IMPORTANT

INFORMATION
1
Table of Contents
Page Page
General Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-1 Periodic Inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-5
Cowl Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-2 Flushing Outboard Cooling System . . . . . . . 1-5
Propeller Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-2 Following Complete Submersion . . . . . . . . . 1-6
Propeller Selection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-2 Out-of-Season Outboard Storage . . . . . . . . 1-6
Propeller Removal/Installation . . . . . . . . . . . 1-2 How Weather Affects Engine Performance 1-7
Boat Performance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3 Conditions Affecting Operation . . . . . . . . . . . 1-8
Test Instructions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3 Detonation: Causes And Prevention . . . . . . 1-8
Gear Housing Lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-4 Compression Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-9
Serial Number Location . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-9

1-0 - IMPORTANT INFORMATION 90-855906 JUNE 1997

 General Specifications
Model 9.9/15
HORSEPOWER Model 9.9 9.9 (29.4)
(KW) Model 15 15 (37)
OUTBOARD Model 9.9 71 lbs. (32.3 kg)
WEIGHT Model 15 73 lbs. (33.2 kg)
CYLINDER Type 2 Cylinder In-Line
BLOCK Displacement 15.4 cu. in. (252.5 cc)
STROKE Length 1.94 in. (49.2 mm)
CYLINDER Diameter (Standard) 2.25 (57.1 mm)
BORE Taper/Out of Round Max. 0.003 in. (0.0762 mm)
Bore Type Cast Iron Sleeve
PISTON Piston Type Aluminum
Standard Major Dia. - 2.2475 (57.08 mm)
Minor Dia. - 2.2470 (57.07 mm)
REEDS Reed Stand Open (Max.) .006 (0.152 mm)
GEAR Gear Ratio 2:1
HOUSING Gearcase Capacity 6.8 fl. oz. (200 ml)
Forward Gear - No. of Teeth 26 Spiral/Bevel
Pinion Gear - No. of Teeth 13 Spiral/Bevel
FUEL Fuel Gasoline and Oil
SYSTEM Recommended Gasoline Automotive Lead-Free: 87 octane minimum
Recommended Oil Quicksilver TC-W 3 or TC-W II Outboard Oil
Gasoline/Oil Ratio 50:1
IGNITION Type Capacitor Discharge
SYSTEM Spark Plug Type - 9.9 Champion L87YC
Spark Plug Type - 15 Champion L82YC
Spark Plug Gap - 9.9 & 15 0.035 in. (.88 mm)
Optional (Resistor Plug) 9.9/15 RL87YC/RL82YC
Idle RPM (In Gear) 850  50 RPM
Wide Open Throttle (WOT) RPM
9.9 4500-5500
15 5500-6500
Idle Mixture Screw Adjustment 1-1/2 turn out from a lightly seated position
CARBURETOR
Float Setting Set parallel to body flange
Float Drop 5/16 in. (7.93 mm)
Main Jet
– Model 9.9 .049
– Model 15 .070
Maximum BTDC
@ Cranking Speed Not Adjustable
TIMING
@ 5000 RPM Not Adjustable

90-855906 JUNE 1997 IMPORTANT INFORMATION - 1-1

Cowl Removal Propeller Selection
1. Unlock the rear latch by pushing lever down. Select a propeller that will allow the engine to operate
at or near the top of the recommended full throttle
RPM range (listed in “Specifications,” preceding)
with a normal load. Maximum engine speed (RPM)
for propeller selection exists when boat speed is
maximum for that speed. Normally, there is a
150-350 RPM change between propeller pitches. If
full throttle operation is below the recommended
range, the propeller MUST BE changed to one with
a lower pitch to prevent loss of performance and pos-
sible engine damage. After initial propeller installa-
tion, the following common conditions may require
that the propeller be changed to a lower pitch: Warm-
er weather and great humidity will cause an RPM
loss. Operating in a higher elevation causes an RPM
loss. Operating with a damaged propeller or a dirty
boat bottom or gear housing will cause an RPM loss.
Operation with an increased load (additional passen-
gers, equipment, pulling skiers, etc.).
2. Lift rear of cowl and disengage front bracket.

