Necklines
Types of necklines
- Round neckline
- V-shaped neckline
- Cowl neckline
- Boat neckline

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- Asymmetric neckline

Round Neckline
- From NP, go in by 1 in shoulder slope and along the neck depth go in by 1 inch
from your basic neckline.

V-Shaped Neckline
- On your NP, go in by 2 - 21/2 inch toward the shoulder slope and along the neck
depth by your desire length and connect with a curve ruler.
Note: Whatever you do in your shoulder slope for the front pattern is done to the
back pattern too.

Boat Neckline
- Boat neckline always have the same effect on both the front and back pattern
- From your shoulder point, go in by 2 - 2 1/2 inch and on your neck depth on your
Center front and back come down by one inch

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 Asymmetric Neckline
- The asymmetric neckline is a type of neckline that has only one sleeve
- Draft your full front and back and whatever you do on the front is done on the
back

Cowl Neckline
- Draft your bodice either half or whole bodice depending the style

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- You slash and spread depending on your desired Style.

Wrap Top
- Draft your full bodice or full bodice to the waist and draft your v-shaped neckline
depending on your style.
- Connect your neckline to your waist, or your hem depending on your style.
- The back pattern is done as normal

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 Peplum Top
- Draft your half bodice and circle flare with your waist to hem length
measurement
- Choose your neckline Styles
- And on your center back on your waist line go up by 3/4 inch and connect it to
the side back. This is also a way of tightening your back

Trouser
Measurements needed
- Trouser length
- Hip
- Knee length and round
- Trouser mouth
- Waist
- Hip length

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- Thigh/lap
- Crotch measure

Drafting of the Front Pattern

- Form your workspace, from your horizontal line, come down by 0.5 inch and rule
horizontally and this line will serve as your waistline, then you take your
horizontal measurement.
- From your waist line measure your hip length and rule horizontally, and mark as
your hip line.
- From your waist again, measure your crotch measurement and also rule
horizontally too.
Note: "the crotch measurement" is taking either by sitting on a flat surface and
measure from your waist to the hem of the flat surface or
- By dividing your hip measurement by 4 and you add 0.5 inch allowance to the
value, the 0.5 inch serve as an ease and it's optional.
- The Thigh line is always about 3 inches from the crotch line, measure and rule
horizontally.
- Take your waist to knee measurement and rule horizontally.
- Measure your trouser length from your waist and rule as others.

PART B
- On your hip line, divide your hip round by 4 and add 1/4 inch to the value, then
mark it on your hip line, waist and Crotch line respectively and connect the point
using a straight ruler.
- Then you divide the waist measurement by 4 plus 1/4 inch as dart allowance then
mark the value from "line G" inward.
- Then connect your waist to hip line using a curve ruler.
- To get the allowance of your crotch, measure your hip line and divide the value
by 4, then mark it outside line G.

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- Then connect your crotch to your waist to form your crotch curve.
- To find the midline of your trouser, measure whatever you have on your crotch
line, then divide it by two (that forms the midline) then connect to your waist and
your hem trouser mouth.
- Then your thigh measurement divide by 2 and the value is marked on either side
of your midline, repeat the process for knee and trouser mouth respectively. The
connecting your hips Curve and curve ruler.
- Add your hem-allowance 1.5 - 2 1/2 inch at the trouser mouth. It is known as
your "fold".

Dart Creation
- On you midline/center line, come down by 4 inches and on your waistline, mark
0.5 inch on either side of your center line and connect to your 4 inches Dart length.

Continuation Back Pattern

- Trace your front pattern on another pattern paper the Mark out the trace.
(Duplicate your front pattern)

Pocket Formation for the Front

- On your waist measure about 6 to 7 inch long and 2 1/4 inch wide and connect
depending on the Style of the pocket.

