Sewing guide

A complete guide to learning how to sew

Medidas. Ubicación de los moldes. Modificación de

sizes. Basic hand sewing techniques.
Machine stitching. Buttonholes, closures, collars, facings,
cuffs, sleeves, pockets, waists, etc.

Jesica Viano
 INDEX

NECESSARY MATERIALS…………………………………………………………………………3

MEASURES
SIZE MODIFICATION.............................................................8

Fabrics................................................................................................9

BASIC HAND SEWING TECHNIQUES……………………………………….16

MACHINE SEWING…………………………………………………………………………..17

OJALES

CLIPS AND PRESSURE CLIPS………………………………………………………………19

FOLDS………………………………………………………………………………………20

MANGAS............................................................22

CLOSURES……………………………………………………………………………………………..25

NECKS…………………………………………………………………………………………….27

VIEWS……………………………………………………………………………………………….30

FISTS……………………………………………………………………………………………….30

FLUTTERS AND GATHERS.............................................................32

POCKETS…………………………………………………………………………………………..32

FORCES…………………………………………………………………………………………..35

BELTS…………………………………………………………………………………………..36

2
MATERIALES NECESARIOS

Measuring tape
One and a half meters long and made of flexible material, it is used both for taking measurements and
to transfer them when making patterns. It is also advisable to have a long ruler for
trace patterns.

Marking soap or chalk

They are used to draw the outline of the pattern on the fabric. They are used in various colors since the
the stroke should stand out in the fabric. To prevent the line from being too thick, it is advisable to sharpen
the edge with a knife or the blade of the scissors.

Pins
They must be sharp-pointed and always very clean. If any are rusty, they must be
throw it away. For delicate fabrics, they sell very fine special pins. It is advisable to have a box.
with foam or a pad to pin them down and be able to grab them more easily.

Needles
There are two types, for hand sewing or for machine sewing. They need to be chosen carefully.
depending on the type of fabric we are going to sew.

The sewing needles by hand are numbered from 2 to 12, with number 2 being the thickest and the
of the 12 the finest. There are packs of assorted needles of various thicknesses that are the most
practical.

Sewing machine needles are also numbered according to their thicknesses, and similarly, they are
they sell packages in assorted packs.

You will also find special needles for elastic fabrics and for leather. If our fabric is
point, lycra or stretchy velvet, for example, do not try to sew it by machine with a needle
normal. Always use a special needle. Special attention must be paid to the part
superior of the sewing machine needles: some are completely cylindrical and others
they have a flat side. You need to buy one type or another depending on our machine
of sewing. Machines that use needles with a flat side cannot use the cylindrical ones.
Those that use cylindrical needles cannot use needles that have a flat side.

Scissors
It is advisable to have two pairs of scissors: a large one for cutting fabric and a smaller one for
cut buttonholes, threads, and work on the garment. Manicure scissors are useful for removing
Hikings. They must always be well sharpened.

3
 Thimbles
Thimbles are used to protect the ring finger of the hand that holds the needle, as it is with
that finger with which we must push the needle through the fabric. They are sold in various
sizes and materials. Although at first the thimble is more of a nuisance than a help, it is
It's convenient to get used to using it, as otherwise you will end up with your ring finger.
quite battered.

Threads
The basting thread is essential. Made of cotton, it is sold in different colors and is easy to use.
remove once the garment is sewn.

Sewing thread is sold in spools of different sizes. For fine garments, it is usually used the
silk thread and for embroidering buttonholes, the twisted one.

Always buy good quality threads to prevent the garment from unraveling.
unraveling with use when the thread breaks.

4
MEASURES
The measurement chart allows to locate each person in their respective size for tailoring.
a garment.

The most important thing is taking good measurements and the correct placement on the sizing chart.
They should be taken in underwear, with the body straight and with the usual footwear.

The first thing is to mark the waist by tying an elastic band or a ribbon, this serves as a guide for
take the other measurements. Remember that the centimeter should not be adjusted nor should there be too much left

slack.

MEASUREMENT TABLE

Women's sizes 38 40 42 44 46 48 50

A. Bust contour 80 84 88 92 96 100 105

B. Waist contour 60 62 64 68 72 76 80

C. Hip contour 82 86 90 96 100 105 110

D. Large front size 40 41 42 43 45 46 48

E. Wide back size 38 39 40 41 42 43 44

F. Bust height 23 24 25 26 27 28 29

G. Shoulder width 33 35 36 37 38 39 41

H. Chest width 30 32 34 35 36 38 40

I. Shoulder width 11.5 12 12.5 13 13.5 14 14.5

J. Cuello 33 34 35 36 37 39 40

Largo sleeve 57 58 58 59 59 60 61

L. Tiro 54 56.5 58 59.5 61 62.5 64

Mr. Puño 21 22 22 23 23 24 25

N. Hip height 21 23 24 24 25 26 26

O. Bust separation 17 18 18 19 19 20 20

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 Baby sizes (months) 3 6 9 12
A. Bust circumference 46 48 50 52
B. Waist contour 46 47 48 50
C. Hip circumference 48 50 52 54
D. Large size 17 18 19 20
E. Wide at the hip 7.5 8 8.5 9
F. Long to knee 19 21 23 25
G. Hombro 5 5.5 6 6.5
H. Sleeve length 21 23 25 27
I. Length of pants 32 36 38 42
J. Height 60 67 72 75