Propeller Removal/Installation

WARNING
To avoid accidental starting, which could result
in personal injury, remove spark plug leads from
spark plugs before working near propeller. Place
a block of wood between the anti-ventilation
plate and propeller to protect hands from propel-
ler blades while tightening propeller nut.

CAUTION
If the propeller moves forward-and-aft on the pro-
peller shaft (is loose), retighten the propeller nut.
Operation with a loose propeller could cause
damage to the thrust hub and gear housing dur-
Propeller Information ing acceleration, deceleration or when shifting
gears.
For in-depth information on marine propellers and
boat performance – written by marine engineers – IMPORTANT: To assure that the propeller re-
see your Authorized Dealer for the illustrated “What mains secure on the shaft during the season, pe-
You Should Know About Quicksilver Propellers riodically check propeller shaft nut for tightness.
and Boat Performance Information” (90-86144). 1. Shift the outboard to neutral position.
2. Remove the spark plug leads to prevent the en-
gine from starting.

1-2 - IMPORTANT INFORMATION 90-855906 JUNE 1997

3. Place a block of wood between gear case and 7. Flo-Torque II Drive Hub Propellers – Install for-
propeller to hold propeller and remove propeller ward thrust hub, propeller, drive sleeve, rear
nut. thrust hub and propeller nut on shaft. Torque pro-
peller nut to 120 lb. in. (14 N·m).

e d

c a
b
a - Forward Thrust Hub
b - Propeller
4. Pull propeller straight off shaft. c - Drive Sleeve
d - Rear Thrust Hub
5. To aid in future removal of the propeller, liberally e - Propeller Nut [Torque to 120 lb. in. (14 N·m)]
coat the propeller shaft spline with one of the fol-
lowing Quicksilver lubricants:
– Special Lubricant 101 Boat Performance
– Anti-Corrosion Grease
– 2-4-C w/Teflon Marine Lubricant TEST INSTRUCTIONS
1. With boat in water, select a tilt pin hole that places
the decal on the side of the outboard cowl(s) in
the horizontal position. This is a typical average
setting that should give reasonable acceleration
and top speed.
2. Go for a short familiarization ride at various
throttle and tilt settings BEFORE starting testing.
3. When making either top speed or acceleration
runs, best accuracy will be obtained by running
with or against any wind. Side winds require driv-
ing in a constant turn to keep the boat moving
6. Flo-Torque I Drive Hub Propellers – Install thrust straight-ahead. If winds are 10 MPH (16 km/hr) or
hub, propeller and propeller nut on shaft. Torque greater, it is suggested that all acceleration runs
propeller nut to 120 lb. in. (14 N·m). be made downwind.
4. The top speed WOT (wide-open-throttle) test
should be done with the boat normally loaded (to
duplicate actual running conditions). Operate
c boat in gear at WOT and check RPM. Engine
RPM must be within the recommended full
throttle RPM range (listed in the General Specifi-
cation Table).
NOTE: When performing an acceleration test, it is
recommended that a stop watch be used to improve
testing accuracy. A wrist watch with a second hand
may also be substituted.
b a

a - Thrust Hub
b - Propeller
c - Propeller Nut [Torque to 120 lb. in. (14 N·m)]