Back Pattern
- Along your crotch line, out by 2 inches and on the line G go up by 1.5 inch then
connect the crotch to the 1.5 inch extension.
- On the SB, add about 1 inch around the SB and from the crotch line down to the
hem, add 1 - 1.5 inch and connect.
- Then mark 3 inches from the waist down and connect to the midline and (center
line) in a straight line then mark 0.5 inch on either side slant line then connect to
form your dart

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The other materials you need are
- The zipper Flaps
- Band
- The pocket facing

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 Kimonos
- Draft your bodice dress pattern depending on your StylesNote: Kimonos are
outfit with sleeve drafted together on bodice and sometimes the sleeve can be
separate.
*It is loose fit outfit and mostly with zippers
*Kimonos can be dress, top or jacket.

For a dress
- Draft your dress pattern as earlier said
- On your bust, waist, hip and hem line add an ease allowance (this is to make the
dress extra free on the body) of a minimum of 3 inches on the those line.
- Draft out your Desire neckline Styles and from your neck point, sleeve length
across (NB: Sleeve length, you subtract the neckline measurement) and Mark the
point.
- On your shoulder point, go up by 1/2 inch, then connect your NP to the 1/2 inch
raised on your SP and then to your sleeve length.
- To find your sleeve round measurement,
Your sleeve round + 3 (ease allowance) (minimum of 3) = value (that new Value
divided by two) is your new sleeve round e.g of 12 + 3 = 15 / 2 = 7.5
7.5 is the half of your new sleeve round to be used.

- Then measure the half of the sleeve round,

- On your armhole point or Bust line, go down by minimum of 3 and then connect
to your sleeve round as seen in the diagram.

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 Back Pattern
- Repeat the same procedure for the back

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 Kimono Jacket
- Kimono jacket can either be fitted or lose depending on Styles.
- For loose kimono jacket, repeat the procedure as that of your kimono dress but if
fitted the ease allowance on the bust, waist, hip and hem line will not be added.
Note: The back pattern will be on fold when cutting the fabrics while the center
front will be slashed open.

Note: Kimono Jacket can sometimes have it sleeves not drafted to the bodice.
- For this kind of dress, the SP is not raised and the armhole remains intact.
- There is no alteration on the bust line either.
- Maintain your bodice and draft your Desire sleeve

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- Slash the CF and fix your desire sleeve to your bodice after joining your
shoulder.

Kimono Tops
- Kimono tops follow the same procedure as the dress

- You style your tops as Desire following same procedure as shown above for your
kimono top jacket and normal tops.

Boubous
- This is an extra free outfit
- Your bodice is not necessarily needed for this design
- The front and back pattern is cut together depending on your Design
- The outfit is cut based on the Desire design you want
- Further Instructions will be given in class.

Shirred/Smock Dress
- Your basic bodies; slash out your dart
- On your CF extra allowance of about 4 - 10 inch on your choice.
- Add your seam allowance on your side bodice.
- Determine your neckline Styles
- Add your Fold allowance at the hem of your pattern.
Note: The front pattern is used for both the front and the back.
- Further instruction about the sewing technique will be given in class.

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 Princess Dart

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 Guideline to Princess Dart To The Armhole
- Draft your dress bodice with dart.
- Connect your nipple to nipple line to the hem of your dress length and also to the
bust line
- Measure round your armhole curve and divide into two
- Then connect the point on your arm hole to your nipple to nipple line along your
bust line and under bust line as seen in the diagram above
- For your under bust tightening
- Measure your under burst length and rule across horizontally
- Measure your under bust line including your dart
- Divide your under bust round by 4
- The quarter of your UB round minus the value on your under bus line, the excess
value is taken from your N-N line if less than 1 inch but if more than 1 inch, the
excess value is divided into two and half is taken from your N-N line on your UB
line and the remaining half on your side front on your under bust line.
I.e 1/4 UB round - UB line
9 - 8 1/4 = 3/4 (taken on your N–N line since <1)
If greater than one, the values divided into two as initially discussed.

Princess dart with Style line (shoulder line)

- Same procedure as that of armhole just that instead of measuring the arm hole
curve the shoulder slope line is measured and divided into two and the marked
point on the shoulder slope is connected to the N-N line on the bust line.
- The procedure of tightening is the same

THE HOOD
- Draft your basic bodice and also trace your front neckline on another pattern
paper, add a notch on the center.