Kids' sizes (years) 2 4 6 8 10

K. Chest contour 54 58 62 66 70
L. Waist circumference 52 56 58 60 62
M. Hip circumference 56 60 64 70 74
N. Long front size 24 26 30 34 37
The wide back size 24 28 32 35 36
P. Shoulder width 22 24 28 32 35
Shoulder 7 8 9 10 11
R. Wide sleeve 28 34 40 44 48

Teen sizes 12 14 16 18

A. Bust circumference 72 76 80 84
B. Waist contour 58 62 66 70
C. Hip contour 76 80 84 88
D. Long front size 36 38 40 42
E. Large back size 34 36 38 40
F. Bust height 21 22 23 24
G. Shoulder width 30 32 33 34
H. Chest width 27 28 30 32
I. Shoulder width 10.5 11 11.5 12
J. Cuello 32 33 34 35
K. Long sleeve 52 54 56 58
L. Fist 16 16 18 18

6
HOW TO TAKE MEASUREMENTS

A. Bust circumference: measure the horizontal circumference passing through the

centimeter under the armpits and at the most prominent part
of the bust.
B. Waist circumference: horizontally, surround the waist
at the height where the elastic was placed, right where
the lower ribs end.
C. Hip circumference: measure the horizontal circumference at the
height of the buttocks at its most prominent point.
D. Length of front body: measure vertically from the
union of the shoulder with the neck to the waistline
passing by the bust.
E. Large back size: measure vertically from the junction
from the shoulder with the neck to the waistline.
F. Bust height: in a vertical position, from the union of
shoulder with the neck to the most prominent point of the bust.
G. Shoulder width: horizontally across the back at 6
cm below the shoulders and take the distance from armpit to
sisa.
H. Chest width: horizontally, over the chest of
sleeve to sleeve and 6 cm below the shoulders
I. Shoulder width: from the junction of the neck with the shoulder
until the end of this one.
J. Cuello: make a complete turn with the centimeter around
from the base of the neck at its junction with the body.
K. Sleeve length: with the arm slightly bent,
measure from the birth of the arm to the wrist,
passing through the elbow.
L. Tiro: vertically, measure from the center of the waist
front to the center of the lower back
passing through the crotch.
M. Punch: with a closed hand, measure the circumference at the height of
the knuckles.
N. Hip height: measure vertically and from the side,
from the waist to the most prominent part of the hip.
O. Bust separation: horizontally, measure the distance
What is there between the most prominent points of each breast.
Skirt length: for the basic pattern, the length is 50 cm
to then make the transformations we want. The
The desired length for our mold is measured from the waist.
Q. Pant leg length: for the base pattern, the length is 100.
cm and then we make the transformations on this. Measure
vertically from the waist.

7
SIZE MODIFICATION
To enlarge or reduce a size

Mark a vertical line in the center of the mold for expansion on the front and the back.
width, and two horizontal lines A and B (one below the armpit and the other at the hip level) for
lengthen. Take the measurement you want to enlarge in width, which should not be greater than 8 cm, and
divide it by two (one part in the front and another in the back). Then divide this by two.
new measure since it is working with half a mold.

MODIFICATION TO A LARGER SIZE Modification to a smaller size

Cut along the vertical line and separate the amount to be reduced, upwards and
molds applying the measurement obtained downwards on the horizontal lines and to
previously. Tape both sides, vertically. Draw a line
to maintain the shape. new about those measures. Make a fold
Once the width of the mold has been expanded, and secured with pins. Redraw the armhole and the
Make the horizontal cuts to proceed with the side.
to lengthen the garment. In this case, the total of
the measure to be prolonged will be divided into two
(number of horizontal lines). Then
distance the molds applying the measurement
obtained and secured with adhesive tape.
En las mangas se procede de igual forma,
marking a vertical line and a horizontal one
as shown in the drawing.
In the necks, the centimeters are added in
the center of the back for the pants
proceed in the same way as in the
forwards, but the horizontal lines to
mark will be:
The EI center between the waist and the hip
B To the size of a bermuda

8
Fabrics

Fabrics Characteristics Uses

Synthetic with a silk appearance, Lingerie, blouses,

made with acetate fiber threads dressed.
Acetate of cellulose. It does not shrink, does not fade, does not

it wrinkles.

Synthetic that resembles wool fabric. Replaces cloth of

Acrylics Sharp colors. natural wool anywhere
type of garment.

Made with wool fibers from coats, sweaters.

Alpaca
alpaca. Fine, silky, and lightweight fabric.

Goat wool, soft, shiny, hair Sweaters, linings, fabrics

rigid. raw. Material for
Angora
decoration and combination
(Mohair)
in dresses, hats,
tapestries.

Very fine linen or cotton. Pocket handkerchiefs,

Baptist
dresses, shirts, etc.

Silk fabric with raised embroidery Tapestry, curtains, suits.

with threads of metal or silk forming
Brocade drawings. There are brocades with rayon,
viscose and cotton, hence its texture and
thickness.