90-855906 JUNE 1997 IMPORTANT INFORMATION - 1-3

5. Prop “break loose” (sudden higher RPM), if not 3. Remove VENT plug and washer (a) and allow all
excessive, in some cases can be beneficial dur- lubricant to drain.
ing acceleration. If undesirable “break loose” oc-
curs, it can be decreased by tilting the outboard
further under. If it remains excessive with all simi-
a
lar propellers, the outboard must be lowered.
6. It is suggested that all applicable data be re-
corded on a chart and retained for future refer-
ence.
7. After several propellers of different pitch and/or
design have been tried, select one that best
serves the general purpose of the boat. The se- b
lected propeller should enable the engine to op-
erate within its recommended full throttle RPM
range, without excessive propeller “break loose”
during acceleration or turns. A second propeller
that would make both a suitable spare or a spe-
cial purpose alternate might also be desirable.
NOTE: A higher pitch often gives best top speed, but
the next lower pitch gives adequate top speed with a - Lubricant VENT Plug/Washer
much better acceleration. b - Lubricant FILL Plug/Washer
4. Inspect gear lubricant for metal particles (lubri-
cant will have a “metal flake” appearance). Pres-
Gear Housing Lubrication ence of fine metal particles (resembling powder)
NOTE: Gear housing lubricant capacity is 6.8 fl. oz. on the FILL plug bar magnet indicates normal
(200 ml). wear. The presence of metal chips on the FILL
plug bar magnet indicates the need for gear
WARNING housing disassembly and components inspec-
tion.
If gear housing is installed on outboard, to avoid
accidental starting, disconnect (and isolate) 5. Note color of gear lubricant. White or cream color
spark plug leads from spark plugs before work- indicates presence of water in lubricant. Gear
ing near the propeller. lubricant which has been drained from a gear
housing recently in operation will have a yellow-
CAUTION ish color due to lubricant agitation/aeration. This
is normal and should not be confused with the
Do not use automotive grease in the gear hous- presence of water.
ing. Use only Quicksilver Premium Blend Gear
Lube or Quicksilver High Performance Gear 6. Presence of water in gear lubricant indicates the
Lube. need for disassembly and inspection of oil seals,
seal surfaces, O-rings, water pump gaskets as
1. Tilt outboard so that lubricant in gear housing will well as gear housing components for damage.
drain toward front of housing, out fill hole and into
clean container. IMPORTANT: Never add lubricant to gear hous-
ing without first removing VENT plug, as trapped
IMPORTANT: Inspect FILL and VENT plug wash- air will prevent housing from being filled. Fill gear
ers for damage. Use new washer as needed. housing only when outboard is in operating posi-
2. Remove lubricant FILL plug and washer (b). tion.
7. With outboard in operating position, insert lubri-
cant tube into fill hole.
8. Fill gear housing until excess lubricant flows from
VENT hole.
9. Install VENT plug and washer (a).
10. Install FILL plug and washer (b).

1-4 - IMPORTANT INFORMATION 90-855906 JUNE 1997

SALT WATER CORROSION - GEAR HOUSING Flushing Outboard Cooling System
BEARING CARRIER AND COVER NUT
Salt water corrosion buildup can be sufficient to split WARNING
a gear housing and destroy an entire lower unit. To To avoid possible injury when flushing, remove
protect against such damage, therefore, it is recom- the propeller.
mended that the gear housing bearing carrier be lu-
bricated on a regular basis, as follows: 1. Install Quicksilver Flushing Attachment (P/N
12612A2) (or equivalent) on the gear housing,
Service first at the 20-hour inspection, then on an positioning the rubber cup over the water intake
annual basis. Remove the entire bearing carrier to opening.
adequately clean corrosive deposits and dried-up
lubricant from both ends of the bearing carrier, as well
as the gear housing. Apply a liberal amount of Quick-
silver Special Lubricant 101; or 2-4-C w/Teflon Ma-
rine Lubricant to the 2 ends of the bearing carrier,
then reassemble and torque to specifications. Refer
to gear housing disassembly and reassembly (Sec-
tion 6).
a
b
Periodic Inspection
Conduct a periodic, systematic inspection to uncover
and correct a failure before it can cause inconve-
nience or mechanical damage. Inspection interval is a - Flushing Attachment (12612A2)
b - Water Hose (1/2 in. [13mm] I.D. or Larger)
based on average operating conditions in recreation
service. Under severe conditions, the inspection in- 2. Connect hose (1/2 in. [13mm] I.D. or larger) be-
terval should be shortened. Inspection includes: tween flushing attachment and water tap.
1. Clean entire unit thoroughly, including all acces- IMPORTANT: To prevent water pump damage, do
sible powerhead parts. not start or run engine unless cooling water is
flowing.
2. Check entire unit for loose, damaged or missing
parts. Tighten or replace as required. 3. With the outboard in normal operating position
(vertical), partially open water tap (IT MAY NOT
3. Lubricate gear housing.
BE NECESSARY to use full water pressure) and
4. Service spark plugs. Inspect spark plug leads adjust water flow so that there is a significant wa-
and electrical leads for damage or deterioration. ter loss around the rubber cups.
5. Inspect fuel lines for damage or deterioration and 4. Start engine and idle in NEUTRAL. Increase en-
service fuel filters. gine speed, not to exceed 2,000 RPM.
6. Remove propeller and inspect. Trim nicks and 5. Flush or service engine as required. Be sure ade-
burrs with a file, being careful not to remove more quate cooling water is provided.
metal than absolutely necessary. Inspect for
a. Water must be discharged thru “tell-tale out-
cracks, damage or bent condition. If condition is
let.”
doubtful, refer to authorized Quicksilver Propeller
Repair Station facilities. Before reinstalling pro- IMPORTANT: Prevent engine overheating. If wa-
peller, coat propeller shaft with Quicksilver Spe- ter flow is insufficient, stop engine and deter-
cial Lubricant 101, Anti-Corrosion Grease or mine cause before continuing.
2-4-C with Teflon Marine Lubricant. b. Flush until discharged water is clear. In salt-
7. Inspect the outboard surface finish for damage or water areas, run outboard 3 to 5 minutes.
corrosion. Thoroughly clean damaged or cor- c. Stop engine before turning off water.
roded areas and apply matching paint (Quicksil-
ver Spray Paints). 6. Stop engine, turn water off and remove flushing
attachment from gear housing.
7. Reinstall the propeller.