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- Extend your front neckline by 15/8 inch in a straight line.
- Then trace your back neckline on your front neckline
Note: That's your front neckline must be on an opposite direction i.e.

- Then on the center front, mention the length of your hood, NB: The longer the
length the bigger it sit around your neck
- Then horizontally extend the line
- Measure about hood depth divide by 2 from the CF and connect in a curve ruler
to 1/4 of the initial horizontal line then to the center back
- Then Mark your fold line and add 1/2 inch seam allowance around the hood.

Measurements needed
- Front neckline

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- Back neckline
- Hood height
- Hood depth

Note: Go in by 1/2-1 inch on your Center front depth to have a fitted Hood

Bomber Jacket
- Draft your basic bodice both front and back
- The width of your bodice has to be the same

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- Go down by 1/2" on your neck depth and connect to your initial NP
- Mark the mid of your armhole and hem and connect with your Curve ruler
- Go up by 3 1/2 from your hem line and 6 inch for your pocket length
- On your center front add your zipper allowance if you want to add zipper

Flounces
These are decorative structures used to add stylish effect to dress, skirt and bodice
Procedure
- Measure an equal length and width of your fabrics
- Find the midpoint and rule along the equal halves
- Determine the width of your flounce
- Determine your starting value which can be between 1.5 inch or 2 inch
- Then measure in a clockwise Direction as seen below

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 SKIRT VARIATION
*Tulip skirt
*Skirt with Godet (pieces skirt)
*Mermaid skirt
Tulip skirt
- Draft your full front skirt pattern, then on your side front come down from the
waist to desired length label as point A then connect point A to the hem line of the
other side or anywhere you want depending on the style you desired to achieve.
Note: The smaller the length, the revealing the tulip skirt will be
- Two of the front pattern is cut and we placed in an overlapping ways
- The back pattern remains the same except you desire to create another designs
with it
- The dart on your front pattern is to be removed.

Skirt with Godet

These are skirts with in panels and the panels have fullness at a particular desired
point.

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It is also known as "pieces skirt"

Drafting
- Draft your basic Skirt pattern
- Increase the length of your desired skirt length, then extend your nipple to nipple
line to The Hem
Measurement needed
- Long skirt length
- Waist
- Hip
- Length of the knee
- Nipple to nipple measurement
- Then measure your length to the knee and rule horizontally
- From your initial knee length, go up by 4 inch and rule horizontally for both front
and back pattern.
- The 4 inch line becomes your new knee line

Front Pattern
On the side front, go in by 1/2 inch on the new line and connect to the hip line with
a curve ruler.

Back Pattern
On the side back, go in by 1/2 inch on the new knee line and connect to the hip line
also with a curve ruler.
- On the your Center back go in by 3/4 or 1 inch on the new knee line and connect
to the hip line respectively using a curve ruler.

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The above process is done to achieve a butt effect on your skirt

For the Godet

- Slash through the nipple to nipple line removing the dart legs
- Determine the amount of fullness which is always a minimum of 3 inch then
connect with a straight ruler to your new knee line
- This is done for both the front and back patterns
- Then and seam allowance about the Panels

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Mermaid skirt

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- Draft your basic skirt pattern
- Repeat same process as of skirt with Godet to create your butt effect

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- The fullness is added on the side front and back and CB also in the case of
mermaid
- On the center back, you can add train to mermaid skirt. Further instruction to
adding trains will be given in class.

Principles of Slash And Spread In Bodice, Sleeves And Skirts

Slash and spread is a technique to adding fullness to the bodice, sleeves and skirts
to create a unique designs.
Further Instructions about this technique will be fully discussed in class

Princess Dart with Necklines

- Princess dart with bust effect
- As earlier discussed, draft your bodice with princess dart
- Under bust tightening
Your tightening is always between 11/2 to 21/2 inches.

- On your under bust line, divide your tightening measurement on either side of
your nipple to nipple line.
- And on your waistline repeat the Princess and connect using a curve ruler as
shown below;

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Properly re-measure your pattern after drafting and necessary allowance is added
to avoid inability to wear your outfit.