Smooth, silky, and very lightweight Sweaters and dresses for

Kashmir
lady.

Castor Smooth with silky shine. Fur coats.

Chali Made of wool, soft and very light. Tops and dresses for
ladies and children. Ties,
kimonos and sportswear.

Bleached cotton fabric for lingerie, shirts, etc.

Chambray
very fine.

Chiffon or Tulle Light and semi-transparent Blouses and shawls for

(Velcro, Gas of to use at sunset.
Silk

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 Thin and lightweight made of silk or cotton and According to its
other types of fabrics. With a thick appearance, in suits,
Crepe
rough and wrinkled. coats and dresses of
all kinds.

Somewhat thick cotton printed. Simple dresses for

Cretona field and beach, curtains and
home decorations.

Silk, cotton, or wool fabric, which tablecloths, curtains

Damascus
combine threads to form a rich mattress.
Damask
relief printing.

Natural silk with texture and shine; being

Dupioni of
wild silk wrinkles, however
silk
there lies its elegance.

Firm cotton fabric, similar to uniforms, clothes of

denim. With reinforced lines more work, covers, clothing
Drill
close and flat like the trench coat. sports and applications
industrial.

Dragon

Dry feet Anti-perspirant sportswear. Blouses, pants.

Fabric made of silk threads, Dresses of all kinds,

cotton, linen, gold or silver, twists or shawls, applications.
Lace
braided, mesh, tied or
patterned cutouts with various designs.

Made of fabric like velvet, but for stuffed animals, jackets.

Sweatshirt longer and thicker hair. Imitates the skin of
animals.

Composed of fibers arranged in industrial applications

Felt
all addresses and adhered to each other. and decorative.

Smooth, with the satin surface that Jackets, dresses

T-shirt almost nullifies the texture of the fabric. skirts, suits, overcoats,
Lanilla
sheets, pajamas.

Sharp finish, dense fabric, ladies' suits and

durable, wear-resistant. Difficult gentlemen, coats,
Raincoat
from ironing, it shines with use. raincoats, uniforms
and shirts for men.

Thin and transparent fabric made of silk Dresses, blouses,

Gasao
very loosely woven, with drape, some draping, ruffles and
muslin
threads form undulations. shawls, just like skirts

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 with a lot of flight.

Natural Panama type silk. It is very fine, skirts and dresses.

Cap but with a perfect drop, of texture
smooth to the touch.

Fine and lightweight natural silk fabric for women's blouses, dresses.
Georgette
it allows embroideries of different designs.

Thick, bulky, and consistent lace Bags and dresses of

Guipure or embroidery on tulle, with ribbons and with night, applications.
Valencian applications of gemstone, pearls or
crystal.

Similar to Gore-Tex, waterproof fabric jackets, parkas, clothing of

Ipora
that allows breathing. high mountain.

Rough and durable fabric made of tent threads for camping,

Lona pure cotton or mixed with polyester. structure covers
and beach chairs.

Denim Azul, café o gris oscuro, tejido de alta Pantalones, hats

(Drill of twist, for work clothes. Thick, uniforms, bed covers,
cotton or thin and raw blue. tapestries and sportswear.
of Vergara)

Natural thick silk with texture

Mikado
slightly granulated.

Fabric with a strong texture to the touch with

Moire or moiré drawings that form waves. It's more
stiffer than taffeta.

Cotton fabric, loosely woven, lightweight, Dresses, blouses.

Muslin
translucent and soft to the touch.

The resistant synthetic material for stockings, clothes interior

abrasion and action of chemicals. Easy for socks sweaters.
Nylon
to wash, with a shiny appearance and drying
fast.

Very fine, translucent cotton fabric. Collars, reinforcements, flowers.

Organza and something more rigid than the gauze. artificial hats,
(Organdy)
blouses, overcoats.

Woven threads of fine silk that Talle y mangas of

they form a delicate texture, almost dresses and blouses.
Organza
transparent. There is smooth opaque, shiny
and crystal.

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 Made with 100 cotton threads shirts, jackets
Oxford percent or mixed with polyester. skirts, summer tops
and sportswear.

Dense fabric and soft texture. Coats, covers of

Cloth
pool tables, poker tables.

Lightweight, soft, and shiny. Coats, suits

Hair of
jackets, blankets
Camel
carpets.

Poolside Uneven fabric that forms stars of Coats, pants

Cock's foot, four tips. jackets y suits
starred.) sports.

Lightweight fabric, does not shrink or stretch, Various uses

mold, moth, and abrasion resistant, depending on the yarn
Polyester Washable, it is not affected by sunlight or the one it is mixed with.
weather. Resilient a products
chemicals.

Synthetic silk made of polyester, dresses, blouses, suits

Pongee
low and medium weight. of summer.

Woven fabric of warp and weft (in the loom it is Shirts, aprons
a horizontal thread and a vertical one). It is sheets, etc.
Poplin firm, uniform color, fine, thin
and fresh; it may shrink a little without
affect the size or the fall of the garment

Usually made of different wool Pants, jackets,

Spike Point
qualities. coats y coats
Tweed
sports shoes.