90-855906 JUNE 1997 IMPORTANT INFORMATION - 1-5

IMPORTANT: While and after flushing, keep out- 7. Turn engine over (place spark plug openings
board in upright position until all water has down) and pour engine oil into throat of carbure-
drained from drive shaft housing to prevent wa- tor while rotating flywheel to distribute oil
ter from entering the powerhead via drive shaft throughout crankcase.
housing and exhaust ports.
8. Again turn engine over and pour approximately
one teaspoon of engine oil into each spark plug
opening. Again rotate flywheel to distribute oil in
Following Complete Submersion cylinders.
Submerged engine treatment is divided into three 9. Remove and clean carburetors and fuel pump
distinct problem areas. The most critical is submer- assembly.
sion in salt water; the second is submersion while
running. 10. Reinstall spark plugs, carburetor and fuel pump.
11. Attempt to start engine, using a fresh fuel source.
SALT WATER SUBMERSION (SPECIAL If engine starts, it should be run for at least one
INSTRUCTIONS) hour to eliminate any water in engine.
Due to the corrosive effect of salt water on internal 12. If engine fails to start, determine cause (fuel,
engine components, complete disassembly is nec- electrical or mechanical). Engine should be run
essary before any attempt is made to start the en- within 2 hours after recovery of outboard from
gine. water, as serious internal damage may occur. If
unable to start engine in this period, disassemble
SUBMERGED WHILE RUNNING (SPECIAL engine and clean all parts and apply oil as soon
INSTRUCTIONS) as possible.
When an engine is submerged while running, the
possibility of internal engine damage is greatly in-
creased. If, after engine is recovered and with spark Out-of-Season Outboard Storage
plugs removed, engine fails to rotate freely when In preparing an outboard for out-of-season storage,
turning flywheel, the possibility of internal damage 2 precautions must be considered: 1) The engine
(bent connecting rod and/or bent crankshaft) exists. must be protected from physical damage and 2) the
If this is the case, the powerhead must be disas- engine must be protected from rust, corrosion and
sembled. dirt.

SUBMERGED ENGINE (FRESH WATER) 1. Remove cowling from engine.