Necklines
Built Up Necklines

- Extend your shoulder slope by 1/2 inch and label as a and NP (neck point) go in
by 1/4 inch label as point B
- From point A go up by 1/2 inch and also Mark your desired neckline length on
your CF then connect your extended point A to your neckline and also connect
point A to point B.
- Repeat process for back pattern as connect as seen on the diagram

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 ILLUSION
- Illusion is also known as yolk and it can be tuille, mesh or plain & pattern fabrics.

Draft your basic bodice and then determine length of Your Illusion and recreate a
style line with it and then connect to your armhole.

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 Raglan

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This is a sleeve that enters into the neckline procedure
- From your NP, measure 11/4 inch inward, repeat procedure at the back. Label
point B
Connect to your armhole label as A and then measure the point B to A and point A
to E and record repeat process on the back pattern.

SLEEVE
- Extend line T outward and then measure 11/4 inch on either side of the extended
line T
- Measure your A - E from the sleeve side and then your B - A measurement
meeting your extended line for both the front and backside of the sleeve.
- Then connect as seen above

Extended Off-Shoulder
- Determine how off you want your neckline to be.
- Come down by 2 inch from your shoulder point depending on your desired Styles
then connect to your new neck depth.
- Then extend the lines across your arm hole.
- Measure your bicep and divide by two
- Mark out the value on that extended line come down by 1/2 inch and use Curve
ruler to reconnect the 1/2 inch to your arm hole
- Determine the width of the extended shoulder and mark it in a slightly slant
straight line
- Then connect it back to the mid-armhole using Curve ruler
- Repeat same process for the back pattern

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Diagram below

For Tightening
Extend your N-N line across your neckline and then on either side of the N-N line,
Mark 1/2 inch and then connect back to the N-N line then close the dart before
cutting the fabrics.

BUSTIER
Measurement
- Overbust length

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- Under bust length
- Bust length
- Waist
- Nipple to nipple

- Draft your basic bodice and measure the above measurement and then rule
horizontally
- For your tightening, the underbust & overbust is between 1 1/2 - 21/2 and 2 1/2 -
3 inch for plus size
- Rule your N-N line across all the horizontal line and on your overbust line,
measure your tightening on either side of your N-N, do the same for your
underbust line and then use your curve ruler to connect to your bust line.
- Create your desired neckline, the neckline continues to the back pattern
Note: Bustier is a strapless type of necklines

Diagram

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Further instruction will be given in class

OB:- Over bust

BL:- Bust line
UB:- Under bust
W:- Waist

PANEL DRESS

- Draft your dress pattern and connect your N-N line across your bodice depending
on desired Styles

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- Slash through the N-N line for both pattern
- Add your fullness on your hem and connect to your waistline for all the pattern.

COLLAR
Baby Collar/ Peter Pan
- Connect your back and front pattern together on the shoulder line
- Measure your desired width of baby collar around the neckline then trace out on
another pattern.

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Mandarin Collar
- Connect your shoulder line together has done call Peter Pan collar and then
measure the neckline
- Then use the measurement to draft your collar on your collar stay
- The width of the collar is always between 2 and above depending on style

Two Pieces Collar

Collar stand width is between 11/2inch to 13/4inch
Collar fall width is between 2inch to 2 1/2inch.

Further instruction and sewing technique will be taught in class

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Shirt cuff: Width is always between 21/2 - 3

Further instruction and sewing technique will be taught in class

SHIRT
- Draft your basic bodice
- On your CF, add 3/4 inch allowance for your button allowance and 1 1/2 inch for
your fold allowance
- Connect your neckline to the button and fold allowance as shown below
Note: Your Center back will be on fold

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At the hem, go up by 2 - 3 inch and then connect as seen in the diagram
Note: In creating a shirt dress, some procedures is followed as of your basic shirt.

Jump Suit
- Draft your bodice to your waistline and your trouser pattern from your true waist
point
- Further instruction to creating your jumpsuit will be discussed in class

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