Ultra fast drying. Clothes sports for

Quick Dry
exteriors.

Soft fabric, usually features women's underwear,

the lustrous face and the other dull. Coats, capes, dresses
Satin or Silk
factory in various colors, weights, wedding dresses, and hats.
qualities and rigidity.

Artificial silk, soft, accepts dyeing, all types of garments

Rayon tend a to shrink. Resists wearing.
Viscose temperatures highs, preparations and
chemicals.

Made with ties between each garment for heavy wear,

Rip Stop
section. Resistant to abrasion and cracks. military uniforms.

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 Glossy cotton or linen. Vestidos, ropa interior
Satin
scarves, pajamas,
sportswear.

It imitates wild silk in the knots of

Shantung the fabric. It is a more economical cloth
its reverse is brilliant.

Screen harsh resistant Silk fabric lightweight, for

Seda Natural uneven. dresses. Heavy silk,
You are right for shelters, suits and
sets.

Thin synthetic silk fabric very Clothing to wear it to

Taffeta thick and with a shiny surface. sunset; suits, coats,
blouses, dresses.

Delicate fabric, water-resistant and Formal clothing, drapes

Velvet wrinkles. It is dry cleaned and should be upholstered.
(Velvet) ironing on a board. The velvets
the fine ones are made of 100% cotton.

Fine fabric made of silk, cotton or wedding veils and skirts

Tul
artificial fiber. vaporous.

Wool fabric with appearance Dresses, skirts, jackets,

Tweed
voluminous and strong. etc.

Resistant the shrinking. If you wear of to dress

Wool renew with humidity. sheets clothes of
winter.

Fabric similar to plush, from different upholstery. curtains,

Velur
thickening. Synthetic yarn for dresses.
(Velvet)
polyester, cotton or similar.

THE WIDTH OF THE FABRICS

The fabrics that we can normally find in stores usually have different
width measurements, which are usually standardized.

The SIMPLE fabrics measure about 80 to 90 centimeters from side to side. There are fabrics that measure the
double the previous ones, which are called DOUBLE WIDTH. They usually measure 1.50 m or
1.60 m.

Curtain or upholstery fabrics have a special width that varies depending on the piece.
the most common curtains are 2.80 m.

13
THE FALL OF THE FABRICS
Fabrics are not all the same, some are stiff like jeans and others are
flow like water. A fabric with good drape is flexible and falls softly. A rigid fabric
it will form creases and will pile up badly. This quality is very important: layers,
Dresses, shirts, and garments with volume should be made from fabrics with good drape.
so that they feel good. In case of doubt, the best solution is to ask the seller, who is the
who understands fabrics. He will perfectly advise us on the type of fabric that
we need.

LOCATION OF THE MOLDS ON THE FABRIC

First, we must consider respecting the direction of the drawing on printed fabrics. From the
same form, in striped fabrics, we must match them at the seams. In pile fabrics,
Like velvet, we must respect the sense and direction of the hair. Before cutting, the
fabrics must be washed and ironed to prevent them from
shrink.

CUT TO THE THREAD

The thread of the fabric is made up of the threads of
parallel threads to the edge. The direction of the thread is the
reference for correctly placing the mold on
the fabric. The exact meaning of the thread is found
folding the fabric in half its width,
facing edge to edge.

Bias Cut
The mold is placed at a 45° angle with respect to the edge, whether it is

with the fabric open or folded.

14
 1° CALCULATE THE MOLD AND HOLD IT WITH PINS

2° MARK ON THE BACK OF THE FABRIC. IT CAN BE DONE WITH CHALK OR A PIECE OF
WHITE SOAP. FIX THE PIECES WITH PINS.

3° CUTTING LEAVING SEAM ALLOWANCE. TO MARK FOLDS OR

TABLES MAKE SMALL MARKS AT THE SAME HEIGHT ON THEM
SEAM ALLOWANCE.

RIGHT AND CONTRARIGHT

In many explanations for cutting any piece, you will find the expression: "place the
pattern on the double fabric, right side against right side." It is something that makes sense. Generally
the patterns come cut in half: half front, half back, half skirt... The
mangas come whole, but we only have one pattern and we have two arms. Since there is
to cut the other half of the piece exactly
It is easier to place the fabric double and cut.
both at the same time (this ensures our equality)
to cut one by one.

Whenever we are going to cut a piece, we must place the fabric with the reverse side up, so that when
draw the pattern with the marking soap, the marks should not be visible later. If the fabric should be doubled,
the two rights will be 'faced'. 'To face' is a term that means that, to place the two
equal faces of a piece against each other.

Once the pattern is cut and without separating the fabrics, we will pass some enlargements along the line that
we have drawn according to the pattern.

Sometimes it is difficult to tell which side of a fabric is the right side at first glance. At times it is simple.
matter of taste (both sides can serve equally). A small trick is to pay attention to the
tiny holes that are on the edges. On one side the fabric will be smooth and they won't be noticeable when
Touch, but on the other side, the little holes feel rough. That side is the right one.

It is important to pay attention to this detail as it is very important. Although both sides
they may seem identical, the brightness can change slightly and that is very noticeable when the garment
It's finished.