(PLUS SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS) 2. Place outboard in water or install Quicksilver
1. Recover engine as quickly as possible. Flushing Attachment over water intake by follow-
ing instructions outlined in “Flushing Cooling
2. Remove cowling. System”.
3. Flush exterior of outboard with fresh water to re- 3. Start engine and allow to warm up. Disconnect
move mud, weeds, etc. DO NOT attempt to start fuel line. When engine starts to stall quickly spray
engine if sand has entered powerhead, as pow- Quicksilver Storage Seal into carburetor throat.
erhead will be severely damaged. Disassemble Continue to spray until engine dies from lack of
powerhead if necessary to clean components. fuel.
4. Remove spark plugs and get as much water as 4. Remove spark plugs and inject a 5 second spray
possible out of powerhead. Most water can be of Quicksilver Storage Seal around the inside of
eliminated by placing engine in a horizontal posi- each cylinder. Manually turn engine over several
tion (with spark plug holes down) and rotating times to distribute Storage Seal throughout cylin-
flywheel. ders. Reinstall spark plugs.
5. Pour alcohol into carburetor throat (alcohol will 5. If engine fuel filter appears to be contaminated,
absorb water). Again rotate flywheel. remove and replace.
6. Turn engine over and pour alcohol into spark plug 6. Drain and refill lower unit with Quicksilver Gear
openings and again rotate flywheel. Lube, as explained in on page 1-4.

1-6 - IMPORTANT INFORMATION 90-855906 JUNE 1997

7. Clean outboard thoroughly, including all accessi-
ble powerhead parts, and spray with Corrosion
and Rust Preventive.
8. Remove propeller. Apply Quicksilver Special
Lubricant 101, Anti-Corrosion Grease or 2-4-C
w/Teflon to propeller shaft and reinstall propeller.
Refer to “Propeller Installation”.
IMPORTANT: When storing outboard for the win-
ter, be sure that all water drain holes in gear hous-
ing are open and free so that all water will drain
out. If a speedometer is installed in the boat, dis-
connect the pickup tube and allow it to drain.
Reconnect the tube after draining. Trapped water
may freeze and expand, thus cracking gear hous-
ing and/or water pump housing. Check and refill
gear housing with Quicksilver Gear Lube before
storage to protect against possible water leak-
age into gear housing which is caused by loose
lubricant vent plug or loose grease fill plug. In-
spect gaskets under lubricant vent and fill plugs,
replacing any damaged gaskets, before reinstall-
ing plugs.
internal combustion engine produces, depends upon
the density of the air that it consumes and, in turn, this
How Weather Affects Engine Perfor- density is dependent upon the temperature of the air,
its barometric pressure and water vapor (or humidity)
mance content.
It is a known fact that weather conditions exert a pro- Accompanying this weather-inspired loss of power is
found effect on power output of internal combustion a second but more subtle loss. At rigging time in early
engines. Therefore, established horsepower ratings spring, the engine was equipped with a propeller that
refer to the power that the engine will produce at its allowed the engine to turn within its recommended
rated RPM under a specific combination of weather RPM range at full throttle. With summer weather and
conditions. the consequent drop in available horsepower, this
Corporations internationally have settled on adop- propeller will, in effect, become too large. Conse-
tion of I.S.O. (International Standards Organization) quently, the engine operates at less than its recom-
engine test standards, as set forth in I.S.O. 3046 mended RPM.
standardizing the computation of horsepower from Due to the horsepower/RPM characteristics of an
data obtained on the dynamometer, correcting all engine, this will result in further loss of horsepower at
values to the power that the engine will produce at the propeller with another decrease in boat speed.
sea level, at 30% relative humidity at 77° F (25° C) This secondary loss, however, can be regained by
temperature and a barometric pressure of 29.61 switching to a smaller pitch propeller that allows the
inches of mercury. engine to again run at recommended RPM.
Summer Conditions of high temperature, low baro- For boaters to realize optimum engine performance
metric pressure and high humidity all combine to re- under changing weather conditions, it is essential
duce the engine power. This, in turn, is reflected in that the engine have the proper propeller to allow it
decreased boat speeds – as much as 2 or 3 miles- to operate at or near the top end of the recommended
per-hour (3 or 5 Km per-hour) in some cases. (Refer maximum RPM range at wide-open-throttle with a
to previous chart.) Nothing will regain this speed for normal boat load.
the boater, but the coming of cool, dry weather.
Not only does this allow the engine to develop full
In pointing out the practical consequences of weath- power, but equally important is the fact that the
er effects, an engine--running on a hot, humid engine also will be operating in an RPM range that
summer day--may encounter a loss of as much as discourages damaging detonation. This, of course,
14% of the horsepower it would produce on a dry, enhances overall reliability and durability of the
brisk spring or fall day. The horsepower, that any engine.

90-855906 JUNE 1997 IMPORTANT INFORMATION - 1-7

Conditions Affecting Operation Detonation: Causes and Prevention
1. Proper positioning of the weight inside the boat Detonation in a 2-cycle engine somewhat resembles
(persons and gear) has a significant effect on the the “pinging” heard in an automobile engine. It can be
boat’s performance, for example: otherwise described as a tin-link “rattling” or “plink-
ing” sound.
a. Shifting weight to the rear (stern)
(1) Generally increases top speed.
(2) If in excess, can cause the boat to por-
poise.
a
(3) Can make the bow bounce excessively in
choppy water.
(4) Will increase the danger of the following
- wave splashing into the boat when com-
ing off plane.
b. Shifting weight to the front (bow)
a - Damaged Piston Resulting from Detonation
(1) Improves ease of planing off.
Detonation generally is thought of as spontaneous
(2) Generally improves rough water ride. ignition, but it is best described as a noisy explosion
(3) If excessive, can make the boat veer left in an unburned portion of the fuel/air charge after the
and right (bow steer). spark plug has fired. Detonation creates severe, un-
timely, shock waves in the engine, and these shock
2. Boat Bottom: For maximum speed, a boat
waves often find or create a weakness: The dome of
bottom should be nearly a flat plane where it
a piston, piston rings or piston ring lands, piston pin
contacts the water and particularly straight and
and roller bearings.
smooth in fore-and-aft direction.
While there are many causes for detonation in a
a. Hook: Exists when bottom is concave in fore-
2-cycle engine, emphasis is placed on those causes
and-aft direction when viewed from the side.
which are most common in marine 2-cycle applica-
When boat is planing, “hook” causes more lift
tion. A few, which are not commonly understood, are:
on bottom near transom and allows bow to
drop, thus greatly increasing wetted surface 1. Over-advanced ignition timing.
and reducing boat speed. “Hook” frequently 2. Use of low octane gasoline.
is caused by supporting boat too far ahead of
transom while hauling on a trailer or during 3. Propeller pitch too high (engine RPM below
storage. recommended maximum range).
b. Rocker: The reverse of hook and much less 4. Lean fuel mixture at or near wide-open-
common. “Rocker” exists if bottom is convex throttle.
in fore-and-aft direction when viewed from 5. Spark plugs (heat range too hot - incorrect
the side, and boat has strong tendency to por- reach - cross-firing).
poise.
6. Inadequate engine cooling (deteriorated
c. Surface Roughness: Moss, barnacles, etc., cooling system).
on boat or corrosion of outboard’s gear hous-
ing increase skin friction and cause speed 7. Combustion chamber/piston deposits (result
loss. Clean surfaces when necessary. in higher compression ratio).
3. Gear Housing: If unit is left in the water, marine Detonation usually can be prevented, provided that
vegetation may accumulate over a period of time 1) the engine is correctly set up and 2) diligent main-
in certain types of water. This growth must be re- tenance is applied to combat the detonation causes.
moved from unit before operation, as it may clog
the water inlet holes in the gear housing and
cause the engine to overheat.

1-8 - IMPORTANT INFORMATION 90-855906 JUNE 1997

Compression Check Serial Number Location
1. Remove spark plugs. The engine serial number (a) is located on the port
side of the clamp bracket and also on the mounting
2. Install compression gauge.
flange of the powerhead.
3. Hold throttle plate at W.O.T.
4. Crank engine thru at least 4 compression strokes
to obtain highest possible reading.
5. Check and record compression of each cylinder.
Variation of more than 15 psi (103.5 kPa)
between cylinders indicates that lower compres- a
sion cylinder is in some way defective, such as
worn or sticking piston rings and/or scored piston
and cylinder.
6. Compression check is important because an
engine with low or uneven compression cannot
be tuned successfully to give peak performance.
It is essential, therefore, that improper compres-
sion be corrected before proceeding with an
engine tune up.
7. Cylinder scoring: If powerhead shows any indica-
tion of overheating, such as discolored or
scorched paint, visually inspect cylinders for
scoring or other damage as outlined in Section 4
“Powerhead”.

90-855906 JUNE 1997 IMPORTANT INFORMATION - 1-9