For greater security, mark one of the sides with a line to indicate the wrong side.
Reverse against reverse is exactly the opposite: to place the back side of the fabrics one.
against the other.

15
BASIC HAND SEWING TECHNIQUES

STRAIGHTBASTINGSTITCH HEM STITCH POINT GLOVE

It is sewn from right to left, Once the hem is basted, From left to right it is
taking both fabrics the stitch
y is made with slanted stitches and
alternating long stitches with a right diagonal short ones that takea two or three
short. It is used to join two left. By the reverse of the fabric, threads from the edge of the fabric. It is
pieces in a provisional shape until bent, some threads are taken for the overlocking of
definitive sewing. When the fabric of the textile and then the edge of it or for the
stitches are made from some of the fabric of the garment, joining two types of fabric.
size is referred to as 'hem'; taking into account that it does not
it is used to see the stitches on the side
wrinkles. right.

WEAK POINT HOUNDSTOOTH POINT FESTOON STITCH

It is done from left to right. It is done from the left. a

The needle is inserted straight; the needle is inserted
horizontal taking a few threads in the fabric at 1/2 cm from the edge (or
from the fabric to prevent the cut from being seen, if it is a buttonhole), leaving
of the right. Then in shape the thread of the stitch underneath
The needle is introduced diagonally.
It is carried out on the chalk line. In the fabric below, as it was made, it is used to give finishing.
what the mold was traced with, previously, forming at the edge of the fabric, for loops
right a left, with stitches that intertwine. They yojales.
basting stitches every 1/2 cm used for support of views or
of distance leaving
y the hem of lined garments.
loose stitch in a loop style.
Then the two fabrics are separated,
tightening the loose stitches. For
last, they are cut in half
the stretched threads.
This point is used to mark
the drawing of the mold in both
fabrics y to differentiate the
right of these.

16
MACHINE SEWING

SURFING DOUBLE-FACE STITCHING ROULETTE

It is done by machine with a stitch It is done with the machine

zigzag, on the edge of the fabric well-packed zigzag stitch,
on the inner seams. Of rolling the edge a few
this way the fabric is prevented from millimeters backwards. In
it unravels and allows for a the case of very fine fabrics
good finishing on the garment. like the gauze, once
In the case of delicate fabrics he sewed it with
it can be done by hand with the hem stitch.
point glove.
It is used for edges of
flared or hems.

Face the fabrics to the wrong side OVERLOCK

separating its edges 15 a
millimeters apart. Se utiliza en telas de punto ya
that offers a greater
What with machine topstitching. Open elasticity. In case of
the fabrics and roll over the edge your machine does not have this
outstanding about the sewing. type of sewing, replace it
for the zigzag stitch for
Board. Matter of law and with joints of pieces. In
hem the edge of the fabric, hems, I used a roulotte.
folding the edge inward.

FRENCH SEWING

Place the fabrics facing each other and sew with a machine overlock stitch. Trim the excess from the edge and leave
turn inside out. With right side against right side, I sewed a line 1/2 cm from the edge.

17
OJALES
MILITARY OJAL
1. Mark the width of the buttonhole with chalk and sew a basting stitch over it.
this.
Cut a rectangular piece of fabric on the bias the length of the buttonhole plus 3
cm (leave an extra 1 1/2 cm at each end), to form the
live. Place it right against right, matching
the center of the rectangle with the basting. Baste. Pass
around the brand a machine stitch in the shape of
rectangle.
3. Remove the basting and cut the two layers of fabric (piping and garment)
through the center and finish the angles diagonally as indicated
the drawing.
4. Pass the thread through the buttonhole to the back and iron. Fold each
one of the live ones so that the fold matches with the
Buttonhole center. Machine stitch over the seam.
alive.
5. On the reverse side, finish the ends of the buttonhole and secure the edge with
hounds tooth stitches.
6. Fold the garment over the buttonholes and baste it.
Mark the eyelet and pin the ends.
Cut the fabric of the view, following the pins, and make some
notches at the corners. Turn the edges of the cut inwards
the interior and item with point glove, without it being noticeable on the side
of the law.

Embroidered OJAL
1. Mark the length of the buttonhole with a basting stitch. Make the opening and
surfboard with glove point. Board.
2. Start to make the blanket stitch with embroidery thread (see page 8)
well packed from one end. Please note that the thread is
long enough to complete the entire outline of the eyelet. At
reach the other end (meeting point with the button), do the
stitches forming a semicircle.
3. The eyelet closure consists of making a stitch of three points
vertical and on them, others horizontal; thus a seam is formed
of security.

CLIPS
Mark with pins, and on the edge of the fabric, the beginning and the end
from the clip. Pass the needle through the first stitch, leave a loose stitch
(as wide as the button), and insert the needle at the point
where the loop ends. Remove the needle and return to the point of
start, leaving the same slack in the stitch. In this way
it will form a loop of 2 threads. Cover the loop with blanket stitches,
well together, from left to right and a finish at the end.

18
Hooks
Place the hook over the fabric, so that its end does not exceed the edge of the material.
What for the rings, taking a few threads of the fabric to avoid it being noticeable from the right, and
hold the straight end of the hook with some stitches. Place the complementary piece.
dentro del gancho y superponga la tela, buscando la mejor ubicación. Cosa por los anillos.

PRESSURE BROOCH
Mark the place where to position it and make small stitches, taking a few threads from the fabric.
so that it does not transfer to the right of this. Once sewn, overlay the fabric where it will go.
complementary brooch, and mark the location with a pin. Thing.

19
doubles

Straight Folds
To make the hems and edges of the garments, they must be folded to the exact measurement first, and
This can pose a serious problem, especially when it comes to finishing the edge of the fabric.
so that it remains hidden.

The best system is to help each other with the iron if the fabric allows it (velvet and corduroy do not)
Never iron). For this, we place the edge of the fabric on the ironing board and
we iron a small fold of less than one centimeter inwards of the garment,
in a way that the brand is noticeable.

Once the entire edge is pressed, another fold is made a little larger (2 or 3
centimeters) that will hide the edge of the fabric. We will hold it in place with pins as we
let's go ironing.

We already have the hem ready to baste and sew with a side stitch or a
stitching.

If what we are preparing is a view, the second fold should be wider, about
6 or 7 centimeters, so that when the garment is opened it looks nicer.

Be careful with the temperature of the iron. There are synthetic fabrics that melt if it is too hot.
too hot. Always test on a piece of fabric that is not useful.

If the fabric is stubborn and doesn't hold the crease, place a damp cotton cloth.
between the iron and the fabric. This helps to create a mark.

Curved folds
Some garments, such as capes and bias-cut skirts, have a hem cut in a curved shape, and
they must be sewn differently.

The first thing to do is to trim the hem.

with care, removing all the little threads and steps
that has. It should result in a smooth curve without
teeth (cutting leaving a base of about two
centimeters). Then, overlock with some stitches.
small ones always using thread of the color of the
fabric.

The correct system for sewing a curved hem is this:

The hem is stitched one centimeter from the edge to the

appropriate measure and makes a gather along the edge and is
make a very small gather. The garment is basted with
Be careful and iron using a damp cloth.

20
between the fabric and the iron. In this way, the steam will shrink the fabric and the pleat will disappear.

If the fabric is thin, it is sewn with a hidden stitch. If it is thick, with a houndstooth stitch.

When the garment is not lined but the hem is going to

See, like in the layers, you can hang a bias tape.
about the overlock edge, so that when it opens
it turned out nicer.

Now let's look at the fastest system:

With the iron, do a test on a piece of fabric

that it is not suitable for checking the temperature and if the fabric can be ironed.

If you can iron, make a very small fold in the fabric (like half a centimeter) and
iron all the hem. Some wrinkles will be marked in the fold, but since we are in a hurry...

Fold the bass back over itself, trying to make it as small and even as possible.
possible and iron again, then holding it with pins. There should be no bumps or
nothing similar.

Baste the hem and sew it by hand or machine. Remove the basting stitches and iron it again.

This system does not work for velvet, nor for fabrics that cannot be ironed, nor for textiles.
thick.

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MANGAS
Putting on the sleeves can be something complicated and frustrating, so ideally it would be good to have
expert help. If that is not possible... well, we will do what we can. The main thing is to keep
calmness and, above all, doing it in time. Last-minute rush is not acceptable here.

Read the instructions a couple of times carefully before starting and mark the points.
important. The sleeves are the most important touch of a garment. They require patience and
Be careful. If necessary, baste them as many times as needed until they look good.

To cut the sleeves, we will use a modern one-piece pattern. If the sleeve is short.
it doesn't matter, it stretches by hand.

HOW TO MOUNT A SLEEVE

Once the pattern is cut, we must test how it looks. The parts are joined.
Of the pattern, they join with zeal and we introduce the arm into it. Is it too much?
corto o demasiado largo? ¿Nos gusta la forma que tiene o quedaría mejor
any other model?

Any modification to the sleeve design needs to be done now, in the

boss.

You will have to consider that the width of the fabric will determine the length of the
manga in some models. If the double-width fabric usually measures
1.50 m from side to side, our sleeve can measure, at most, about 75 cm in length. If the
If you want longer ones, you should use curtain fabric, which is wider, or make the sleeves.
in two pieces, or choose another model.

CUT OF THE SLEEVES

The pattern is placed on the double fabric, right side to right side. The center line of the pattern
it must remain parallel to the edge of the fabric. This is very important, since if the sleeve is cut
tightly, then very ugly wrinkles will form.

When it is well placed, the pattern is secured with

pins and a marking soap are used to draw the
contour and cut, leaving one and a half centimeters
around for the sewing (a little more if the fabric is
very fine and frays easily). In the part of
down, leave 5 or 6 centimeters for the hem of the
manga.

Now that we have cut the sleeves and without removing them
the pattern still pinches the fabric where it is
little stitch, and a small triangle is cut in the seam, making
a brand that will represent the boss's picket. The
Pickets are essential, don't forget about them.

22
A is joined with A' and B with B' with pins and the sleeve is basted on the wrong side. Then it is turned inside out.
of the law.

As the top of the sleeve is usually larger than the armhole,

We must make two pleats, parallel and separated by half a centimeter.
from point R to point R', to adjust the top part of the sleeve to the
size of the armhole. The curl should be small and evenly distributed.
evenly.

Let's put the right sleeve on first. For that, the body of the
the garment must be fitted, tailored, machine stitched, and ironed with
the open seams.

The garment is taken and turned inside out (with the seams facing
outside). The sleeve, from the right side, is placed inside and the part is taken out.
upper part of the sleeve through the armhole, as it appears in
the drawing. If it's not clear, take a shirt or a dress, return it
from the reverse and tuck the sleeve inside to understand how it is
You must put on the sleeve.

The sleeve is pinned at the top and bottom (green points) of

this way: Above, the upper central hook of the sleeve, which
mark the center, hold it with the shoulder seam. Below, the
seam of the sleeve against the side seam)
The pins are placed one centimeter from the edge.
that we have stopped sewing.

Now, they put a patch of the sleeve against the patch.

of the dress and is secured with pins that will be placed
perpendicular to the edge. The curl is divided with
help from a pin and more pins are placed,
separated from each other by two centimeters.

The pucker should not be noticeable, as its purpose was to adjust the sleeve to the armhole. Although it may be difficult.

barbarity it is necessary to cut the curl and not let it show. To have an example

23
how the sleeve should look, take a shirt or a
jacket and look carefully at how the sleeves are arranged.

I suppose that by now the vests have started to

to become a good idea... Don't despair.

Slowly and calmly, because the result will be worth it.

Once the sleeve is pinned, it is basted.

quickly to a centimeter from the edge. Start with the seam
from the shoulder forward, to the side seam. And then,
another stitch from the shoulder at the back to the side seam. That way you won't have to
dismantle the whole sleeve if one side is wrong.

If the sleeve gather creates folds when basting, spread them out a little with your finger.

Once the sleeve is mounted, you should try on the dress.

Here you have a list of small flaws and how to correct them:

The sleeve is down over the arm: Put a pin in the right place of the seam
shoulder as a mark and remount the sleeve starting from that mark.

The sleeve goes inside the shoulder: mount it a little more towards the outside.

The armhole is very small and the sleeve is tight in the armpit: cut the armhole a little on the side.
take it apart and reassemble.

The sleeve pulls you in a strange way from below when you raise your arms, as if it were
small or something like that. Cut a small diamond-shaped piece and place it between the armpit and the
manga, as it appears in the drawing. The diamond should be small and should not be seen when it
he has his arm down.

24
CLOSURES

WITH TAB
1. Fold the margins of the opening where the closure will go and hold with pins. Sew a
baste as a reference ½ cm from one of the edges and 1 cm from the other (this is the one that
will form the tab). Panel. Below the opening place the closure, which must be
to be located 1 cm below the waistband. The zipper will remain free.
Climb on the edge.

With the closure closed, place the other side of the opening (the one that remains as a tab)
about the closure, so that the zipper is completely covered. Baste
taking as a guide the basting stitch at 1 cm that you made in point 1.

3. Open the closure and sew by machine with a topstitch.

WITH WALLET
Generally, the pocket is located on the left side of the garment.

1. Facing the rights, place the closed zipper on the edge where it is to be located.
the wallet, 1 cm below the waistline and baste. Stitch with a topstitch to
machine ½ cm away from the teeth of the closure. For this, there is a closure foot.
that makes our work easier. Turn it inside out and iron.

25
 2. Fold the wallet in half along its width and place it under the sewn closure at
the point 1, with the fold facing outwards. Baste and stitch with a machine running stitch over the
edge.

3. Turn the wallet inside out. Overlay the other side of the opening (tab)
about the closure, hiding the stitching. Pin it in place. Turn it inside out and
Highlight on the view. Thing. Make a double stitch on the right.

INVISIBLE CLOSURE
1. Surf the seam allowances. Baste to mark where the zipper will go.
two sides of the garment. Open the zipper and place it in the opening facing the
rights and matching the teeth of the zipper with the basting stitch. Hold
with pins and basting. Turn the teeth of the zipper to the opposite side of the
open it and hold it with the machine foot. Do it this way by performing the
stitching next to the teeth of the zipper.

2. Proceed in the same way to join the other side of the closure.

26
NECKS

Shirt collar
1. Face the two neck flaps right sides together. Baste and stitch with a topstitch, leaving
open the section that is joined to the neckline. Cut through the angles. Turn it towards the
iron, stitch and overcast the edge.

2. Place the right side of the lower neck facing the right side of the garment. Secure the
collar to the neckline with pins, aligning the center of the back. Baste and sew.
Make some notches along the neckline.

3. Press the seams with the notches facing inward towards the neck. Overlap the
top of the neck to the seams and sew with topstitching folding the edge towards
inside.

27
WITH STRIP
This collar has two pieces: the band and the collar, which is made in the same way as
the shirt collar. Once the collar has been made as explained above, proceed
in the following way.

1. Face the two strips for the rights and place the neck between them, making
match the references. Stitch and thing all the pieces, with finishing stitch up to the
ends of the strip.

2. Turn to the right and press. Baste and stitch to the garment, in the same way as
he sewed the shirt collar.

REDONDO

1. Face both neck flaps for the rights. Baste and stitch with a running stitch.
the outer edge. Make some notches and turn the collar to the right side. Iron.

28
 2. Attach the collar to the garment in the same way you did with the shirt and sew.
placing a bias over the seam.

WITH FLAP
1. Finish the neckline of the garment according to the references. Overlock the edges and the hem.
exterior view. Place the view over the front, facing the rights.
Lift and thing at the front center and neckline (taking the neck). In the neckline of the
back, only the part that is in contact with the garment.

2. Turn it inside out and press. Sew the end of the view to the shoulder seam.
with glove stitch. Thing the edge of the neck at the back with glove stitch, folding
the inward margin.

29
VIEWS
1. Assemble the views by sewing at their ends. Iron and overlock the outer edges.
Baste the garment with tacking stitch facing the right sides. Sew with a machine basting stitch.
by the edge.

2. Turn it inside out, baste and stitch.

3. Finish the outer edge with a hem stitch or machine, according to what is indicated by the
explanations of the model. Remove the basting.

FISTS
ASSEMBLY AND INSTALLATION

1. After placing the interfacing (if the model requires it), fold the cuff along the line of
reference, facing the rights, and thing by the extremes.

30
 2. Place the cuff on the garment, facing the right sides, positioning it from the
opening. Hilvane and thing.

Turn it inside out, baste and sew the inner edge with a running stitch folding it
margin inward.

OPENING OF SLEEVE
1. Place the opening view over this, facing the rights. Sew around.
from the cutting line. Make the cut along the line.

[Link] la vista hacia el revés. Hilvane y planche. Cosa el borde exterior de la vista con
stitching, folding the edges inward.

31
FLUTTERS AND GATHERS

STRAIGHT FLIGHT
1. Run a wide stitch through a sewing machine, two cm from the edge of the fabric. If it
If preferred, you can use the whip stitch to make the basting. Gather to size.
desired.

2. Sew a basting stitch over the gathered fabric to hold it in place.

Curved flight
Prepare the gathering of the ruffle as explained earlier. Place the ruffle over the
garment, held with pins. Baste and thing. It is used for collars and necklines.

POCKETS

WITH MILITARY EYELET

1. Make a military buttonhole of the size of the pocket you want.

32
 2. Facing the rights, thread and thing to the live inferior the shortest pocket background,
and the other background to the upper live. Stitch around the contours of the backgrounds.

3. Thing closing the pockets' funds. Across the upper edge, stitch legs of
rooster

BUTTONHOLE POCKET WITH A FLAP

1. Make the pocket cut according to the reference of the pattern. Fold the top edge of the
opening and the edges towards the inside and baste. Place the pocket lining by
behind the opening according to the references, facing the right side of the background with the
reverse of the garment. Baste and sew the right side along the upper edge of the opening.

2. Fold the pocket lining, sewn at point 1, upwards so that the opening
I became free. I placed the other pocket lining (the shorter one) over the lower edge of
the opening, facing the rights. Basting and stuff along the edge of the opening.

33
 3. Pass through the opening and turn the pocket lining inside out. Fold along the line of
reference, forming the tab. Make a small stitch around the opening. Of
reverse, close the pockets.

IN THE CUT
1. Place the cut pocket lining over the opening of the garment, right side against
right. Stitch and thing by the curve. Make some notches to facilitate bending. Give
turn the pocket lining inside out, press and machine stitch from the right side
on the edge.

2. Right against right, place the entire pocket lining underneath the other lining.
Sew on the top edge and on the side with a baste stitch. On the reverse side, stitch all around.
from the funds closing the pocket.

34
INNER POCKET
1. Open the seams where the opening is and machine-reinforce the ends.
Sew the pocket bags along the seams, facing the right sides.

2. Make a cut on the seam, 3 cm away from the ends, and overlock. Turn it inside out.
the pockets towards the front. Baste and close the pockets along the edge of
the edges. Surf the edges and remove the basting.

FORCES
An option that looks very nice is the tucks that can be added to the pockets.
like any garment. To make them, we must match the references of the
ends of the pleats, facing reverse against reverse, so that the fold remains of the
right side of the fabric. Item on the right side, with machine basting along the edge of the fold.

35
BELTS

WITH A VIEW
1. From the back, thing on one side the views of the waist. In front on the
rights the view on the garment. Baste and thing with machine topstitching along the edge.
If necessary, sew the closure.

[Link] the view inside out and iron. Stitch with topstitching, folding the edge towards
inside or well overlock the edge and secure with a few stitches at the side seams,
According to what the model explanation indicates.

WITH BELT
1. For the reverse side, fuse both waistlines with fusible interfacing (if you have it), on the side opposite to
the opening. Similarly, the waistbands without interfacing. Facing the rights,
open the seams and
board.

2. Align the rights of the pants with the waist (when it has interfacing). Baste.
and leaving the left side open (according to the drawing).

36
3. Lift and close the zipper. Turn the waist inside out.

4. On the reverse side, machine stitch along the lower edge, folding the margin inwards.
inside.

37